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1983 ES top end rattle

glib

glib

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Both of my bikes have clutch noise. I have read a bunch of threads so I have an idea what to do about this. But my ES has a noisy top end. It sound like a loose chain or just loose something. It's a rattle that doesn't go away with acceleration or RPMs. At first I didn't notice it because I thought I was hearing the clutch springs rattle but then I realized that my E is much quieter and the additional noise is coming from the top end.

When I adjusted the valve lash the chain seemed very tight. I only rotated the motor enough to accomplish the task and then closed her up. What could be loose? The bike runs great. Feels more smooth the more I ride it.

Thanks.
 
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Here is a recording of the noise. Toward the end of the recording I moved the mic closer to the gearbox and then back toward the head to help distinguish gearbox noise from the noise I am hearing in the top end.

http://vimeo.com/108479263
 
Lots of little parts on the 16 valve camshafts- maybe loose rocker, poor oiling. There seems to an replaceable axial shim on both camshafts according to parts fiches.
 
You guys are so wise. You knew it was a loose chain all along and that I'd discover it myself if I just got off my butt and opened it up.



I guess the chain seemed tight when I had it open before because I had turned the crank to adjust the valves.
 
Well, you did say this....."When I adjusted the valve lash the chain seemed very tight"
better make sure you understand how cam chain tensioner works- it seems to baffle folks with its simplicity!
 
tom203 said:
Well, you did say this....."When I adjusted the valve lash the chain seemed very tight"
better make sure you understand how cam chain tensioner works- it seems to baffle folks with its simplicity!
Click to expand...

I agree. So I took it out last night and examined it to see how it works. I am not certain but I think the "lock" part of the mechanism may have been jammed. I remember not being able to move it prior to removal but I didn't want to mess with it because I didn't know how it worked. The unit does seem to work properly and now I do understand how it works and why the install process is what it is. Hoping it will do the trick after I get the valve cover back on this morning.

Here's a question: Once the tensioner has moved forward and the "lock" has rotated so that the chain is indeed tight, if you push down on the section of chain across the cam gears, how much movement should you get? Seems like it should not move at all.
 
It's not clear you grasp tensioner reinstall, so go to this link and review step 13

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html
once installed the plunger shaft must freely move out to take up chain slack,BUT not push back. The setscrew needs to be backed off plunger shaft slightly (to let plunger move) and then locked in postion by locknut
 
tom203 said:
It's not clear you grasp tensioner reinstall, so go to this link and review step 13

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html
once installed the plunger shaft must freely move out to take up chain slack,BUT not push back. The setscrew needs to be backed off plunger shaft slightly (to let plunger move) and then locked in postion by locknut
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. Once I took the tensioner apart and could understand how it worked, the instructions from other threads regarding installation made much more sense. I believe I have it correctly installed and it is working properly. I am about to button it up and start it. I'll report shortly.
 
Happy to report that the engine is so quiet now I can hear a leak from the asbestos? sleeve connecting the exhaust under the motor. Really very nice.

I think the tensioner seems a bit mysterious only until you disassemble it and see it's simplicity.

Time to take a spin.
 
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