1980 GS550L rebuild

[glenwill]

Glen,

I called Progressive about the springs I bought. First, the wrong ones were in the package (may have been a returns issue with the reseller, perhaps not their fault). When I did finally get the correct springs, they were thinner than they needed to be (note the 11-1115 has 22mm OD IIRC) were not long enough although it said "no spacer required". What they came right out and said was that most of their database was gained from acquiring another company and they really don't have any idea where the suggestions came from. I still installed my springs (with PVC spacers) and they work fine and handle much better than the originals. The 1106's look like they should be fine for your application, the 25mm OD should fit. Of course you're going to need to add spacers.

The bottom line of what I'm saying is that there's no hard-and-fast rule about this - you're going to have to do a bit of experimentation. You'll notice that the Progressive page just says "GS550", and probably doesn't even have an option for L, E or whatever sub-model, despite the fact that the L is going to use a longer spring. Those springs are going to work, you are just going to have to find the right pre-load that works for you and ignore Progressive's note on there. Six inches isn't an unlikely amount for the spacers at all; don't get all crazy with pre-load and make 'em a foot long so you don't even have 6" of travel and you'll be OK. A good rule of thumb for starting I think is to size the spacers so they're about 1" out of the forks at full extension and no load (that will be about 1.5" of pre-load after installation). You can cut the spacers down later if it's too much pre-load, or add washers (or just re-cut longer spacers) if you want some more.

Also, may I suggest not leaning on Bike Bandit too heavily? I have bought a few things there myself, though not so much. Things like that page (no model #), or the fact that they don't use real Suzuki part #'s for OEM parts really p1ss me off. You can usually find better prices for stuff than there - those same springs from powersportsuperstore would have run you less than $70 shipped.

Thanks so much for your help, Mike. The measured length of the springs in the box matches what Progressive says that model spring should be, so I do think I got the 'correct' ones. But as you say, they don't even list the sub models, so who knows if they are really 'correct'.

As long as 6" spacers won't be an issue or cause any instability or handling problem, I'm fine with long spacers.

Do you think that will effect the amount of fork oil I need? BassCliff's page says to fill with oil to 140 mm before adding the springs and spacers. But with such a long spacer, it will likely displace more oil than the same length of spring would have. Do I need to account for that somehow?

Glen

 

[mike_of_bbg]

I don't think the spacer is going to make much difference in the oil level requirements. By the way, the factory manual says 217ml per leg, or a level of 229mm/9.02 in. for the GS550LT (yes, fork extended, upright, no springs; pump it a few times slowly to purge air from the lowers). BC's bike is a GS850 and it has a wider fork leg. While you're putting in oil, what you're actually setting the level of is air above the oil. The air will compress as the fork does and basically acts as another spring. This is also why you want to be sure to even out your oil levels, so that you have equal air spring on both sides.

 

[glenwill]

I don't think the spacer is going to make much difference in the oil level requirements. By the way, the factory manual says 217ml per leg, or a level of 229mm/9.02 in. for the GS550LT (yes, fork extended, upright, no springs; pump it a few times slowly to purge air from the lowers). BC's bike is a GS850 and it has a wider fork leg. While you're putting in oil, what you're actually setting the level of is air above the oil. The air will compress as the fork does and basically acts as another spring. This is also why you want to be sure to even out your oil levels, so that you have equal air spring on both sides.

Thanks for the corrected numbers. I was thinking that the 140 MM came from Progressive, but that is Progressive's maximum. They say to follow the bike's recommended level unless it is above 140.

I'll go with 229 mm.

Regarding the preload, I am a larger rider (270 lb), so I assume I want to start with a bit more preload, correct? Is there somewhere to calculate preload? I know from BassCliff's page how to check preload after I put it back together, and adjust as necessary, I just want to avoid starting too small and having to cut brand new spacers, since mine are long to begin with.

 

[glenwill]

Thanks for the corrected numbers. I was thinking that the 140 MM came from Progressive, but that is Progressive's maximum. They say to follow the bike's recommended level unless it is above 140.

I'll go with 229 mm.

Regarding the preload, I am a larger rider (270 lb), so I assume I want to start with a bit more preload, correct? Is there somewhere to calculate preload? I know from BassCliff's page how to check preload after I put it back together, and adjust as necessary, I just want to avoid starting too small and having to cut brand new spacers, since mine are long to begin with.

If anyone has a thought on preload, let me know. I am thinking I will start with the spacers sticking up about 1 1/2" before putting on the cap, and adjust from there.

I am trying to find a replacement handlebar. Mine was bent when I got it, I straightened it, and it got bent again when my son dropped the bike, so I straightened it again. I am not sure I can get it back into perfect shape again, and I've heard that each re-bend weakens them.

I am trying to keep the same bars as was originally on the bike. I know the "L" models get a lot of flack for their handlebars, among other quirks, but I have somewhat short arms for my height, and the longer bars feel comfortable for me.

The problem is that I am having trouble finding something comparable. I've seen many descriptions on how to measure them, and I still don't feel confident I've found something similar.

Anyone have any guidance?

Glen

 

[tkent02]

I have a few 550L bars here to sell. One great condition, one in fairly good condition.

 

[glenwill]

I have a few 550L bars here to sell. One great condition, one in fairly good condition.

Thanks. PM sent.

 

[glenwill]

I need a rebuild kit for my front master cylinder, 1980 GS550L.

I can't find something sold as a rebuild kit. Many sites (Z1, Dennis Kirk, Powersportsplus) have a rear master cylinder rebuild kit, but not front.

