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1980 GS550L Dyna III Install Help Please!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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:? Hey Guys, I'm in the process of installing a Dyna III ignition on my 1980 GS550L which has had the Kokusan ignition on it. I've replaced the stock coils with Dyna Green coils and added new Dyna 7MM wires.

My question is about where the red wire coming from the igniter splices on
to the orange and white wire coming from the coils. The Dyna instructions say :

Step 4:Remove the fuel tank. Locate the two ignition coils. There is an orange and white wire coming from each coil to a common junction in the wire harness. These wires carry the switched 12 volts to the coils. Using the splice connector provided, attach the separate red wire included in the kit to the orange and white wire that goes to the coils.

My question is exactly where is this place where I splice on to? It looks like one of the orange wires goes to the fuse box and one goes toward another box underneath the air box. I don't want to splice in the wrong place. Could someone who has went thru this please tell me were the splicing place is? Any help would be appreciated.

Sorry for being so dense. Just seems like the instructions aren't all that clear.
:cry:
 
Youre looking at the wrong end of the bike. :-) At the steering stem where the coils are located, you will see that each coil has an orange/white wire attached to it + terminal. You attach the red dyna power lead to the orange/white wire on either + coil terminal. (it makes no difference which coil + terminal you choose to take power from.) You can also just put a double spade clip on the coil + terminal, reconnect the original orange/white wire and your red dyna wire to that.

Earl
 
earlfor said:
Youre looking at the wrong end of the bike. :-) At the steering stem where the coils are located, you will see that each coil has an orange/white wire attached to it + terminal. You attach the red dyna power lead to the orange/white wire on either + coil terminal. (it makes no difference which coil + terminal you choose to take power from.) You can also just put a double spade clip on the coil + terminal, reconnect the original orange/white wire and your red dyna wire to that.

Earl
Click to expand...
Thank You my friend. I guess that I wasn't grasping it the right way. I have another dumb question to ask.

When I install the new Dyna III rotor I've noticed that the Dyna rotor is about 1/8" shorter then the stock rotor which inturn allows the rotor to move in an out a pretty good bit on the shaft. Is this normal?
 
The crankshaft end that the rotor fits onto has a groove in it and there is a key cast into the inside of the dyna rotor that slides into the crankshaft groove to keep the rotor in the same alignment. On both of my dyna's, the rotor is a tight press fit. You can pull it off, but it is not loose enough that it will slide off by itself. If you have a tight, push on fit, it will be fine. It should not be free/loose enough to slide off easily. The height of the rotor is not critical as long as the sensor in the rotor passes the pick ups on the breaker plate when the rotor rotates.

Earl

MountainGS said:
When I install the new Dyna III rotor I've noticed that the Dyna rotor is about 1/8" shorter then the stock rotor which inturn allows the rotor to move in an out a pretty good bit on the shaft. Is this normal?
Click to expand...
 
:D Earl, I finally got it running on all 4 with the Dyna III ignition and the green coils and it sounds pretty ferocious too for a change. But, I still figure I've got the wrong rotor (to short).

It has a good snug fit on the back side where the stock advancer press fits into the crank with the little index pin. The problem is the black part or the (Dyna rotor) deal that slides on to ingage the advnacer. It is about 3/16" or so shorter then my stock rotor was. What happens is the bolt bottoms out leaving a gap for the black adavancer to move back and forth on the shaft. What I was doing was, I would push the little rotor in and start the bike. It would run fine till I reved it up a time or two and when the rotor would work itself out, the bike would start missing badly from not passing by the pickups close enough.

:idea: What I did then was found a rubber bushing to use temporarily to take up the space and vouwala. The bike would run and idle like a top. They must have sent me a nippon denso rotor instead of a kokusan or something. I guess I'll have to give them a call. I appreciate the help on wiring it up. I had to suck on the petcock ventube for a good while to get prime to all the carburetors.

Man, it sure is a relief, after doing the carb clean and the ignition job, to know that it's going to be worth it and run and idle good for a change. :)

Thanks Again
 
awesome. :) the dyna installs are pretty easy...and you will notice a dramatic startup change. my bike fires before some newer bikes now :D

~Adam
 
That happened to me once. The tech at Dyna told me the only difference between the parts on the Kokosan and Nippondensco was the rotor.

Earl


MountainGS said:
They must have sent me a nippon denso rotor instead of a kokusan or something. I guess I'll have to give them a call.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the help and replies Guys!

Earl, I would like to set my time with a timing light. Is there a good procedure already posted for this? If not could you maybe explain it to me?

Or is the static procedure better? Just yell back when it's conveinent. No hurry. :)
 
I put a Dyna S on my GS550L several months ago and had the same problem (extra space). My bike had the Nippondensco ignition (at least I was told it did). In my kit, there was a spacer provided for certain applications. When I put the spacer in I found it was just a hair too thick, and prevented the advance from moving properly. Somebody else on this site (I forgot who) told me not to worry about the extra movement, and the bike certainly seems to run fine even with that extra play. Just the same, I intend to get an appropriate spacer for extra certainty.

Steve 8)
 
Yea, I think I need the spacer. Mine wouldn't run right. As soon as the rotor floated out to the end of the shaft it would take missing and backfiring fits. But with the rubber homemade spacer it does ok.

I still think I'll give them a call and see what they say.

Thanks,
Blake
 
I have a Dyna S and I have a Dyna 2000, but not a Dyna III. My S and 2000 set up differently. Does the Dyna III have a degree marked rotor. Does the III have a module and test function? If I know what the pieces look like, I can probably help you out. Let me know what you have and I'll get an answer to you. :-)

Surely there is someone out there that has set up a Dyna III?

Earl


MountainGS said:
Thanks for the help and replies Guys!

Earl, I would like to set my time with a timing light. Is there a good procedure already posted for this? If not could you maybe explain it to me?

Or is the static procedure better? Just yell back when it's conveinent. No hurry. :)
Click to expand...
 
Earl, It has the test light type timing procedeure explained in the Dyna instructions but, I just haven't taken the time to fool with it. I'll probably have to pull it back off when I change Dyna rotors anyway.

The little black Dyna rotor only has a big index mark on it about a quarter of an inch wide which isn't used as a timing index mark, it's just there so you can make sure it's on the left when you index it into the advancer. I do still have the marks inside on the advancer plate. I think it has an F mark and a 1-4 mark just the normal stock deal for 1980 year.

I've got the plate turned all the way to the right and it seems to run better
then when I had it in the middle. I still think it could stand some more advance. I kind of hate to move the pickups though, but I might. I read a post on the forum where another guy put a Dyna III on a GS550 and ended up with the plate and both pickups twisted all the way to the right which made it run it's best.

I've quit fooling with that for now and moved on to pulling the brake calipers apart and cleaning and freeing them up. Shhooooeeee they were really nasty especially the back one. I guess if it's gonna be fast it needs to stop to. I'll get with you later after I get the right rotor from Dyna.

Thanks A Bunch,
Blake
 
OK, sounds like its the same as the "S" model. Give me a yell then when youre ready to set it up.

Earl


MountainGS said:
Earl, It has the test light type timing procedeure explained in the Dyna instructions but, I just haven't taken the time to fool with it. I'll probably have to pull it back off when I change Dyna rotors anyway.
I'll get with you later after I get the right rotor from Dyna.

Thanks A Bunch,
Blake
Click to expand...
 
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