1982 GS1100E jetting - looking for recommendations

[Anonymous]

I have a 1982 GS1100E that I just recently picked up. It's running fairly well but the plugs are really white. I haven't been able to pick up a manual yet but I was wondering if someone can give me a rough idea as to what jet size to run. It's got the stock exhaust and air filter but I do have a K&N I'd like to put in it and am also looking for a 4 into 1. The main jets are 112.5 and the pilots are 47.5. Can anyone tell me what the stock sizes are? I was thinking of installing the K&N, going to a 125 main, leaving the pilots alone and shimming the needles. Should I go bigger on the mains/pilots?

 

[Mr. Jiggles]

I just rejetted my '82 1100e, shortly after rebuilding the carbs. The bike had a header on it and the plugs were fairly white before the re-jetting. The stock mains were 107 and with the rebuild kit I brought it up to 115. The pilot jets are 45. The 115 main did nothing to richen the mixture as indicated by the plugs.
I used a dynojet jet kit which involved switching to their 115 mains and an adjustable jet needle. The taper on the needle was much narrower that the stock and the height is adjustable. The pilot jet remained stock. The plugs are now the proper color.

Jeff

 

[Anonymous]

What did the Dynojet consist of? Mains, needles, springs? Anything else?

 

[pano]

When my 82 gs1100e was originally rejetted with the stock airbox and 4-1 exhaust my mains were 122.5. Looking back I think it was running a little lean. This was done at a Suzuki shop back in the 80's.

I (this spring) rejetted the bike with a dynojet kit and installed individual K/N filters. The kit included slide springs, adjustable needles and main jets. I think it included pilot jets too.

The kit came with 138 mains, I bumped it to 140's. I really did not notice much difference between the 138's and 140's. The needles have about 6 levels of adjustment. Small washers available at Radio Shack allow for 1/2 adjustments. Dynojet recommends initially installing the needles on the 3rd notch from the top. I have raised the needles 2 full notches so I have the needles set on the 5th notch down. I think the plugs look good and the bike runs fine. Before I raised the needles the bike would sputter off idle and get worse as it warmed up. The only difference from stock is the bike needs a couple or 5 minutes to warm up before running smoothly.

Changing the pilot jets was optional. I didn't touch them.

The kit includes drill bits. You must drill out the auxillary hole in each diaphram slide. Note, before you do it the holes are at an angle. Slide something thru the hole to eyeball it before you drill.

Dynojet tech service was very helpful when I had questions.

Do some searches and reading here. Some people recommend retaining the stock airbox. I have had not problems going to the individual airfilters except hair loss trying to get the jetting right.

Sinking the carbs is a must so you should get a carb sinking tool. A Clymer manual will outline the procedures.

I think I hit most of it

 

[Anonymous]

I have a set of carb sync guages so that won't be a problem. I think I'll install the K&N filter and jump up to 125's on the mains and shim the needles a little. I won't bother with the pilots or drilling out the slides at this point. Thanks for the info.

Sean