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1980 GSX250 BS30SS carb piston diaphragm

angrypants

Forum Apprentice
Past Site Supporter
Hi all

the young fella jumped into fitting the new diaphragms i bought him for his carbs, but failed to take any notice where the tongue on the diaphragm was in relation to the piston. yes with a little oil the new diaphragm can be worked / snuck back into the groove between the ?? plastic washers on this model.

Question: does the piston go back in any old way on this model carb, .. or was the diaphragm and its tongue set in a way that insured the piston valve goes back in to the body in a certain orientation ??

in the manual i just see reference to ensure you replace the assembly in the same carb body it cam out of and you must have the tongue located in the carb body correctly , but given its a multi piece assembly that if purchased from Suzuki come in one piece im wondering if the diaphragm is attached to the piston so that the tongue is in a specific direction and thus the piston goes into the carb body a certain way.

probably over thinking it :confused:, but best to get it right than have an issue later and have to pull the carbs

any ideas?


thanks

grant
 
There are two holes in the bottom of the piston. One is dead-center and holds the needle. The other is to be situated downstream of the needle. "Downstream" means following the air stream, or closer to the engine.

.
 
Thanks I'll get onto that
did not get to the carbs today spent hours cleaning gasket residue, and those engines with the tappets to adjust the valve clearance are evil had to cut some feeler gauges to fit in the tight recess ... hopefully get it finished this week and see how it goes
cheers
grant
 
hi steve,

just an update on this thread

i finally got the job done last weekend, took a bit of lube to get the diaphragms to move and get them in the right spot but nothing broke and the outer holes are facing the engine

i raised the needles a notch (a notch down with the c clip),

did valve clearances - now at the outer limit of spec .

Bad news - one tiny air leak in the airbox to carb boots, so the idle hangs for just a 1/2 a second (the PO cut some rubber tube instead of spend $20 on boots which will be on order shortly, so i'll finish balancing / syncing the carbs one i get rid of the leak ).

The best news no oil leaks, and the engine revs great with no hesitation or dead spot between 4-7000 like it did, now smooth and strong all the way to red line - HAPPY DAYS

thank you all once again for your help !

grant
 
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