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1980 Gs550e starts and dies after warm.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Track06
  • Start date Start date
T

Track06

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So I just "finished" rebuilding this bike, made the rookie mistake of not getting her to run before mods. So here I am with a half running bike and pulling my hair out. I'm currently running UNI pods with chopped ext running shorties. I've installed the dynojet stage 3 kit per instructions. Have a 155dj main, clip on 3rd slot, air correctors installed. 2.5 turns out. Got her running, idled great threw my helmet on and went for a test ride. She was very stuttery till about 1/2, 3/4 throttle then ripped, like i hit a nitrous button... But once she warmed up She didn't want to keep idling, started running worse and worse, got her home and she died wouldn't start . Got up this morning went outside and she started up but wouldn't idle. Took a bit to get her to start up, i took off the pods and put my hand over the carbs one at a time, i could hear her wanting to kick over, then finally she did! But she died very quickly and i have not been able to get her to start back up... To make matters worse the starter button on my switch died too. 😔 Not my morning. The bike didn't seem to run any different with filters on or off, do i need to put more oil on these filters, to help restrict the air more? I have not synced the carbs yet cause i can't get the bike to run long without sitting off.
 
Yeah, newbee mistakes.
Stage 3 WTF??? read the instructions, you can only use that after a total high performance engine build with higher compression and high lift cams, headers and slip on, and then it's only good above 4000 rpm.
Learning experience…Can't turn a 550 into a 750 with a few bolt-ons.
 
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Sure sounds to me like the float bowls are dry. Open the drains on the bottom of the carbs and see how much fuel comes out. Get something to catch any that comes out, and set the petcock to PRIme and see if the fuel flow stops and becomes a trickle. On PRI, the and the drain open on the carb bowl, the fuel should just drain out a constant rate, if it doesn't then you have fuel delivery issue somewhere.
 
I'm reading this looking for inspiration for my failure to idle once warmed up issue. It's so funny how we have a tendency to want to diagnose starting with complicated things instead of starting with the basics. My bike, last I had it together would, start up and run fine on the lift. But after it started to get hot, suddenly it wouldn't stay idling without some throttle or turning up the idle. Before you know it, the idle is at 3K and everything is a mess so you shut it down. Things start going through your mind as to why it does this because you're not dumb, you know things that can go wrong. But you assume the worst and don't suspect that the bowls are getting low because you can keep it running by turning the idle up. I'm pretty sure after reading some of the responses here that my problem is the petcock. The bike had sat for awhile and the petcock oring had fused shut which I replaced with a similar oring to make it work again but the gas coming out of my tank is yellow, lol. Not because it's old gas but because I drained it and put new in which is probably washing out any solidified gas/varnish that was remaining. Who knows what kind of crap could be goin on with my fuel system in that kind of situation. I'm guessing something is plugged up. Unfortunately I pulled the wire harness apart and now I have a hole in my roof I have to fix so I won't be able to get an answer anytime soon. :(

I'd like to hear what the OP found.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
Yeah, newbee mistakes.
Stage 3 WTF??? read the instructions, you can only use that after a total high performance engine build with higher compression and high lift cams, headers and slip on, and then it's only good above 4000 rpm.
Learning experience…Can't turn a 550 into a 750 with a few bolt-ons.
Click to expand...


What the hell are you going on about? He probably did read the instructions. And they sure don't include any of the BS you just posted...... Even Dynojet themselves say the stage 3 kit is for "Mildly tuned machines using individual filters or velocity stacks. May also be used with a good aftermarket exhaust system."
 
Buffalo Bill said:
Stage 3 WTF??? read the instructions, you can only use that after a total high performance engine build with higher compression and high lift cams, headers and slip on, and then it's only good above 4000 rpm.
Click to expand...
Have read the instructions and at least the Dynojet stage 3 jet kit is designed for 4-1 pipes and quality pods, nothing about a built high compression motor. I don't know if the pods and pipes he has would work well with it. My motor is factory stock and runs perfectly with it. So now you can start all the basic maintenance you never did including electrical and without a baseline reference expect a lot of tail chasing. Been there and done that.
 
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Haha wow yeah the stage 3 is for exactly what i have, pods and exh. So i ended up having to readjust my floats, they were at 19mm and supposed to be around 22mm... I also put in 42.5 pilot's, and the bike is idling cold or warm perfectly! I've got dj170 mains and I'm on the 3rd clip but i think i might be a tad rich... Waiting for the bike to cool and I'm pulling the carbs off once again! First I'll change the mains hopefully that will give me some better mpg and still ride well!
 
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