Posplayr's solid state powerbox (Search SSPB thread) is one choice. An Eastern Beaver power center is another.
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Posplayr's solid state powerbox (Search SSPB thread) is one choice. An Eastern Beaver power center is another.
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growler
Guest
They are not direct replacements as in plug and play, but there is no "re" wiring needed unless you get a 6 wire unit like a Honda unit. Super easy if you don't mind soldering or have a quality crimp tool. Three wires go to the stator (usually yellow, no way to get them wrong - hook any yellow to another yellow they are all just A/C) from the stator, one hot wire to the battery or preferably to the red "T" wire that is upstream slightly from the fusebox and the ground goes to the frame as close to the unit as possible, ideally to a SPG (Single Point Ground).
PosPlayr has lots of posts about this, he helped me with mine and sells a great fusebox replacement called the SSPB as BigD_83 stated above and he is considering doing a version II. He has the CompuFire unit as well, as seen in that link.
Do at least a cursory search on the R/R replacement - lots of knowledge and discussion on this topic here. I got the CompuFire 55402 on Amazon shipped for $165 and I have heard of Shindengen/Polaris SH-775 for half of that as well, and there are people that will tell you that they have 30+ year old stock R/R's that have no issues with 10's of thousands of miles on them but it is honestly only a matter of time ESPECIALLY if you change out your bulbs from stock incandesants to LED like I did. My R/R literally only had 5,000 miles on it when it blew, but I didn't do the research and thought I was saving power by upgrading to all LED's. Well I was saving power but the extra power had to go somewhere. And it did - it went to ground. And took out my R/R in the process.
At the very minimum for now, perform the checks on the stator and R/R and replace any burnt connections, clean up/protect the power, fusebox, battery and R/R connections with dielectric grease or De-Oxit and make sure your grounds are excellent but you'll be replacing that R/R eventually, don't let it take out the expensive stator when it goes...
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
Thanks for all the good info Microphone. This is my first bike build, so when it comes to R/R and fuse blocks I am clueless. I am looking to replace the R/R and the fuse block as well. I have emailed the SSPB guy to see if he has any in stock or when the next ones will be ready for shipping. I figure I am restoring the bike so why not have parts that work, instead of 30+ year old dinosaurs. I have rebuilt the wiring harness already adding my connector to the new R/R and the fuse block is easy stuff. I have replaced all the stock connectors and repaired the wire that was smashed/cut/sliced, etc. It was a hot mess when I started pulling it apart. I will be getting some dielectric grease before the bike goes back together.
Definitely. You never know what half a$$ed stuff the previous owner did or didn't do as well.
Check your carb boots to air sure they're soft and pliable if you haven't alteady as well as the obvious things like cables, vac and fuel lines and brakes and if you're doing pods, order the appropriate jets, dip those carbs, but don't buy a "carb rebuild kit", just order new orings from cycleorings.com and check the date codes on the tires too.
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Guest
Guest
If you are going to a new R/R, I would installed a new/rewound stator (From Steve) as well just to make sure everything is as new as possible with the charging system.
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
So I have been working on some mounting tabs. I ran out of metal until today now I am finally restocked. A few more minor trims and they will be getting welded to the frame. The new mounts for the ignition coils are finished and welded on. I started looking at my front forks the other night and need some info.
Better to replace the shocks with an upgraded version or rebuilt the existing ones with better springs?
Also on the triple tree a few of my stop tabs are busted off, any ideas on replacements or just go OEM?
btw what is the upgrade for ignition coils? Or does everyone use OEM?
Better to replace the shocks with an upgraded version or rebuilt the existing ones with better springs?
Also on the triple tree a few of my stop tabs are busted off, any ideas on replacements or just go OEM?
btw what is the upgrade for ignition coils? Or does everyone use OEM?
