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1981 GS550T - splitting cases question

  • Thread starter Thread starter D-Mac
  • Start date Start date
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D-Mac

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ARGH. OK. So I'm trying to split the cases on my parts-bike to remove the crankshaft (part of a swap-out). It's a 1981 GS550T. No go yet. Here's my situation.... I've got the clutch basket and related stuff off, gear selector mechanism off, the locking plates on both sides off, the bolts inside the side covers and down in the oil pan off , and the long bolt near the oil pressure switch off. Basically, every bolt off I can see from any angle (30 case bolts out in total + one nut - see below). I checked the Suzuki manual and my Clymer and I seem to have everything out. Of course the two manuals disagree with each other, but I don't have any other bolts they show. There is one weird thing though - I have what appears to be a stud, shown in the photo below. My first thought was that maybe a previous owner snapped off a bolt, but it had a nut on it and I'm now thinking this is a stud that threads into one case, runs through the other and uses the nut to hold them together. Kinda weird, but given the location, I suppose it might make sense (hard to get enough clearance to slip a full bolt in/out of that area). Here's the pic of what I think might be a stud.
0464FD2C-52EF-4F5A-A078-E963AB80EE4A-7230-00000981D001ACA9.jpg
Is this normal? Here's a link to a parts diagram that seems to show what might be the stud as #12 and the nut I removed as #13. If this is the case, I shouldn't need to remove the stud to separate the cases, right? I can't get the double-nut technique to work on it (too few threads showing), but before I go even MORE crazy with my deadblow hammer, I want to make sure I'm not missing something here..... The cases aren't budging at all.
 
Link to parts diagram isn't working, but under "crankcase" for this bike it's #12 (stud?) and #13 (nut?) for this bike.
 
It's just a stud, it's not holding the two halves together. Btw make SURE all the bolts on the bottom of the engine are taken out, as well as the ones inside the oil pan. On mine there was one more bolt on the top of the block near the oil pressure sensor that wasn't marked well in the manual (and it was hidden under a layer of grunge).

Also, remove the clutch basket assembly and take off the metal piece behind it... That part isn't listed in the "splitting cases" chapter of the manual but if you don't it's impossible to get the two parts split. Don't ask me how I know lol :o
 
Toasty said:
It's just a stud, it's not holding the two halves together. Btw make SURE all the bolts on the bottom of the engine are taken out, as well as the ones inside the oil pan. On mine there was one more bolt on the top of the block near the oil pressure sensor that wasn't marked well in the manual (and it was hidden under a layer of grunge).

Also, remove the clutch basket assembly and take off the metal piece behind it... That part isn't listed in the "splitting cases" chapter of the manual but if you don't it's impossible to get the two parts split. Don't ask me how I know lol :o
Click to expand...

Yup. Both of those things are done. Thanks for the info about the stud though! Helps to know I'm not fighting something there. Other thoughts folks?
 
Did you take off the signal generator (I think it's called)? It bolts to both halves of the case. Other then that, just take a break and relook over it later. There is most likely a small bolt somewhere that is still attached.


It could just be the cases glued together, that old non-drying sealant eventually dries and the steel pins can get corroded.
 
Toasty said:
Did you take off the signal generator (I think it's called)? It bolts to both halves of the case. Other then that, just take a break and relook over it later. There is most likely a small bolt somewhere that is still attached.


It could just be the cases glued together, that old non-drying sealant eventually dries and the steel pins can get corroded.
Click to expand...

Yup.
Removed it.

I've spent 15 minutes a day for the past three days trying to sort this out. I might need to mess around with the jacking points next...?
 
Hope this picture may help you as previously I opened up my crankcase to change the transmission bearing;

picture.php


picture.php

Notice the red circle, you need to remove clutch basket to remove the 2 bolts. Then you good to go to split the crankcase. Happy splitting... :D
 
Thanks guys. Clutch basket has been removed, as well as the long bolt near the oil pressure switch and the bolts under the starter.

I'm pretty sure I have them all out. The cases have a LOT of "goo" around them (way more than they should have I think), so I'm thinking a previous owner really went nuts putting them together. I've been hitting the edges with PB blaster and a little heat. I'll get a bit more aggressive this weekend.
 
Thanks guys. Clutch basket has been removed (along with the plate and two bolts behind it), as well as the long bolt near the oil pressure switch, and the bolts under the starter.

I'm quite sure I have all the fasteners out. The cases have a LOT of "goo" around them where they seal (way more than they should have), so I'm thinking a previous owner really went nuts gluing them together. I never use more than a very thin film of Yammabond 4 on cases, and I've never had any leak.

I've been hitting the edges with PB blaster and a little heat. I'll get a bit more aggressive this weekend (don't worry - no screwdrivers or chisels will be used!!). So far, nothing has budged.

If you've seen my build thread, you'll know that this project has been a massive exercise in patience. This part will be no exception, since I get to pull the actual engine and strip it down (again) after I get this one open.
 
PB Blaster won't do squat. You need to pry the cases apart, just don't lever on the gasket surface. A rubber mallet may help.

BTW, Threebond 1194 is the proper sealer for the case halfs.

Good luck
 
Did you get bolt #8 in the fiche? It's been a couple of years, but I remember there's one bolt and one nut from the top that need to be removed. You got the nut, I think #8 is the bolt, by the oil pressure sender.

Also note that front and back of the crankcase have jack slots and eyelets where you can slip a bolt and nut to help pry the cases apart.

10.gif
 
BTW, are you keeping the crankcase bolts separated? Having a count will help ensure that you got everything. There are 29 bolts from the bottom by my count (not including the bolts for the oil pan itself), one bolt from the top, and a nut from the top. you already got the bearing retainer and sig gen which can hold it from the sides.
 
Yup. That's my exact count 29+1 (which is #8) plus one nut.

I'll post my progress.
 
OK, you should be golden then. I had no luck beating it with the mallet. Using bolts through the jack points as shown got it done in just a few turns (this is the front one, under cylinder #3 - there's also one in the back).

IMG_0234.jpg
 
mike_of_bbg said:
OK, you should be golden then. I had no luck beating it with the mallet. Using bolts through the jack points as shown got it done in just a few turns (this is the front one, under cylinder #3 - there's also one in the back).
Click to expand...

Thanks! I've read that this technique works, and the pic is very helpful.

I'm trying to set aside some time to spend in my shop tomorrow night. I'll post my results (hopefully some nice shots of an open crankcase).
 
It's off! A small nut and bolt at each jack point, two turns and it came right off. Now to check the crankshaft, pull my main engine, and get it apart.

***Anyone here ever swap cranks without pulling the whole top end? I just rebuilt the whole top end and I'm not excited about ordering another head gasket (and base gasket). There is quite a taper on the bottom of each cylinder...I wonder if I could feed the pistons up.
 
Congrats on getting the cases split. That threebond is pretty good stuff.

My top end was already apart when I split my cases. I imagine that it could be done though (feeding the pistons from the bottom). You'll at least have to pull the cams and the tensioner to take the cam chain out with the crank: and don't forget to put it on the replacement crank!

Just out of curiosity, what's wrong with the crank? Mine was twisted. If you replace the crank and have not bought the replacement yet, watch the clutch basket gear side. The earliest year or two had straight gears before they went to bevel gears.
 
I suppose you could remove the crank without getting a new head gasket, if you kept the top end torqued. I bet it would be a giant PITA to feed the pistons back into the liners though.
 
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