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1980 GS450- Oil Pan... or Lower case?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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So apparently I have a little oil leak, stripped hole- of course a little maintenance on my first bike can't be easy.. But anyway its a little leak.
I've been told i have a couple options...
1. Tap it which i really don't want to do
2. go to an auto shop and get one of those rubber plugs and see how that works..
3. new oil pan.. However, does the 1980 GS450 have an oil pan or was it before oil pan days and is it part of the lower engine casing?

Gracias

Christina
 
Re: 1980 GS450- Oil Pan... or Lower case?

COgrrlrides said:
So apparently I have a little oil leak, stripped hole- of course a little maintenance on my first bike can't be easy.. But anyway its a little leak.
I've been told i have a couple options...
1. Tap it which i really don't want to do
2. go to an auto shop and get one of those rubber plugs and see how that works..
3. new oil pan.. However, does the 1980 GS450 have an oil pan or was it before oil pan days and is it part of the lower engine casing?

Gracias

Christina
Click to expand...


http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic.asp?dept_id=136920

I am assuming it is your oil plug bolt that is stripped. The part number for the pan is 11511-44100 ($31.73 at Ron Ayers) and the part number for the oil pan gasket is 11489-44110 ($4.21 at Ron Ayers). They have changed to part number for the pan gasket from the original 11489-44100. You should also change the bolt since you had problems with it in the first place, part number 09247-14001. It cost $0.78 at Ron Ayers. Don't forget the oil plug gasket part number 09168-14004 for $0.59.

Hap
 
I had a kind-of stripped oil pan plug on my 750E. Got some of that liquid teflon thread sealant, works great. I'll helicoil the thing if it starts leaking again, but for now, a $3 tube of goop instead of $100 pan (no kidding, I checked) is sufficient.

Greetings from down the road!
 
There is another option, which I chose a while ago. The difference between what I am going to explain here is that I moved the drain hole to clear my 4 to 1 pipes.

Forget helicoiling the drain hole. Make up a stainless steel plate about an inch and a half square - thickness about 1/4 or 3/8 inch - thick enough to take the drain screw. Drill and tap a new drain hole in this plate (it is the usually same size as a spark plug hole so most mechanics have the tap somewhere on a shelf).

Drill it at the corners and drill matching holes in the sump plate.
Machine the sump plate flat around the drain hole to take the new plate.
If there are gaps, fill them with metal epoxy.
Bolt it on with nylock nuts.

You now have a solid drain plug that won't strip in future. It will cost you less than a new sump plate, but more time.

Kim
 
Thanks for the ideas everyone. That last one is an excellent fix idea, unfortunately I don't have access to a good shop right now... interesting, fixing a bike with only a couple screwdrivers, minimal socket and wrench set. And thanks Hap for the website - I've been looking for a resource like that.

I heading down to put the bike together this afternoon after my tune job. Had to reseal a rusty tank, cleaned and repaired the carbs, sparks etc soooooo... I'm going to turn it over and see how it runs and what the oil situation looks like but I think I'm going to end up replacing the pan, plug and gaskets
 
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