1982 GSX 400E stopped charging - which stator fits?

[firebird]

My (probably) 1982 GSX 400E (GK53CD) stopped charging the battery.

I've tested the RR (an Electrex RR 10) using instructions found in my Haynes manual (see attachment). The results were infinite resistance on all the measurements instead of the expected ohm values. So, it looks like my RR is fried. This assuming that the internal resistance in the RR10 is similar to the original part. Is there some other way to test an Electrex RR?

I've also tested the stator wires' resistances using instructions from the Stator Papers. I get 1.1 ohm between one pair, and infinite resistance between the other pairs, so I guess the stator is gone as well.

Now, I know the RR10 fits the bike, but which stator should I get? I've got no clue. It actually looks like Electrex lists the part that has the three yellow cables as a "Generator". Which one fits my bike? http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Generators_32.html

 

[tom203]

Is this stator off bike now? It's likely to be same as 450 model. Make sure you measure resistances carefully- with good multimeter. Checking rectifing diodes in any R/R is straiightforward- does your meter have diode test feature?

 

[Guest]

Hi and welcome!

First step I'd do is go through the stator papers just to be 100% you know where the issue is:

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm

I have an Electrex World stator on mine and so far so good, but i'm not sure if it would be the same as yours... I can't seem to find an '82 GSX400E on the parts fiche at www.cmsnl.com...

 

[firebird]

Is this stator off bike now? It's likely to be same as 450 model. Make sure you measure resistances carefully- with good multimeter.

Not yet, I'm thinking of taking it off in the next couple of days if I get the chance. Once it's off, it should be fairly trivial to just measure the dimensions and find one that matches those, right?

Checking rectifing diodes in any R/R is straiightforward- does your meter have diode test feature?

Yes, it does. I've done the tests from section C of the fault finding flow chart now:

The first ones give funky readings, the meter flashes a number around 1500, and then returns to the display it shows when the test leads are not connected to anything.

The tests from the second part give me readings between 420 and 460 volts. That's apparently bad.

The tests from the third part do the same flashy thing as the first ones.

The last tests give me readings between 430 and 460 volts. Again, notably more than the maximum of 1V it's meant to have.

 

[firebird]

Hi and welcome!
First step I'd do is go through the stator papers just to be 100% you know where the issue is:

I've done the section C tests on the RR. I also measured the resistances between the stator leads, as per section B, and those didn't look good: 1.1 ohm / infinite / infinite . I don't have an offline charger, so I can't really do all the other tests right now.

I have an Electrex World stator on mine and so far so good, but i'm not sure if it would be the same as yours... I can't seem to find an '82 GSX400E on the parts fiche at www.cmsnl.com...

I think it could be the same as "Suzuki GSX400 1982 (EZ)". Googling the frame number GK53CD or GK53C seems to suggest it is.

 

[tom203]

You need to review multimeter instructions. In diode test mode, a 400 to 600 display reading means a forward voltage drop of .4 to .6 (note decimal point)- a good diode! Reverse meter probes and the display might say "OL" or somesuch to indicate a very high resistance.

Head to Mr. Basscliff's for further overview on stator testing

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/stator_check.pdf

 

[Steel Toed Tank]

Firebird, just so we're clear here, your test on the R/R one way is around .420 to .460 on all three input wires?
I had trouble reading the fault finding chart for the diode test because my meter shows up to 4 numbers with no decimal. Good readings should be between 500-800 (with decimal it would be .500-.800)
The resistance test on the stator should read 0.5-2.0 ohms on all three legs. If this is not the case, stator is fried.
I know because I just had the same kind of thing happen, and I'm waiting for my parts in the mail as we speak.
My stator (while bike was running) tested 30v 30v 2.5v, should be 70v+ on all three.
My r/r tested fine one way ~.450 on all three, but the other way it tested OL, OL, 1144, or 1.144. Indicating a blown diode.

Now you said when you tested your R/R this way all three indicated that the leads were not connected? My meter reads OL, some read OF, some read infinity in this case.
Then your R/R may in fact be just fine!

I wouldn't go with electrosport products for your replacement parts though.
I know the brand is plastered all over the stator papers, but it seems many people have had problems with those products dying out much too early after installation.