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
Some more progress pictures.
mounting tabs for side panels
had to make a make shift break because my vise wasn't cutting it. It's the 2x4 with the hinges attached to my work bench. Used a piece of 3/8 inch thick steel, few bolts, a handle I had laying around and bam it bends metal. Ghetto as hell but worked in a pinch until I can build a better one.
start of the seat pan. Made it 3 pieces to accommodate the bending in the frame. That's was freshly welded, looked much better after I cleaned it up.
seat pan welding 16 gauge sheet metal is a pain in the dick. Tac after tac! Haha. Welds cleaned up nice though.
its almost finished just have to finish the tac welds. Fits pretty good though. This being my first build of any kind I was rather satisfied with this end result.
mounting tabs for side panels
had to make a make shift break because my vise wasn't cutting it. It's the 2x4 with the hinges attached to my work bench. Used a piece of 3/8 inch thick steel, few bolts, a handle I had laying around and bam it bends metal. Ghetto as hell but worked in a pinch until I can build a better one.
start of the seat pan. Made it 3 pieces to accommodate the bending in the frame. That's was freshly welded, looked much better after I cleaned it up.
seat pan welding 16 gauge sheet metal is a pain in the dick. Tac after tac! Haha. Welds cleaned up nice though.
its almost finished just have to finish the tac welds. Fits pretty good though. This being my first build of any kind I was rather satisfied with this end result.
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Joe Garfield
Guest
Looks like you're having fun with this one - keep it up! 
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
I decided that I didn't want to see the back of the tank so I added another piece to the seat pan. Its not complete yet but its coming along.
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Seems like some people upgrade their forks to newer GSXR forks (and rear ends) and others just recommend upgrading the springs in yours to Progressive brand springs. User RichDesmond here is the owner and a regular member.
I will likely upgrade one of my project bikes wth GSXR forks and just adapt the head bearings with an All Balls kit. On my other I'll just upgrade the springs and follow along what you do to yours and others here in the meantime since it'll be a little while before I get to mine.
I don't know about the stop tabs but as far as the coils go seems like the people that upgrade prefer the Dyna's or just do the coil relay mod and stick with OEM.
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ShadowFocus603
Guest
Sonic straight rate springs have been reviewed as superior to the Progressive springs. Sonic sells them in different rates depending on your weight and riding style. They even have a calculator on their site to help you sort it out.
+1 on the Sonic springs. I have progressives in my 750 and Sonic in my 1100. Much prefer the Sonics.
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growler
Guest
Thank you for doing this. So many folks leave the gap there and half ass the job. I think this will look better and also feel better on your junk.
I decided that I didn't want to see the back of the tank so I added another piece to the seat pan. Its not complete yet but its coming along.
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
Thank you for doing this. So many folks leave the gap there and half ass the job. I think this will look better and also feel better on your junk.
I wasnt a fan of the look with the gap, I dont want to see the tank pressed edges. My junk will appriciate it I am sure of it!
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
Took some time off for a family vacation, got back on Tuesday and had some parts waiting for me. More progress pictures. Rear seat cowl build.
Fender I cut the cowl from, It as 11.5" wide so I had to make it skinnier to fit like I wanted.
Rear seat cowl after cutting and welding and cutting more
Rear cowl all cleaned up
The hole is going to be where I mount my tail/brake light. Saw something similar on another bike and stole the idea, put a twist on it and made it my own.
Fender I cut the cowl from, It as 11.5" wide so I had to make it skinnier to fit like I wanted.
Rear seat cowl after cutting and welding and cutting more
Rear cowl all cleaned up
The hole is going to be where I mount my tail/brake light. Saw something similar on another bike and stole the idea, put a twist on it and made it my own.
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
Got the tail light in. And mounted the panel that will house the electrical. New R and R and new fuse box. Looking for some feedback.
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
Ok need some motor heads to take a look at some pictures or tag a motor post. I started pulling off the valve cover and side covers. Motor looks really clean aside from a few leaks. Just want a second opinion. I'll get more pics up soon.
Looking good. How does it look when lit up?
I like what you've done with the rear cowl. Looks like you went with the Polaris SH775 R/R?
I like what you've done with the rear cowl. Looks like you went with the Polaris SH775 R/R?
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Stockis4bitches
Guest
Light looks good lit up. 2 position so it glows brighter when I hit the brake. The R/R is a direct replace from eBay. Ran me about $50. I have to put the finishing touches on the rear cowl then it's off to paint.
