G
Guest
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Well in theory I got the clutch adjusted... I say in theory because spinning the rear wheel by hand with the clutch lever pulled in is quite stiff, but I'm hoping it's simply that it needs some running to free up properly after sitting for so long.
This is the first time I've tried the clutch since the engine rebuild.
I used Ed's steps from Oldrookie's clutch issue thread:
I also thread locked the tank badge screws in place because I'm paranoid about losing them before I decide if I'm going to paint the badges or leave them be.
I really hope I get the seat back on Friday... if I don't, I'm gonna be really pushing my luck to get this on the road before Christmas...
This is the first time I've tried the clutch since the engine rebuild.
I used Ed's steps from Oldrookie's clutch issue thread:
Step 1) Turn in the cable adjusters at both the handle bar lever and where the cable goes into the case. You want maximum cable free play at the lever.
Step 2) Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster.
Step 3) Turn in adjuster until you JUST START TO FEEL resistance then back the adjuster off 1/4 turn and tighten locknut.
Step 4) Check feel at the lever. There should be some free play at the lever, but not a whole lot. If you don't know what free play is please ask.
Step 5) If necessary, tighten the cable further until you have a small amount of cable free play with the lever released, but not much. You must have lever free play or the clutch will slip.
I also thread locked the tank badge screws in place because I'm paranoid about losing them before I decide if I'm going to paint the badges or leave them be.
I really hope I get the seat back on Friday... if I don't, I'm gonna be really pushing my luck to get this on the road before Christmas...












