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1982 GS550L maybe needs valve adjustment???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Defore
  • Start date Start date
D

Defore

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OK so I've been building my bike for months now, figured out the ignition problems and now I'm with the carbs...or valves. I dipped and soaked for days, replaced all o rings etc... everything that the ppl on this website asked me to do. I put a stage 3 dynojet kit in it and a custom 4 into 2 exhaust. Now my problem is that it'll only idle when I have the gas full throttle but will die other wise. Since I'm doing body work to the gas tank I have it off and a funnel as my gas supply and yes the vacuum from the Carb is capped. Now here's the odd part, when it is about out of gas and none will spit from the intake of the Carb and it idles and runs perfect, but when I fill it up it only idles with the gas full throttle. Also when the k&n pods are on it, it runs even worse. So this is what I'm thinking... either carbs extremely out of sync (2 1/2 turns out) or my valves are wayyyy off? I did a compression test and it was only in the 30-50 psi range. At the time I didnt know to hold the throttle wide open so thats without the throttle open. Also cylinder one is for sure firing better then the rest. I say that because the header is hotter then the rest and only the side that cylinder one and two are, hot exhaust and more sound come from. Cylinder three and four are barley warm and just more like pressure coming out of the exhaust...except when it warms up/ almost out of gas then it barley gets better but still not even close to where it should be. So what do yall think?
Thanks in advance.
 
Ok thats what Im thinking. Theres a local shop here in gainesville thatll do it for $80. I went in and spoke with him today. He has 70s, 80s and racing bikes at his shop and a hayabusa on the dyno that hes putting a turbo on. Hes so far told me how to do everything from carbs to valves and Ive yet to spend a dollar with him. He'll also sync my carbs for $40. Is this a good deal for valves and to sync the carbs? I mean how much do shims cost?
 
Yes, check/adjust your valves. I'd suggest doing it yourself. There's a great guide on BassCliff's site.

When you put your carbs back together, did you bench sync them? The sync is not the idle screws (the ones set to 2-1/2 turns out), but the adjustment of the butterflies to each other: the screws with lock nuts between the carbs. If your carbs are way out of sync you may have butterflies way too open or closed. To bench sync, use a light to shine through the carbs and get the butterflies so they are all just BARELY, and evenly, open.

That it won't start with the pods on sounds like it's very rich. Having to open the throttle wide and that it runs better almost out of gas point that way, too. But then, if you're running on one cylinder only you'll have to push it hard to keep it going, too. Are you applying choke when trying to start it?

Oh, yeah, and with cold engine and not WOT those compression numbers are useless.
 
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Because it runs better as it is running out of gas, I am wondering if maybe your floats are too high? :-k

If you set them to a value lower than the 22.4 mm specified, the fuel level will be higher and the carbs will run richer.

What mike_of_bbg was saying about bench sync ... here is what you are looking for:

IMG_3451.jpg


The adjustment to synchronizee the carbs is that screw and locknut assembly just left of dead center in the picture.

Watch the sliver of light under the butterflies as you turn the sync screw.

.

.
 
Defore said:
Ok thats what Im thinking. Theres a local shop here in gainesville thatll do it for $80. I went in and spoke with him today. He has 70s, 80s and racing bikes at his shop and a hayabusa on the dyno that hes putting a turbo on. Hes so far told me how to do everything from carbs to valves and Ive yet to spend a dollar with him. He'll also sync my carbs for $40. Is this a good deal for valves and to sync the carbs? I mean how much do shims cost?
Click to expand...

Just curious, which shop? Roland Stuart?? Never been there but I hear he's good if you can't do it yourself.
 
1948man said:
Just curious, which shop? Roland Stuart?? Never been there but I hear he's good if you can't do it yourself.
Click to expand...


I'm in Gainesville Florida and the shop is pep motor. He's awesome always answering questions and never asks me to bring it in 1st.

But yea ill adjust the screws so there a little open I thought they were suppose to be closed.
 
OK i just tried to check the valve clearance with my feeler but it only went down too. 008 (.203mm)and it was to tight to fit that. Shouldn't it be .03-.08?
 
Yep - too tight. Needs a shim replacing on that one.

$80 seems a good price to me to do a valve clearance check. The shop could easily lose an hour cleaning off a stuck and busted cam cover gasket.
 
Lol yea except all of them r that tight. I just grabbed a feeler that goes to .0015 so if this doesn't work I'm screwed. But yea I asked what it charge me if i came up there with the valve cover off and to have all the shims done and $80 to was. How expensive are shims btw?
 
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Ok bad news...I think. I just tried to start off with the smallest one (.0015) which in mm is (.038) aaaaand didnt even try to slide in. The shim will spin but still theres oil covering the two metals so of course they spin. Has anyone on this sight ever had valves this tight? Especially on a motor with 3k miles on it?
 
About $5 each new, or you can swap at the Shim Club

Valves tighten up the most in the first miles
 
It is generally considered that, if you cannot get even your smallest feeler in to check a valve, but the shim and bucket will turn easily in the checking position, that there is some clearance - it's just close to 0. If you go down one size on your shim, that puts you at 0.05 (or 0.07-0.08 if you're replacing an "x" size shim) clearance, and you're good.

For the valve checks it's always good to have a metric micrometer or digital caliper you can use to check the actual thickness of the shims. It's printed on the under-side, but invariably a couple of the shims will have the numbers worn off.

Metric feelers (for "the next time"). The 0.02mm is about like aluminum foil.

http://www.sourcingmap.com/length-0021mm-thickness-measure-feeler-gauge-p-128657.html

sourcingmap also has some micrometers starting in the $20 range. Yes, cheap tools - but seem to do the job well enough.
 
OK great. Thanks a lot. Also on the actual cam, how exactly should the sprockets line up. Like should the arrows be pointing at each other?
 
 
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