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1980 GS850 GL petcock

  • Thread starter Thread starter David-Z
  • Start date Start date
D

David-Z

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I went to my local shop looking for a replacement as the lever has been broken off of mine since purchase last fall. The guy pulled a bin of about 50-60 petcocks and not one matched the bolt pattern. He used a screw driver and said it was "functioning" properly, but even a rebuild kit wont come with the lever that I need. Has anyone has a similar problem? I scoped out a few of the bikes in the part/for sale section (and grant it my zoom isn't the best, nor the picture I was trying to zoom in on), but it looked like this missing lever is a common problem. Ebay had brand new for $99.xx, not sure if i want to drop that kinda coin on this. Any suggestions?
 
That bike's petcock never had a lever. It's was meant to be used with a screwdriver. It has only two positions: prime and run. There is no reserve. You have a range of about 100 miles before you should really be looking for gas (assuming the carbs are stock and working working right).

If you decide to replace it, be aware that the mounting hole spacing is also unusual. I wouldn't advise bothering unless there are operational problems, such as behaving like it's out of gas at highway speeds.
 
Dogma said:
That bike's petcock never had a lever. It's was meant to be used with a screwdriver. It has only two positions: prime and run. There is no reserve.
Click to expand...

I figured I learnbmore about petcock once I had a working one in my hand. I understand the "reserve" (which apparently I don't have), I'm also fairly certain I understand "run", but I have no idea what "prime" is. Also, when I and the guy at the shop looked at it, it would spin a full revolution + and never "reach the other setting". How do I know if or what position it is in without a lever? I'm a Newbie sorry.
 
No need to apologize- lots of us don't understand this petcock. In theory, this petcock will only allow fuel to flow if engine is running (makes a vacuum). If fuel has evaporated from carbs (long time sitting) or you've recently installed carbs after a cleaning- you need to get fuel to flow without vacuum since engine ain't running. That's the prime's spot job.Unfortunately, as I understand this thing, even in prime spot you need to burp it ( one vacuum pulse from cranking ) to get things flowing. Hopefully, someone will chime in and correct me!
 
tom203, you have it right. I have the same bike and I was confused about this petcock as well.

If you do need a replacement, CRC2 appears to have brand-new ones for $50 (second one down): http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/fuel_system_parts/petcocks/petcocks_suz.html

You can get a rebuild kit for a little cheaper, but there's a thread on here about how the o-ring that comes with it isn't the right size. People here recommend against the rebuild kits, though, for this and other reasons.
 
Details on how the petcock works is in the factory Suzuki service manual. Basscliff has a free download for you if you don't already have it.

One trick about that petcock is it needs a pulse of vacuum before the prime feature will work.

good luck
 
Hi,

David-Z said:
...I'm also fairly certain I understand "run", but I have no idea what "prime" is....
Click to expand...

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Nessism said:
Details on how the petcock works is in the factory Suzuki service manual. Basscliff has a free download for you if you don't already have it.

One trick about that petcock is it needs a pulse of vacuum before the prime feature will work.

good luck
Click to expand...
Very important!
The only way to prime the float bowls is by sucking on the vacuum line on prime which is the slot in the l position. (up and down) run is parrallel to the ground.
 
The prime function depends on a little rubber check valve that is supposed to hold diaphragm open once you apply vacuum to it - the run setting opens an air bleed so it only holds the vacuum while it's running. Chances are that check valve doesn't hold after 33 years. As chef said, your best bet to prime that bike is by sucking on the vacuum tube yourself.
I've found that once you get the bike running solidly enough, you really don't have to prime it too often.
 
chef1366 said:
Very important!
The only way to prime the float bowls is by sucking on the vacuum line on prime which is the slot in the l position. (up and down) run is parrallel to the ground.
Click to expand...

Or turn the engine over a couple times with it on prime. Give it a few minutes to fill the carbs. Assuming the petcock can still hold vacuum. If it won't you're a candidate for poor flow on run, resulting in starved cabs on the highway. I replaced mine with a new stock unit. Prime it in the spring and forget about it. Put a pingle on it and you need to remember to turn it off when you park it.
 
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