1982 GS 1100 EFork Seal Replacement

[Turtleface]

Alright, I'm all sorts of ready to replace my weeping fork seals. Figured I'd steal my roommate's digital camera and take pictures along the way, and post them in this here thread thingamajig. I just wanted to have the GS community double check my parts selection, to make sure I don't forget some small piece that holds up my project for weeks while I wait for pieces to ship. Anyways, let's take a look at the fiche:

I need two each of numbers 5, 10, 24, 6, 16 and, 26, right? Assuming I need to change the teflon bushings.

 

[Guest]

I would reuse 5, 10 & 24 if they weren't damaged or excessively worn.

I'll be doing the same to my 1100EX forks soon as well.

 

[bonanzadave]

This one took me by surprise...

15 & 16. They are NOT at your local hardware store. My damper rod bolts were so seized in that I came really close to stripping them. I started out with an allan wrench which is why the stripping occurred. I was smart enough to stop and get a serious snap on allan socket for a 3/8 drive ratchet before the damage was irreversible. It still took a couple days of PB blaster and a propane torch to budge them. They musta had the serious locktite on them. By then I had my local Slozuki parts guy round up the new bolts. Might have been easier with an impact gun but my compressor was down.

 

[posplayr]

Make your choice

Rubber Bits: 6,14,12,24,26
Plastic Bits:21
Teflon Coated Steel:10,8

It is possible to screw up 18,19 if you try.

Assuming you don't want to rebuild the anti-dives.

23 is replaced with progressive springs

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=836667&postcount=30

 

[Turtleface]

Make your choice

Rubber Bits: 14,12,24,26
Plastic Bits:21
Teflon Coated Steel:10,6

It is possible to screw up 18,19 if you try.

Assuming you don't want to rebuild the anti-dives.

23 is replaced with progressive springs

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=836667&postcount=30

Not rebuilding the anti-dives, going to render it inoperative with the banjo bolt trick, until I can get plates made and stainless lines to do the brakes properly. Got a pair for Progressives from a friend. I've got some time off next week, and would really like to knock this out in a day or two, so I'm just trying to cover all my bases on parts to order. Bike's only got 15k miles on the odometer, so I think the teflon coated steel parts should probably still be within service limits. The bike sat for a while, and I'm pretty sure the seals just dried out from lack of lubrication. Everything I've had to open up on the bike so far (engine top-end, tires, spark plugs, cam tensionser) has looked great, mechanically speaking, but I'm trying to err on the side of caution.

6 is the fork seal itself, right? It looks like 8 is supposed to be the teflon slide for the damper rod? At least, that's the way the parts description from Bike Bandit makes it out to be. I haven't been inside these things before, so I don't have much for a frame of reference.

 

[posplayr]

6 is the fork seal itself, right? It looks like 8 is supposed to be the teflon slide for the damper rod? At least, that's the way the parts description from Bike Bandit makes it out to be. I haven't been inside these things before, so I don't have much for a frame of reference.

Sorry, I breezed through to fast; You are correct.

 

[Turtleface]

Excellent. Parts are on their way. As soon as they get here, I'll post pictures of the disassembly/reassembly procedure, along with any tips/pitfalls along the way.

As for the special tool to facilitate the removal of the hex bolt on the bottom of the forks, the standard practice is 1/2" all thread with two jam nuts on either end? What size nuts should I use?

 

[Guest]

Excellent. Parts are on their way. As soon as they get here, I'll post pictures of the disassembly/reassembly procedure, along with any tips/pitfalls along the way.

As for the special tool to facilitate the removal of the hex bolt on the bottom of the forks, the standard practice is 1/2" all thread with two jam nuts on either end? What size nuts should I use?

Some of us use an inverted spark plug socket at the end of a long rachet extension (or a few extensions ganged together). You can buy some inexpensive extensions at Harbor Freight, simply push the plug socket on backwards and , ta-da, you have your very own Suzuki "special" tool...

The wrench flats on the end of the plug socket fit nicely into the depression down inside the fork tube & allow you to then unscrew that rod damping bolt on the bottom of the forks...

Not sure about the size, but I seem to remember using perhaps the 5/8" plug socket (16mm)?? I think if you look at the "special" tool in the service manual at the section where it describes the fork tube removal it gives the size in mm of the internal piece.

5/8 = 16mm
11/16 = 17.5mm
3/4 = 19mm
13/16 = 20mm
7/8 = 22mm

Good luck - I'll be doing the same fork re-build on my 1100EX next week.

 

[Turtleface]

Some of us use an inverted spark plug socket at the end of a long rachet extension (or a few extensions ganged together). You can buy some inexpensive extensions at Harbor Freight, simply push the plug socket on backwards and , ta-da, you have your very own Suzuki "special" tool...

