1982 GS300 Project - Where do I start

[hjacobmiller]

Yep... That sounds about right. :lol:

Took her out for a couple errands today and took "the long way home" also known as I went 100% the opposite direction of home and went for a ride.

Topped her off for a whopping $2.52 and headed west!

I'm going to spend some time putting together a list of things I'd like to do over the next few months and then maybe you all could throw in some advice about where to start and prioritize things.

For the time being, I'm just gonna ride!

 

[hjacobmiller]

Pete - do you have CV or VM carbs?

Trying to do some research on re-jetting & such and I just wondered if you ran into a lot of the headaches I've heard with CV carbs because the jet needle isn't adjustable.

Still working on that list...

 

[Guest]

CV carbs on mine, and pretty sure all the twins from around that era have CV carbs.

I *think* the difference is that on the CV carbs the throttle opens the butterflies whereas on the VM carbs the throttle lifts the slide.

As for the needle, I'm lucky there as over here in Aus we didn't have the same emissions laws back then meaning my mixture screws were never sealed and my needles are adjustable.

I have yet to properly tune my carbs, but being CV carbs tune from the mains down.

I'm planning on going the overkill expensive route and getting a wideband analyser to do mine, the theory being I can used it on other bikes as well.

 

[hjacobmiller]

Yeah I thought you had CVs...

I'm wondering if the pod route is worth looking into. It is just such a pain to deal with that airbox and it is so ugly and space consuming.

I'm curious if any 300s or 250s switched to PODS. I don't want to start a thread because I'll tick off a bunch of people ha ha. I'll try searching for some.

Have you read this thread?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=175170

Wondering if there is any merit to it...

Working on my write up to Dynatek and thinking about how much of a mess I want to get into this winter..

 

[Guest]

Well about 75% of the reason I put my pods on was to get rid of the airbox, I think Suzuki designed the frame around the airbox on the 450's

20% was because I wanted that area open as I knew I couldn't keep the side covers with the high pipe.

5% was because I wanted her to be able to breathe easy with the new pipe.

That thread seems to have some merit, go to www.motorcyclecarbs.com and you'll see that sort of info.

I have a feeling I've posted that link before somewhere? Maybe not...

I'm sure you won't be the first to put pods on a 300, but starting a thread... well... yeah... I can tell you now you'll get the typical re-jet answers which you know already, so I'd save the thread until you're actually trying to tune it and maybe asking for comments on plug colours or something.

Make your winter messy and worthwhile

 

[hjacobmiller]

Ha yeah, I think that was what they started with on the 300 as well. "Now that we've got this plastic box, let's weld *&$! around it..."

I've watched a couple videos of people using the Gunson Color tune. It looks pretty easy to work with...

Maybe I'll look into that as a cheaper alternative to tune with...

Interesting...

I should be able to post my "want to do" list later today. May be a bit ambitious, but hopefully will be a good starting point.

 

[Guest]

The Colortune is an excellent tool, but has limited use for jetting with the throttle open. To get a proper idea you need load on the engine when doing part and full throttle checks, so that's difficult with the Colortune.

I have one here which I'll be using to dial in the mixture screws once I get the mains and needles sorted.

 

[hjacobmiller]

Yeah I guess there is no way to test under load stationery, or at least with the limited tools I have.

So, here is what I am thinking as a tentative to do list currently. I am completely open to thoughts comments and concerns, and I don't really know where to begin. It will be over a month before I can really start tearing into things given my state exams and fall busy season for us tax folk starts in about two weeks.

Here's what I've put together.

1. Engine - Does anyone have any suggestions about anything else I can to do to get the bike running tip-top before I start making any changes? I’ve done pretty much everything on the welcome list. I don't think I have the skills or no-how to take the dive into a complete rebuild. I would like to clean externally as well as possible and maybe paint the lower case. I don't think Mechanix (you still around?) wants me tearing into an engine any time soon.

2. Brakes & Wheel bearings. -Needs to be done ASAP. Sure the original ones are on there. Bearings not a huge rush, but would like to do.

3. Tires - Any recommendations? Was thinking white walled but finding it difficult to find in correct size. Obviously I prefer functionality over looks. I know very little of tires.

4. Shocks. Have not done the Progressive upgrade. Definitely will be looking into that as well as getting something for the back end too. Maybe some of those “shock absorbers” as you called them Pete

5. Carb rejet for pods and replace random pieces (one fuel ring could be better and the PO busted 1/2 of the carb sync screw so it has to be done w/needle nose, etc)

6. Seat/Fab some some sheet metal side covers/Relocate electronics

7. Strip to frame and paint everything (frame, tank, new seat, side covers, etc.)

10. Ride

Got a bit long... Sorry. Thoughts?

