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1982 GS850GL gets a (MOSFET) Shindengen FH012AA Rectifier/Regulater
joejeweler
Guest
I see,....much more accessable spot than on my '82 850GL. I didn't know any of the early GS's had the R/R located there. Wonder why they changed the location when it's "obvious" (as used by many of today's modern bikes) that the side is a more practicle spot. :lol:
joejeweler
Guest
Nope,...i did make use of the fold over bushing clamp/holders,.....2 on my swing arm to hold the rear brake hose in place.
BUT,......the hose was also fed thru the under part of the bracket that connects the bar from the rear caliper to the swingarm. (a bit dusty down there
)
The "original" (marked 7/81) rear brake hose was like this, with NO WAY either banjo end was going through!
....it'a a solid welded on bracket......so one banjo was fitted after the hose was run. (The caliper end most likely)
As i mentioned, the new rear brake line is shorter, and doesn't take the long route past the master cylinder and up & over only to come back to the MC for banjo hook up..
My current bike has a Compufire as recommended by Pos/Jim, but I've installed a few of these FET type R/R's and recommend them over the other shunt alternatives. Didn't feel like paying for those fancy connectors, although they are very nice, so the wires were attached with naked spade terminals and then the cavity was filled with MIL-SPEC grade silicone sealer that doesn't attack electrics (no acid). Looks a bit getto but works well.
Just accomplished this upgrade. Bike running/charging better than ever. $40 total investment... with use of Mike's top-shelf crimp tool. Thanks again Ness for the hook-up.
Im Faster
Guest
Im Faster
Guest
gearhead13
Guest
What is mil-spec silicone?? I bought a mosfet RR off of ebay. HMMMM, do I want to pay another $30 for the special connectors?My current bike has a Compufire as recommended by Pos/Jim, but I've installed a few of these FET type R/R's and recommend them over the other shunt alternatives. Didn't feel like paying for those fancy connectors, although they are very nice, so the wires were attached with naked spade terminals and then the cavity was filled with MIL-SPEC grade silicone sealer that doesn't attack electrics (no acid). Looks a bit getto but works well.
How do I tell which of the two connectors is pos/neg??
I used Dow Corning 3145. Low acid so it doesn't attack electrical connectors. It's pretty expensive. I think Permatex makes some RTV they advertise as "sensor safe". If you google "electronic grade rtv" there is lots of good info.... such as this... http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-261645.html
As for which wire goes where, look at the photos already posted in this thread and everything should be obvious.
