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1980 GS550L Main fuse popping

  • Thread starter Thread starter 81gs1100
  • Start date Start date
8

81gs1100

Guest
Hello guys,
I been pulling my hair out on this one. I feel its an ignition box issue, but I thought I would test here to deny or confirm.

Now before you all hit me with why are you blowing all the fuses, use this... I am using a 12v light bulb to indicate a pop fuse condition. So when you see "pop", I really mean the light grew bright.

The main fuse on this bike will pop when of course turning on the key switch. If the kill switch is on "kill", no problem, all is good. When I turn the switch to run, "pop". I traced more wires checking connections, this is what I can up with. If I unplug the coils, all is good, if I plug in the right side coil. with the B/Y wire, no change in the bulb. But when I plug in the left coil with the W wire, the bulb glows. I tested both coils res. 5.2 ohm. And "OL" to ground. If I jump the coils around the one that didn't do any change now will "pop" the light. So the White wire side coming from the Ignition box will pop the fuse when plugging in the coil.

Does that make and sense to anyone? That the box could be bad and grounding continusly enough to heat the fuse?

I also found the stator wires, Y, W/G, W/B all Ohm to ground. As well as the Red wire from the R/R showing some Ohm to ground. I unpluged the stator for the test with no change. Could this be causing something in the lighting legs of the coils? I don't have a manual or diagram to decode any specs to test.

Thanks Mike :confused:
 
SO the stator is toast or you have a pinched wire. Did you
disconnect the regulator too ??
 
tom203 said:
Did you disconnect ground wire from R/R ? - otherwise a bad R/R could trip the main fuse since power could travel from red wire(from harness) thru R/R to ground.
Click to expand...
For any electrical device that has only two connections (wires) to the circuit, if you remove ONE connection, you effectively remove the entire device. You don't need to remove both wires.

.
 
Steve said:
For any electrical device that has only two connections (wires) to the circuit, if you remove ONE connection, you effectively remove the entire device. You don't need to remove both wires.

.
Click to expand...
Well,yeah, but I was making sure that he hadn't modified wiring and that red wire was still in stator plug, so it was actually disconnected - mine goes direct to harness.
 
UPDATE:

Stator legs ( Y, W/b, W/g ) all have continuity to ground, 5.xx Ohms. Output, 6VAC from each leg.

R/R red wire, 6 Ohm to ground, output 5 VDC while running.

I'm feeling both components are bad. The bike hasn't blown a fuse yet since unplugging the R/R red wire. The fuse still reaches high temps (100 - 110 Degrees with 65 degree shop).

Coil wires and coils are fine. I was getting a false readings with my tester.

So anyone know a good dealer of these electronics? Or just order through Parts Unlimited (Ricks electronics)?
 
OK, red R/R wire unplugged, but stator wires are now plugged back in (to R/R) and you get those **** poor readings??
Also , you sure about 5.0 ohms to ground for all 3 stator wires (this is with stator unlugged)?????


Note to moderator....What! censorship- how come it didn't work when poor MisterOh was barraged in carb forum?
 
Last edited:
Yes with stator unplugged.... there is continuity to ground in all 3 legs. and <6VDC
 
81gs1100 said:
Yes with stator unplugged.... there is continuity to ground in all 3 legs. and <6VDC
Click to expand...
Your stator has failed- might have been caused by bad R/R, so replace both. Lots of choices new.I've had good luck with used early 80's stators. Of course, if you buy new, you get warranty.
 
Hi,

I like the Rick's stators. But if you're on a tight budget, I've recently installed a part from Caltric, an eBay seller, about $90 with free shipping.

I'd try to pick up a good used Shindengen r/r unit from the "approved" list HERE.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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