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1982 GS650GLZ electrical problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter bobnmarilynmaz
  • Start date Start date
B

bobnmarilynmaz

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O.K., well, I just got done changing an exhaust valve shim and was in the process of attempting to sync the carbs (the second time, apparently its easier to read the meter if you place some type of restricting things in the tubes so that the needles don't bounce as much: I was wondering what those little thingy's were for), anyway, while calibrating all the gauges, I hear a little ping, like something hitting metal at a high rate of speed. I didn't think much of it at this point until I stalled the bike, and went to restart it, only to find that my starter button wasn't there (I did find all the pieces, thank God).

Upon inspecting the button, and after disassembling the housing for the button, I found that it had broken (it looked that way on the outside, however, it seemed that it may have melted a bit on the inside, and I know that this is going to sound dumb, but I really couldn't say with certainty that it did melt, the break on the outside was clean, on the inside, the part with the little nipple and fins just under where that little copper contact goes, looked like it could have been affected by heat, but I'm not certain).

I attempted to get the bike to start, but to no avail (I thought that I should have been able to use a piece of wire or something to connect the contact points where the button is, I was wrong). Eventually, I repaired the button with super glue (which now has a billion and three uses), and put it back in, although I have yet to start it, the starter did engage (the battery was drained by a couple of hours of attempted testing).

Now here is the weird part. With the button missing, the turn signals did not blink until I removed the connector that from the starter button leading to the wiring harness. It would also blink when I removed the headlight connection. Furthermore, it seems as if the battery drained way to quickly, even for the amount of time that I had been testing things.

I am going to attempt to start it tomorrow, and see if the signals etc... all work. My question for right now is: has anyone had their starter button melt before (which is probably the case, soft on the inside, and hard on the outside, like a Klondike bar), and if so, what would cause it? And why would there be the problem with the blinkers? Is there something with the charging system that would cause a large surge affecting the starter button?

I will add more tomorrow when I get it running (I hope I get it running, the starter engaged a bit, but the battery was not strong enough to start the bike).

Your help is appreciated in advance.:confused:
 
I would check your fuses and make sure nothing blew in the process. If you still have the old glass type they can break where you can't see them. Test them with a power light and make sure first.

Plus you need decent juice from that battery so recheck them tomorrow after it charges.
 
thanks, I'll do that and let you know. Can this type of fuse box be replaced with some type of blade fuse system?
 
Yep. Do a search here as many of us have done it. Plus Basscliff has a writeup on his site from someone who did it.
 
Sounds to me like a short at stater button/ kill switch area, though you would think it should just blow the 10 amp ignition fuse since this fuse is pretty maxed out under normal circumstances.
 
If it were a short in this area, how would I go about determining that it is in fact a short?
 
bobnmarilynmaz said:
If it were a short in this area, how would I go about determining that it is in fact a short?
Click to expand...

Pull apart the throttle/starter assembly. Look for exposed wires and insulate them as necessary.

Make sure you have some extra fuses in case that doesn't work.
 
OK, so I spent the morning cleaning as many of the connectors that I could find (even pulled apart the ignition switch, somebody should really tell you that there are little springs and ball bearings in there), did the tests for the stator, which looked good. The r/r unit, not so good. So I have to replace that. The fuses were ok (although I am going to change over to a blade style unit), and there was no short in the starter/kill switch area.

The bike did start and runs (still need to finish the sync on the carbs and to set the fuel air mixture).

Reading in these article, I see that the Honda r/r's are much better; how do I go about getting the correct one for my bike?
 
Do a search using Advanced Search, Titles Only, R/R

You'll find almost 200 threads about it. One of the options is the Compufire but I don't know much about them...you'll want to talk to Posplayer since he seems to be the expert on how well they work.
 
I appreciate the advice, however, when I search for something that would tell me get this Honda r/r for this particular Suzuki (i.e., a replacement list), all I find is lists with a whole lot of numbers but no compatibility chart. So can I just take any r/r of any Honda, modify the wiring and slap it on my bike?
 
Found a correct r/r unit, but do have a question regarding the sense wire. Duaneage shows the orange wire from the fuse block connecting to the sense wire, which is supposed to go to the tail light switch. Looking at the schematic in my Clymer book, the orange wire leads to the ignition, and comes out brown to the tail light. There is a orange and green wire leading from the fuse block to the tail light switch (as well as several other devices). Do I connect the sense wire in series with the orange wire (like splicing it and attaching connectors on the orange wire); or do I connect it to the brown wire from the orange wire before the orange wire even gets to the ignition (where ever the female or male bullet end is for the tail light; or do I just connect it between the male and female connectors for the tail light? Is the schematic expressing that I insert the sense wire between in series with the orange wire which will eventually lead to the brown wire?

Probably should have gotten a five wire regulator.
 
The 6 wire units work fine. All you need is a switched 12V source. The taillight wire runs the length of the bike, so you can find it in the wiring harness and splice into it. It sounds like you have a wiring harness diagram, so just trace it down. You can also use the output of the "coil relay mod". There are a ton of variations for that one also.
 
I guess my question is: should I do it pre, or post ignition switch; i.e. the brown wire running from the ignition switch to the tail light itself which most likely has bullet end connectors, if I am not mistaken, I should be able to just connect it at that point by attaching a male and female bullet end to the rectifier sense wire. The only time that the sense wire should get juice is when I push the brake lever, right?
 
Post ignition. It will run right by your R/R. Just check it before doing any mods to make sure it has your 12V on it. The tail light is on whenever the switch is on.
 
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