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doctorgonzo
Guest
Consensus on here is use the zip tie method not the shim tool. zip tie is both easier AND cheaper.
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chiphead
Guest
I just did a mileage check last night and got a little over 43 mpg with a 60/40 mix of two up back roads and single rider high speed highway blitzing.
And I'm sorry Dogma, but my 1100 DOES NOT sound like a sewing machine!\\
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And I'm sorry Dogma, but my 1100 DOES NOT sound like a sewing machine!\\
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Steve
GS Whisperer
Ahhh, maybe you should hear Dogma's sewing machine. It sounds like a well-tuned GS. :shock: :-\"And I'm sorry Dogma, but my 1100 DOES NOT sound like a sewing machine!\\
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chiphead
Guest
Yea, but how's it handle in the twisties?
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rrhuehn
Guest
Zip tie method? I will have to research that, haven't heard of it.
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ironsheik
Guest
You'll need a new valve cover gasket. I used a rubber Realgasket and recommend these but remember only torque to 15 INCH/pounds, not FOOT/pounds. You will need a shim tool unless this ziptie method works... I'm not familiar with that...
You can go two ways with the adjustment job. You can order a nice set from Z1 Enterprises for $100 which includes just about any shim you could need and do the job in an afternoon OR you could open up the top and check your clearances first. You might get away with swapping a couple of shims from valve to valve but it probably won't get them all done. Then you'll need to order the individual shims you've decided you need and wait to get the adjustment done.
Now that I think about it, does the '82 still use shims? I guess all the 8v models do until '83 or so?
I opted to buy the kit since I've thrown my lot in with GS's and will probably have a lot of valve adjustments in my future. ALTHOUGH, my new GS1100e doesn't need shims... Hmmm... Maybe I should sell 'em? I AM still hoping for a nice '78 GS1000 some day...
Josh
PS: Read this - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=105572&page=2
AND this - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=107491
and you'll have no problem getting this done. It's a bit of a mind-numbing experience the first time but just be patient and recheck everything.
PPS: I just got 41 MPG on a 70+ MPH highway jaunt. Have you sealed your airbox? Replaced airbox/carb rubber boots and o-rings?
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doctorgonzo
Guest
Look on basscliff's site. You open the valve, stick a zip tie in the spark plug hole between the valve and the valve seat, and the valve now can't close. When you rotate the cam the valve will stay open to change the shim. It can take a second to get the hang of it, but then it's actually easier than trying to get the shim tool to not pop off.
Dogma
Forum Sage
Well, since I apparently screwed up the installation of new fork seals last spring... not as great as last summer.
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rrhuehn
Guest
Mine is DOHC so I should not have shims then correct?
I have not replaced any boots, the ones to the motor from the carbs look good as new. The airbox boots are not as good shape but I have not replaced them. Far as sealign it up, you mean the new tape as on BassCliffs page? No have not done that either.
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doctorgonzo
Guest
I'm getting my first taste of them in the past few days. Finally got the crappy old tires replaced with the sport demons. Got about 200 miles on them now, so leaning a little further every day. I plan to keep going over til I hear that sound of the footpeg scrape. I ride with some guys on modern sport bikes on occasion, so they challenge me for sure.
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rrhuehn
Guest
Since I am learning a ton about my bike I have another question about the carbs. When I cleaned them I had a hard time with the CV Boot it would not stay in that ring for nothing, curl up etc when I put it back on. I have no doubt it's just mashed between the top cover and carb but it runs fine.
Should I worry about this, if I have a problem down the road can I get new boots or do I need the whole new needlevalve assembly?
any tips on how to get that boot to stay in the track when putting these back together?
Should I worry about this, if I have a problem down the road can I get new boots or do I need the whole new needlevalve assembly?
any tips on how to get that boot to stay in the track when putting these back together?
Consensus???
You didn't ask me.
The proper tool is way easier, quicker, and does no damage.
I used the zip ties while my tools were elsewhere, pain in the ass.
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doctorgonzo
Guest
Dogma
Forum Sage
Sounds like you read my first draft... I thought I edited it quickly enough! I've actually thought about fooling around in an empty parking lot to learn to trust it. Also, to work on those tight way-leaned-over U-turns you see in the books. Hopefully I can get my brakes rebuilt in time to catch the experienced rider class this summer. They still work OK (except the rear is dragging a bit), but I don't want the distraction while I'm trying to learn.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Do you have any kind of manual for your bike? All three of the popular manuals (Factory, Clymer, Haynes) have a decent section on how to adjust the valves. BassCliff's website has a nice pictorial. If you send me an e-mail with a request, I will respond with a copy of my spreadsheet that will help you keep track of your shims, and help you choose any new shims.
The concept of adjustment with shims is really rather simple. You measure the present clearance. If it is in spec, great. If not, you will need to change the shim. You may need a thinner shim to increase the clearance or a thicker one to decrease clearance. The shims come in specific sizes which happen to co-incide with the limits of the adjustment window, so you don't change anything unless it's out of spec.
Using the zip-tie method is certainly easier than using the "proper" tool, but I have had problems with that method. I will be trying it again in about a week or so, as I get my son's bike back together.
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