The wrench flats on the end of the plug socket fit nicely into the depression down inside the fork tube & allow you to then unscrew that rod damping bolt on the bottom of the forks...

Not sure about the size, but I seem to remember using perhaps the 5/8" plug socket (16mm)?? I think if you look at the "special" tool in the service manual at the section where it describes the fork tube removal it gives the size in mm of the internal piece.

5/8 = 16mm
11/16 = 17.5mm
3/4 = 19mm
13/16 = 20mm
7/8 = 22mm

Good luck - I'll be doing the same fork re-build on my 1100EX next week.

Sounds good. I know I have a spare plug socket around, and I'm pretty sure I've got about four feet of extensions from when I had to do the h-pipe on my Mustang a few years ago.

I probably won't get parts until late next week, so maybe we'll end up doing them at the same time. Take lots of pictures! Let's compare our progress and see where we can make things easier for the next person to have to do this.

 

[Turtleface]

Hmm, it seems I forgot to order fork oil while I was shopping for parts online. What's the recommendation? I've got Progressives on the way, and will be disabling the anti-dive, will also forgo using air in the forks. I weigh about 170, and ride in a mild-to-spirited manner. I don't really push the bike terribly hard on the streets, and all my long distance rides are mostly leisurely cruises. Standard 15W? I read something today that indicated the oil should be approximately the viscosity of ATF. I know Sikolene's Pro stuff is approx. ATF viscosity at an API rating of 7.5W. Is that going to be too light? API ratings aren't really standardized very well. Perhaps it's just going to be a try and see kinda thing?

Any tips on refilling the forks with oil after all the mechanical bits are in place?

 

[Steve]

Once upon a time, I read in an article on suspension tuning that you should use the lightest oil that gets the (damping) job done. :-k

I know I am comparing apples to oranges, but the previous owner of my Wing had Progressives installed up front, and had 15w fork oil installed. After about half an hour on a ride, my wrists would be hurting from all the sudden jolts from the irregularities in the road. I drained the 15w and installed 10w, problem solved. I still have adequate damping and have done many day rides over 500 miles.

Getting back to similar fruit, my wife's 850L still has stock springs in the forks, but I changed the seals and installed 10w fork oil. Rather cushy ride with the stock springs, but it is nicely damped.

.

 

[Turtleface]

Once upon a time, I read in an article on suspension tuning that you should use the lightest oil that gets the (damping) job done. :-k

.

Figuring this one out first hand, myself. In a round about way, that is. I originally had my rear shock damping adjusters set at four, along with my front forks. I rode if for a week like that, and then popped them both down a number. Each time I go down, the ride gets better. Too much damping, it seems, can also cost you traction. Now I'm at two in the back, and one in the front, and I think this is the best place for me, at the moment. Can't really judge the front too well, since it's been leaking fork oil, I'm sure it's damping abilities are compromised.

 

[Guest]

Hmm, it seems I forgot to order fork oil while I was shopping for parts online. What's the recommendation? I've got Progressives on the way, and will be disabling the anti-dive, will also forgo using air in the forks. I weigh about 170, and ride in a mild-to-spirited manner. I don't really push the bike terribly hard on the streets, and all my long distance rides are mostly leisurely cruises. Standard 15W? I read something today that indicated the oil should be approximately the viscosity of ATF. I know Sikolene's Pro stuff is approx. ATF viscosity at an API rating of 7.5W. Is that going to be too light? API ratings aren't really standardized very well. Perhaps it's just going to be a try and see kinda thing?

Any tips on refilling the forks with oil after all the mechanical bits are in place?

There's almost as much chatter here about fork oil weights, as there is about tire brands/models... lots of different opinions & preferences. A search should find enough data to put you to sleep.

I have an 850GL (I weigh 185) with progressive's in the front & I refilled with the OEM recommended 15W fork oil. IMHO, it's too stiff for me & I wish I had used 10W.

Last year I replaced the seals in my "now sold" 750LX (kept the OEM springs) and refilled that with a 50/50 mix of 15W fork oil & ATF. I liked that set-up very much - far superior to the 850 ride.

One "wildcard" in this whole scheme is the spacers you may, or may not use on top of your springs to set the preload. Again lots of stories & info here about what different members have done regarding those.

Good luck,

 

[Guest]

As for the special tool to facilitate the removal of the hex bolt on the bottom of the forks, the standard practice is 1/2" all thread with two jam nuts on either end? What size nuts should I use?

I just disassembled my front forks this evening - I used a 13/16 spark plug socket which had .750 (19mm) hex wrench flats on it. They fit perfectly into the 19mm hex depression down the fork tube. Course mine was a 1981 (EX) fork, so I'm not 100% positive it's the same size as yours...

I used a couple lengths of 3/8" extensions to reach down the tube. I had a small piece of .750" hex bar (about 2" long) and used that to attach the spark plug socket to a 19mm socket at the end of the extensions...