Do a bit of research on putting a clearcoat on your blasted covers.
The heat from the engine can yellow some products.
The heat from the engine can yellow some products.
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J
JRHemmen
Guest
Thanks for the heads up. Yea, there are a lot of negative reviews about it. I'm not sure how to continue. The cylinders look fantastic, but the white can splattered on the side covers and they'll need redone. The valve cover is white and that looks good. Hopefully there's enough left in the can to do the side covers again.
Does duplicolor enamel need to cure in an oven? There wasn't anything about it on the cans but I thought any enamel paint had to cure. I know VHT does.
Does duplicolor enamel need to cure in an oven? There wasn't anything about it on the cans but I thought any enamel paint had to cure. I know VHT does.
Yes, i would cure them at 200C for an hour.
I try to get them in the oven within a couple hours of painting.
I try to get them in the oven within a couple hours of painting.
J
JRHemmen
Guest
I blasted and repainted the side covers, only to have the paint fail to stick on the stator cover for some reason, even after degreasing and wiping down with alcohol. I stripped once more and cleared over the bare metal for those. I baked everything in a ghetto-rigged cardboard box / aluminum foil oven, which worked surprisingly well with my $40 heat gun, as I was able to get it right around 500 degrees for the final curing of the VHT paint. However, the duplicolor clear coat did fail after baking at 200C for an hour. I didn't bake the valve cover, and if it turns yellow on the engine I'll just take it off and figure something else out.
Failed adhesion:
Duplicolor high gloss white high temp enamel coated in duplicolor high gloss high temp clear - before and after baking
Failed adhesion:
Duplicolor high gloss white high temp enamel coated in duplicolor high gloss high temp clear - before and after baking
J
JRHemmen
Guest
Yesterday marked real progress, as I've finally started putting parts back ON the engine! I poured diesel through the crank case and it worked really well to pull all the crud out of the casing. Pulled the oil pan, cleaned the screen, put that back on, and poured about half a quart back in the case. Cleaned off the pistons and put the cylinders back on, only to have the brake cleaner I sprayed inside the cylinders dissolve the new black paint, oh well.
The diesel that came out of the drain plug didn't look much like the diesel that I poured into the crankcase. Lots of leftover oil in there.
The diesel that came out of the drain plug didn't look much like the diesel that I poured into the crankcase. Lots of leftover oil in there.
J
JRHemmen
Guest
Got everything back together, got the engine in the frame, tried to start it, and the carb had such a bad leak that there wasn't enough pressure to pull the gas/air into the engine. I ordered new bowl gaskets, new jets (needed them anyway), and an aluminum fuel tee that I hope will do the trick. I'm so close. Now that the side panels aren't going to be white, the white valve cover really stands out, and I'll repaint that when I take the engine out again.
B
blbiker56
Guest
Looking good!!! are you planning to put the stock seat back on? Did you chop the tail end of the frame?
J
JRHemmen
Guest
Thanks! One of the POs must have chopped it. They chopped up the seat for a bobber style too, so I'm going to have to make a new one.
J
JRHemmen
Guest
Thanks! Its the black and chrome MAC 2-1 Exhaust made specifically for the GS450. They retail for about $320 but they're almost always on sale somewhere for around $275. I obviously haven't had the bike on yet to give a report on performance, but I love the color scheme, as well as the fact that the headers are completely under the bike and nowhere near your legs.
J
JRHemmen
Guest
Got the carb parts in, still no luck. The fuel tee was a little too short but it looks like it's still going to work. The carbs are still pooling gas underneath, and I think it's because I can tighten the bowls down all the way. Two of the screws on one bowl are able to keep spinning and not get real tight, I guess they're stripped. Also, oil poured out of the filter cover, and one of those nuts feels stripped too. Any advice on how to proceed? I also realized my friend poured an entire gallon of oil in, so I drained it and put in the proper 2.75qt. It sounds like it's trying to catch, but it's not there yet.
*Edit* What are the chances that its as simple as a kinked oil filter O ring? Also, I read on here that a bad petcock could cause issues with the carbs. It seems plausible, as the spark plugs sure seemed dry to me. Can I leave the vacuum line hooked to the carbs and place the fuel line in a bucket to test the petcock's diaphragm?
*Edit* What are the chances that its as simple as a kinked oil filter O ring? Also, I read on here that a bad petcock could cause issues with the carbs. It seems plausible, as the spark plugs sure seemed dry to me. Can I leave the vacuum line hooked to the carbs and place the fuel line in a bucket to test the petcock's diaphragm?
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J
JRHemmen
Guest
I drilled and tapped bigger holes in the carbs for the bowl screws, and now the leak is solved. Unfortunately, it still won't start.
I readjusted the gasket on the filter housing, but the studs are definitely stripped. This is after ~2 minutes of cranking.
I readjusted the gasket on the filter housing, but the studs are definitely stripped. This is after ~2 minutes of cranking.
J
JRHemmen
Guest
It runs!
I had to take the entire top end apart again, but it runs!
I had to take the entire top end apart again, but it runs!
Congrats on the startup.
What did you discover ?
What did you discover ?
J
JRHemmen
Guest
I have a real long thread under the 2 cylinder engine subforum, but basically my valves desperately needed lapped, and my fuel hose was too long. I lapped the valves, ordered new piston rings (mine were out of spec by .1mm, looks like the engine is coming apart a third time), and verified the timing. After holding the gas tank in the air it started right up! I believe its backfiring through the carbs, so I'll have to check timing and the chain tensioner when I get it back together again with the new rings.
J
JRHemmen
Guest
I've been real busy recently, but I think its time for an update. I've gotten almost everything painted and have started reassembling the bike. I'll enclose a few pictures below.
I had a crack on the frame welded, and did some body filling where I did all my detabbing. I didn't realize how subpar my sanding was on the bondo until I had primed the frame. Oh well.
Quite the rig I slung together to hang the bike.
Some more weird paint reactions.
Starting to look like a bike again.
I had a crack on the frame welded, and did some body filling where I did all my detabbing. I didn't realize how subpar my sanding was on the bondo until I had primed the frame. Oh well.
Quite the rig I slung together to hang the bike.
Some more weird paint reactions.
Starting to look like a bike again.
Hmm... it's as if a PO had sprayed the entire bike with silicones in an attempt to keep corrosion at bay - either that, or he'd parked it next a wall that was being waterproofed.
Who knows the mysterious thought processes of POs? Anything can, and everything has, happened.
Who knows the mysterious thought processes of POs? Anything can, and everything has, happened.
J
jeffgs
Guest
I am back on, I want to see how this one goes. Nice bike brother. Went through the same deal. I rode mine all summer then tore it right back apart! LOL never ends
J
JRHemmen
Guest
Made a tray to hold my electronics. They won't be hidden under a cowl, but because of that I don't need to have a giant cowl jutting out of the back of the bike. Also sat the engine in tonight and will go out and get new bolts for the engine mounts tomorrow morning.
Stripped my tank, mostly.
Stripped my tank, mostly.
J
JRHemmen
Guest
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