 

[razor02097]

Wheel bearings? Are yours bad?

I like the kenda challengers although they are a little squirrely in the wet.

Brake shoes for the front are expensive and I haven't found an aftermarket source for them....maybe you will have better luck

 

[hjacobmiller]

Wheel bearings? Are yours bad?

I like the kenda challengers although they are a little squirrely in the wet.

Brake shoes for the front are expensive and I haven't found an aftermarket source for them....maybe you will have better luck

Sorry, meant the brakes need ASAP. Wheel bearings are fine, but if I'm at it, why not?

 

[razor02097]

More work, more cost but hey its your bike

Another thing to consider is if you are thinking of a front end swap now is the time before pouring all your money in the stock setup.

 

[hjacobmiller]

More work, more cost but hey its your bike

Another thing to consider is if you are thinking of a front end swap now is the time before pouring all your money in the stock setup.

Well, I thought about that due to the drum brake in the front, but I don't know if I want to go to all of the trouble of that.

What advantages do you see for switching out the front end?

 

[razor02097]

Depends on the front end really.

Better forks, better brakes, wider tire.

 

[Guest]

If the right front end fits, there should be little work.

One of the later 250's might be a direct swap which would mean disc front end.

Heck a 400 or 450 front end might swap... If the fork slider diameters are the same and travel is the same I think that's the critical stuff...

 

[hjacobmiller]

What all would I need?

New triple trees or just the forks themselves?

Does the front end I put on change the rake or is that constant with the frame? If the rake were a bit shorter I wouldn't mind as it'd give it a less cruiser stance....

 

[Guest]

What all would I need?

New triple trees or just the forks themselves?

Does the front end I put on change the rake or is that constant with the frame? If the rake were a bit shorter I wouldn't mind as it'd give it a less cruiser stance....

Do some looking on Alpha Sports parts fiche's... use your part numbers in their lookup tool to see what other models they fit.

If later models use the same triple trees then you can just use the forks etc.

 

[hjacobmiller]

Steering stem is PN 51311-44100-291.

300, 250 and 450 all use it.

I don't know if I want to swap the forks out though. I mean that is gonna be at least $70 for the forks, at least another $50 or so for the calipers and bracket, plus pads, rotors and wheel.

Might be outta the budget for the time being. Other than changing I don't see a huge advantage to switching. You can't fit a much bigger tire on your 450 can you Pete?

Started stripping into the old seat pan and getting the old staples out. Looking and what I can cut back and taper the back end out to. I've been spending a little bit more time working on a drawing, but I really want to make sure I do the important things first before I get distracted on paint, etc.

 

[Guest]

Given your list, I'd be tempted to split it over two winters. First winter concentrating on mechanical stuff and second on cosmetic. That way it would take the pressure off having to rush it back together for summer...

I'm running a 100/90-18 on the front, but if you go the L path you can get a 19" front wheel which gives you better tyre choice.

 

[hjacobmiller]

I agree that rushing is the last thing I want to do with this project.

I may add another bullet to the list. Exhaust. New headers, gaskets and do the emgo upgrade like razor.

Left header was rusty on the underside near the manifold and the right was the one I switched to get rid of the cinch in the other thread. It had a fair amount of surface rust and bronzing when I got it.

Have to look into seeing what'd that cost to have new ones made. I suppose I could polish up and then wrap which may be a cheaper alternative.

Im really diggin those gaiters though Pete.

Side note: pulled the plugs today and from what I can tell they're spot on. Maybe a little lean on the rite side, but they are the same plugs I had on from before the cinch in the header was fixed.

I seem to have a slight hanging idle, which concerns me because I don't what I could do to seal up the airbox. Its not like alot of the others.

What else should I be thinking about mechanically to do? My newb ignorance is overwhelming.

BTW I think you and Razor are the only two that look at this thread ha ha.

 

[razor02097]

Try turning the mixture screws out another half turn. If the idle increases that is a good thing. Turn the idle knob to bring the idle back down. My 300 seems to like 2.5 turns on the mixture screw....more than 3.5 and there might be a jetting issue. The slow jet should be 17.5 stock.

Pete and I maybe the only one's posting on this thread but there are a lot of lurkers. There are 625 views, that's almost 30 views per day.