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1980 GS450 Carb sync

  • Thread starter Thread starter apopleptic
  • Start date Start date
A

apopleptic

Guest
Hello, I am working on my GS450 and am looking to sync the carbs.
The issue I am running into is that the instructions in the repair manual say to turn the air screw, but it says that in 1980 there was no air adjustment screw and when I look at the location noted in the diagram there is just a small pinhole on both carbs and neither has a screw.
Can anyone please shed some light on this?
Thank you.
 
Welcome to the site. I would bet those are plugs covering the mixture screws mandated by the EPA so you couldn't mess with them. They can and should be removed. Is this bike new to you? Have you recently cleaned the carbs?

Basscliff will come by later with the official welcome but in the meantime, why not put your bike info in the signature block and your location in your profile. Plus, we'd love to see some pictures when possible.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. apopleptic,

You just might want to clean those carbs properly and install a new set of O-rings. There is a "how to" guide on my little website.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed. I will put you on my prayer list.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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cowboyup3371 said:
Welcome to the site. I would bet those are plugs covering the mixture screws mandated by the EPA so you couldn't mess with them. They can and should be removed. Is this bike new to you? Have you recently cleaned the carbs?
Click to expand...

is there some trick to remove these plugs without damage?

Thanks for the welcome, I have had the bike about three years and its my first bike.
Pretty much each year I have one issue or another that prevented me from riding it much without some working on it. I've probably only put about 300 miles on the bike since picking it up.

I have had the carbs all apart and they are pretty much spotless inside. no dry rot or anything anywhere except the fuel line which I replaced.

FWIW, I've been trying to keep this repair budget down as low as possible. so far my only major replacement was the igniter and the rear tire.
I'll upload pics once I get some current ones.
 
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Go to Basscliff's page and open up the carb rebuild tutorial from Nessism in there. It will explain all that is good with fixing them up to include how to remove that cap. Don't take any shortcuts or you'll be doing the whole thing all over again...TRUST US on this.
 
good info in that tutorial, almost exactly what i thought would need to be done to remove the plug.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again
 
Hi,

On my little website there is a tutorial specific to the 450 carbs. But Mr. Nessism's guide is pretty much all-inclusive in its scope. There's also a guide on how to post pictures to the forum. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I looked through both tutorials and have removed that cap as the instructions indicated. seemed like there was a little bit of funk underneath one of the caps and I wonder if thats whats gumming up. Tomorrow I'll see if I can follow through all the steps in the rebuild, most steps have already been done, so I get what was said about reading the instructions beforehand.
so far prior to this I've gotten the bike started, idling, and running well enought to ride around with no real issues on short local trips, whats I've noticed is that once the RPMs get to about 5K the bike hesitates and then runs choppy and the RPMs wont really go beyond 7K.
My goal is to have this bike ready for a cross country ride in the next month or so, so expect alot more silly questions in the next few weeks!
 
Welcome to the forums! Seems you're already in good hands here, but let me just share one more link with you that is in amongst all the awesome goodness that is BassCliff's site:

http://www.cycleorings.com/

Go there and get the complete combo kit for the 450 carbs, you won't regret it.
 
pete said:
Welcome to the forums! Seems you're already in good hands here, but let me just share one more link with you that is in amongst all the awesome goodness that is BassCliff's site:

http://www.cycleorings.com/

Go there and get the complete combo kit for the 450 carbs, you won't regret it.
Click to expand...


I did as suggested, even though I'm pretty sure the intake o-rings are good, I bet the rest of them aren't.
I'll keep everyone posted on how this turns out, or if I have any other questions on this topic. Mean time I will go bother you all in a new thread :D
 
is there a trick to get the pilot air screw out? I have unscrewed both all the way but it does not want to come out of the hole.


EDIT: I was able to remove one of these using a drop of hot melt glue on the end of the screwdriver. the other one is still stuck in there
 
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The O rings tend to stop them coming out that last mm or two, so I ended up using a small jewellers flat head to sort of lever it out.
 
pete said:
The O rings tend to stop them coming out that last mm or two, so I ended up using a small jewellers flat head to sort of lever it out.
Click to expand...

This is what did it, what a pain in the butt...

I will say that the inside of these carbs is spotless. You could eat off of it, if you eat gasoline.
 
So he cleaned them, but didn't replace the O rings? That's insane... why would you go to all that trouble and not replace them? Bizarre...
 
last time I took them aparts was last saeson. the o-rings weren't broken or anything so I just examined and reassembled. It wasn't what I would call a proper rebuild, more a checkup. the rebuild happens now that I find there is a hidden part (air adjustment screw) that has never seen the light of day.
 
All good, my apologies... too many carb threads! :o

I was actually thinking of JShapiro's issue when I said that...
 
Ok, small update here as I continue waiting for some parts for the carbs, specifically o-rings which are on the way at this point from http://ww.cycleorings.com and I opted to get the replacement bolts since the screws on my boots were rusty.

Hopefully I'll get these soon since I just had a car accident and need to work on regaining the use of my thumb so I can ride the bike while I am without a car.

I read through both of the carb rebuild tutorials from Mr Nessism and My Flaming Chainsaws and followed the latter which is specifically for the 450 and more closely matched my exact carb. Two things, how mandatory is the carb dip? and when I ordered replacement screws to reassemble the carb I was checking for fitment and the specs mentioned in mr FC's rebuild seem correct M6x1.00 M5x.0.80 and M4x.070 but when I go to put the new bolts into the carb bodies they start a little bit in and then become tight and I don't want to force them without checking. they are not cross threading.

I am attaching a pic of the two screws next to measuring calipers, they look the same to me. the photos are clipped to scale so both can be in one picture. I had a similar issue when I went to replace the nuts on the oil filter cover where the old bolt fits right on an m6 post, but the new m6 wouldn't go on the post more than three rotations. Is this just what happens when mixing old and new? or are these actually the wrong threads.
any feedback?
Thanks
 
I'm not sure I understand your question correctly? How else do you plan to dip and clean them if you don't buy the Berryman's? You cannot take shortcuts here or you will be doing it all over again later.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
I'm not sure I understand your question correctly? How else do you plan to dip and clean them if you don't buy the Berryman's? You cannot take shortcuts here or you will be doing it all over again later.
Click to expand...
OK, this may be TMI and I don't want to sound insolent, or unappreciative of anyone's helpful suggestions. If you don't want to know a little backstory, only read the next sentence and then ignore my posts going forward. I know you're right about redoing it later as a result.

Honestly, I'm more concerned with the screwsdamaging my carb so I can't use it as emergency transport (which is what I need right now). not that worried about doing it over again in a month or two. more interested in being able to get a few miles for food or job interviews. the bike was running fairly well before this rebuild was started. the insides of these carbs are as clean as all the after pictures I keep seeing in tutorials. the outside has minimal grime. the floats look like they could be 6 months old instead of 30 years. the jets were completely clean. even the orings looked ok (replacements on the way and why I'm waiting to put it back together at all). If I need to do the carb dip ( do I really?) it will be at a later time so I don't have to walk a few miles to the store and then back with a gallon of cleaner that I can't afford that well because I'm unemployed right now and facing over $14k in medical bills from chopping 1/3 of my thumb off a few weeks ago.. and if I don't need to spend the extra cash this second, I'd rather put it towards the deductible for getting my car fixed.

PS, it is really extra difficult rebuilding this thing having just gotten the bandages of this week and still have some stitches on the nub of my thumb which is quite sore still (especially when I bumped the airbox taking the carb out)
 
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