Is part 1 from this fiche the same thing:
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=93287&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2111

Glen

 

[mike_of_bbg]

Yes, part #1 is the kit need. You might also think about replacing the MC O-ring #3 if there are any signs of weepage around the bottom of the reservoir. You'll want to pull the reservoir anyway and make sure the return port underneath it is clear.

 

[glenwill]

Yes, part #1 is the kit need. You might also think about replacing the MC O-ring #3 if there are any signs of weepage around the bottom of the reservoir. You'll want to pull the reservoir anyway and make sure the return port underneath it is clear.

Awesome, thanks Mike. I had no leakage, and the cup and o-ring looked good. I tried to take the boot off of the piston to inspect, and ripped it! Figured I might as well just buy the rebuild kit and make sure it is in good order.

Glen

 

[glenwill]

I had 1/2" PVC, and it seems a little loose in the fork tube, so I went and bought a length of 3/4" PVC, and it won't fit in. It's just barely too big. Like if I used a hammer, I could probably force it in. I won't, obviously! Just emphasizing how close it is to fitting. Regardless, I can't use the 3/4".

When I hold the 1/2" PVC end-to-end with the spring, it is just slightly smaller. I think with the washer in between, it will work just fine, even though it is a little loose. Any problem with it slapping around?

Glen

 

[Guest]

You'll be fine.

 

[glenwill]

I don't think the spacer is going to make much difference in the oil level requirements. By the way, the factory manual says 217ml per leg, or a level of 229mm/9.02 in. for the GS550LT (yes, fork extended, upright, no springs; pump it a few times slowly to purge air from the lowers). BC's bike is a GS850 and it has a wider fork leg. While you're putting in oil, what you're actually setting the level of is air above the oil. The air will compress as the fork does and basically acts as another spring. This is also why you want to be sure to even out your oil levels, so that you have equal air spring on both sides.

Mike, I was just re-reading your post to put in my springs this weekend, and I realized you say to measure with the fork extended. My Clymer manual and Basscliff's page say to measure with the fork fully compressed. I just want to make sure I do this right. Compressed is correct?

Glen

 

[mike_of_bbg]

I believe I mis-typed before and that's correct, compressed My apologies. Sometimes the fingers disconnect from the brain (or the brain just ain't too well connected to begin with!).

Make sure you pump them (slowly!) a few times to try to purge any captured air in the lowers for a more accurate level.

By the way, just in case you were not aware, there's a PDF format factory service manual covering 77-82 GS550s on BassCliff's little site:

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS550_77-82_all.pdf

The fork oil levels for the GS550LT are in the appendix for that model on P. 384.

 

[glenwill]

I believe I mis-typed before and that's correct, compressed My apologies. Sometimes the fingers disconnect from the brain (or the brain just ain't too well connected to begin with!).

Make sure you pump them (slowly!) a few times to try to purge any captured air in the lowers for a more accurate level.

By the way, just in case you were not aware, there's a PDF format factory service manual covering 77-82 GS550s on BassCliff's little site:

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS550_77-82_all.pdf

The fork oil levels for the GS550LT are in the appendix for that model on P. 384.

OK, thanks, just wanted to be certain. I have same problem with my fingers typing independently of my brain sometimes! I am comfortable in automotive work, but motorcycles are new to me, so I am just trying to avoid making a critical mistake.

Yes, I have the service manual, and it also says to compress the forks.

Glen

 

[glenwill]

My manual says 217 cc/mm of oil, and a measured distance from the top of 229 mm or 9 inches.

my measure goes in 40 milliliter increments, so I went between 200 and 240, which should be around 220 milliliters.

however, when I measure the distance from the top it's actually 10.25 inches. I did it again on the other tube just to make sure I had measured correctly, and it comes out the same way.

so which do I go by? I made up a tube that I can draw out excess above the 9 inches, so I can add until I reach that level, and then draw out the access. But that would end up with more than 217 milliliter. Will that be okay?

Glen

 

[glenwill]

Just checking if anyone has a thought on this.

In order to reach the 9.02" (or 229 mm), I need to add roughly 1.25" of oil.

I did some calculations and 1.25 inches of oil will equate to roughly another 16 ml of oil.

I don't understand how the manual could be off that much, or what to do about it.

Can anyone suggest whether I should go by the measured volume of 217 ml or by the measured height of 229 mm/9.02 inches?

Glen

 

[glenwill]

I found some other posts that seem to make clear that the height from the top is what matters, not the amount of oil. Most of those were in reference to the measured amount of oil being too high, and the assumption is that maybe they didn't get all of the old oil out.

I my case the measured amount is too low, and I need to add more oil to reach the right level.

I'm going to go ahead with that approach, and set the level to 9.02" from the top, adding about 15-20 ml of oil.

Glen

 

[glenwill]

I'm still in need a new handlebars. As I mentioned before, I like the stock L bars, mine are rusty and have been bent badly and bent back several times. I'd feel better with new ones.

Any hints on how to find something the same or very similar?

Glen

 

[Guest]

I have some handebars. Not as high as the L but not as low as the ES.
I think they are off an 82 GS1100E.

 

[eil]

I have the stock bars off my 1980 GS850GL that you are welcome to for the cost of shipping. Only problem is that they are a little on the rusty side. Not solid brown or anything, but I don't think they could be made shiny again as-is. Don't know if the cost of getting them rechromed would be worth it, but I thought I would offer them up anyway.