I would also go with a Shindengen R/R from a Honda. It will make your stator last longer.
There are more than a few of them that will fir on our bikes, you'll just have to do a search.
I went with a SH532-12, but of course I'm still waiting for it to come it the mail so I can't attest to it's functionality, but while searching this forum I found many people using it, and recommending it or one like it.

If money isn't an issue you could also go with a Compu-Fire unit. I don't have any experience with those but you could do a search and see what you come up with.



Tank

 

[firebird]

Firebird, just so we're clear here, your test on the R/R one way is around .420 to .460 on all three input wires?

Yes.

I had trouble reading the fault finding chart for the diode test because my meter shows up to 4 numbers with no decimal. Good readings should be between 500-800 (with decimal it would be .500-.800)

The resistance test on the stator should read 0.5-2.0 ohms on all three legs. If this is not the case, stator is fried. I know because I just had the same kind of thing happen, and I'm waiting for my parts in the mail as we speak.
My stator (while bike was running) tested 30v 30v 2.5v, should be 70v+ on all three.

My stator leads read 1.1 ohm / infinite / infinite. Can't test while the bike's running at the moment, but I'll just assume the stator is fried.

My r/r tested fine one way ~.450 on all three, but the other way it tested OL, OL, 1144, or 1.144. Indicating a blown diode.

Now you said when you tested your R/R this way all three indicated that the leads were not connected? My meter reads OL, some read OF, some read infinity in this case.
Then your R/R may in fact be just fine!

Ok, that's a bit of good news, then!

I would also go with a Shindengen R/R from a Honda. It will make your stator last longer.
There are more than a few of them that will fir on our bikes, you'll just have to do a search.
I went with a SH532-12, but of course I'm still waiting for it to come it the mail so I can't attest to it's functionality, but while searching this forum I found many people using it, and recommending it or one like it.

Looks like that model has six wires instead of five. What's the extra wire for and what do I do with it?

 

[firebird]

You need to review multimeter instructions. In diode test mode, a 400 to 600 display reading means a forward voltage drop of .4 to .6 (note decimal point)- a good diode! Reverse meter probes and the display might say "OL" or somesuch to indicate a very high resistance.

Millivolts, huh? That small detail was omitted from the manual... So, it looks like my r/r is possibly good afterall.

Head to Mr. Basscliff's for further overview on stator testing

Ok, that was a good pictorial on replacing the stator. Will come in handy when I get to the replacing part.

Like I said, I've done the resistance test on the stator leads, indicating it's bad. I guess the next step is getting the stator out and checking the dimensions before I order a new one.

Now, it looks like I might get away with getting just a new stator and keeping my old r/r... but I have a feeling you'll tell me that's not a good idea?

 

[Steel Toed Tank]

That extra wire is a sense wire. You hook it up to an ignition switched wire and it senses how many volts your battery is up to, so it knows when to stop charging.

That's the simplified explanation anyways. Here is a link that tells you how to modify it for GS use, same instructions I will be following when I put mine together.

EDIT: some models will have 8 wires. they will have 2 ground wires and 2 live wires, but otherwise work the same way.


Instructions
List of compatible R/Rs (try to get one off the list on the bottom of the page)



Tank

 

[firebird]

My stator leads read 1.1 ohm / infinite / infinite. Can't test while the bike's running at the moment, but I'll just assume the stator is fried.

Interesting. I took the stator off and measured directly at the leads coming from it, instead of at the r/r end. Surprise surprise, I'm getting 1/1/1 ohm now!

It could be that it was just faulty wiring. The previous owner has clearly replaced the stator as well; There were rounded off screw heads on the clips holding the wires inside the crankcase cover, and there were so many splices in the wires between the stator, the r/r and the rest of it that one of them was bound to go bad eventually.

Here are the next steps I've planned:
- Get an offline charger, recharge the battery
- Get a new crankcase cover gasket
- Put it all together again, this time soldering all the wire joints
- Profit!

 

[Guest]

I have heard of dodgy bullet connectors on stators where the leads and connectors heat up because of too much resistance, and yes this will definitey influence your readings.