• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

1980 gs1100lt valves

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Hey all I'm getting ready to do my valves on my bike and do a complete cleaning of the carbs. I dont have a book on this thing yet and was wondering if any of you knew what the ranges are for valve clearances and what is the ideal range that they should be in.
 
they make a handy dandy feeler guage (single) with one size on one end and a differant on the other.
these work great becuase of the angle and size of the tool.
i believe that if a .003 will go and a .007 wont go...
they are not worth cracking lose..
sometimes a person just makes them worse.
no reason to measure in mm...
kpark,
do you still need that left control?
i will check today.
also,
i have these cool feeler guages.
 
Terry .. are my numbers not correct ?

they make a handy dandy feeler guage (single) with one size on one end and a differant on the other.
these work great becuase of the angle and size of the tool.
i believe that if a .003 will go and a .007 wont go...
they are not worth cracking lose..
sometimes a person just makes them worse.
no reason to measure in mm...
kpark,
do you still need that left control?
i will check today.
also,
i have these cool feeler guages.
 
Terry .. are my numbers not correct ?


im sure the information you gave is correct mike.
i have noticed people around here like to do things as per OEM suzuki spec.
nothing wrong with that but i use american sized feeler guages and i recommended numbers ive used and had good luck with.
at times those little jam nuts like to get buggered from dicking with them to much..
how do i know???
hmmmmm...live and learn.:cool:
 
so experience speaks to the noob with the manual :oops:

im sure the information you gave is correct mike.
i have noticed people around here like to do things as per OEM suzuki spec.
nothing wrong with that but i use american sized feeler guages and i recommended numbers ive used and had good luck with.
at times those little jam nuts like to get buggered from dicking with them to much..
how do i know???
hmmmmm...live and learn.:cool:
 
Also Rob, it MUST be dead cold to get accurate measurements...this means, IMO, the bike must not have been run in the last 12 or more hours..
 
Also Rob, it MUST be dead cold to get accurate measurements...this means, IMO, the bike must not have been run in the last 12 or more hours..

how in the hell can you post to this message board and talk on the phone at the same time??????????:eek:
 
With forked rocker valve adjustment the key thing is to make sure both valves sharing the rocker have the exact same clearance. Differences between the valves cause the forked rockers to twist which can cause cam and rocker wear. I suggest using two feeler gauges at the same time and tweak the clearances until you have the same amount of drag on each feeler. Takes a fair bit of time and touch to do the job right so don't rush things. My opinion is that doing the valves properly like this is a royal pain in the AS$. I'll take shims thank you very much.
 
With forked rocker valve adjustment the key thing is to make sure both valves sharing the rocker have the exact same clearance. Differences between the valves cause the forked rockers to twist which can cause cam and rocker wear. I suggest using two feeler gauges at the same time and tweak the clearances until you have the same amount of drag on each feeler. Takes a fair bit of time and touch to do the job right so don't rush things. My opinion is that doing the valves properly like this is a royal pain in the AS$. I'll take shims thank you very much.
C'mon Ed. These valve adjustments are easy peasy.
 
With forked rocker valve adjustment the key thing is to make sure both valves sharing the rocker have the exact same clearance. Differences between the valves cause the forked rockers to twist which can cause cam and rocker wear. I suggest using two feeler gauges at the same time and tweak the clearances until you have the same amount of drag on each feeler. Takes a fair bit of time and touch to do the job right so don't rush things. My opinion is that doing the valves properly like this is a royal pain in the AS$. I'll take shims thank you very much.


I've thought about your method and obviously, it will work fine.
However, I have had and read various factory service menuals and on
the off chance that I may have missed this requirement, reread the manual for my Bandit. It makes no mention of using two feeler guages.
Also, I ajusted the valves (screw adjuster type) at 24k miles and knew exactly what I set intake and exhaust to. This last valve adjustment at 33k miles, all my valves were precisely on the previous settings. No adjustments were needed. I do not feel the amount of force exerted on a rocker by a feeler guage is significant enough to cause any inaccuracy due to setting the clearances with a single feeler guage. When I set my exhaust valves and with two fingers, on every cylinder, .008 wil go and .009 will not, thats as good as its going to get.

Earl
 
The shims are easy, once you have the shims...

One of my old cars with rocker arms has adjustment bolts with interference fit threads and no lock nuts. It stays where you put it, so you don't have to guess how much it will change when you tighten the lock nut. Lighter too, with no lock nut.

With forked rocker valve adjustment the key thing is to make sure both valves sharing the rocker have the exact same clearance. Differences between the valves cause the forked rockers to twist which can cause cam and rocker wear. I suggest using two feeler gauges at the same time and tweak the clearances until you have the same amount of drag on each feeler. Takes a fair bit of time and touch to do the job right so don't rush things. My opinion is that doing the valves properly like this is a royal pain in the AS$. I'll take shims thank you very much.
 
Back
Top