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1983 GS1100E - Starter Clutch Needs Love. Guidance?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phaedrus
  • Start date Start date
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Phaedrus

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So, my '83 GS1100E has been pinging loudly when cold starting (metal on metal sound). Over the past few months, her idle has been getting really lopey, like it's tripping over itself. I did some basic troubleshooting/maintenance--replaced spark plugs and caps, re-terminated the plug wires, tested for vacuum leaks, checked/adjusted valves, tested the battery, synced the carbs, tested compression. After verifying her health and patching her back up, the clunky idle lives on. I suspect my starter clutch is about to go :(.

Does anyone know of a walkthrough thread of someone who has ventured down this path before? I remember hearing somewhere that replacing an 1100E's starter clutch is particularly cumbersome.

I do have a manual and will be following it. Just wanted some words of caution/advice before I dive in.

Oh, and may be a totally unrelated symptom, but the bike has consistently popped out of 2nd gear back into neutral lately. Thought it might be sloppy shifting at first, but she's definitely having a trouble holding 2nd. Only seems to be an issue for second gear/neutral. If I'm super conscious of my shifting, I can mostly prevent it from happening.

Seems I have some work cut out for me...
 
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I have a 26 gallon and I've gotten stuck on a few. Had to go to a shop and use theirs which are closer to 100. I see a sixty at HF.
 
Bummer... A 60 is about what it would cost to have the a shop do the whole repair, no? Unfortunately, can't afford either at the moment. Will have to hold off and save pennies, I suppose. Or find a local with a tank they're willing to share.
 
The pinging doesn't not mean the clutch is bad, it means it is good but the bike is kicking back because it is not spinning fast enough.
 
Interesting. What's the solution if it's not spinning fast enough? New starter? New battery/more cold cranking amps? What about the lopey idle where the bike starts to trip up?


I posted this before and was unable to pinpoint the culprit. Lope is noticeable throughout the vid, but most obvious at ~27seconds in. Knocked out all of the obvious as stated in the OP. Could still be a vacuum leak somewhere, but couldn't locate one. The carb boots are all 100%. I figured the pinging + lopey idle = starter/clutch. Mind you, the issue gets worse as the bike heats up. This video was taken after a long, aggressive ride through the twisties. Oil temps ~190/200. Idle is often fine when cold.
 
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Pinging I'm talking about is when cranking to start. It can sound like a ball peen hammer to the cases.

I hear an exhaust leak (at 27 sec), but videos are notoriously difficult to diagnose from sound.
 
Pinging I'm talking about is when cranking to start. It can sound like a ball peen hammer to the cases.

I hear an exhaust leak (at 27 sec), but videos are notoriously difficult to diagnose from sound.

Yeah, ball peen hammer is what I hear when I try to cold start. Not every time, but a majority. And, you know, the exhaust is the one thing I didn't check when I looked over the bike. I'll have to really dig around. The header bolts are pretty crusty.

No idea how old the batt is either. I'll check the manufacturing date, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was 8+ years. PO redid everything, including the wiring harness. I've noticed that a few of the contacts are looking worn. I'll go ahead and clean the electricals up while I'm in there. Could easily have some resistance issues. Doesn't really explain why the idle gets worse as the bike gets warmer though. Exhaust or vacuum leak would make more sense.
 


Awesome, thank you. With the kick back I've been experiencing for the past few months, I still wouldn't be surprised if my starter clutch had been damaged to the point that it's affecting the idle...

Anyways, will inspect the zaust tomorrow. Will dig into the wiring as well, see about isolating the starter button form the switch... Cool idea.
 
Cool, 'cause I did not want to have to ef with it. That narrows it down to zaust/vacuum and electricals. Thanks for taking the time to nudge me in the right direction.
 
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uneven idle and starter clutch is related :D

Explain please?..:confused::D Or are you being rhetorical:confused:

In the Video it just sounds like it needs a good carb balancing and tune up to me?. and if I read the OP comments right, he has an unknown with the battery, an old battery has been the cause of many problems with my GS.
 
hi joe!
as with anything that runs rough/herks-jerks at idle.. this will make parts like the starter clutch rattle/try to engage a little.
you are right...carb balance/fouled plug(s) air leaks ect..
 
Well seeing there are hundreds of threads and responses on starter clutches I decided to pick this one to hijack, it has some of the info I was looking for and has brought up a question I have!
I will ask for forgiveness later:D

I will now be doing my starter clutch on my 1150, went for a ride yesterday and it almost would not restart just a series of the nasty clunks :mad: even with the ignition modded as per instructions it was doing it, so there is a problem!

So as for putting the clutch and rotor back on you are suggesting red lock tight on the taper?? I was always under the impression that dry fitting tapers was the best way to go. I don't want to start a debate (i worry about that) I just want advice from guys who know and have done it.

Two more questions I have;
Why does it do it only when its hot?? I know motors have a harder time turning over hot..but why? What are the physics behind it?
And has anyone used a super starter from Cashio, would that help once the clutch is fixed to eliminate tis in the future?
This is going to be the third one in thirty years, and yes I beat the snot out of this bike occasionally but don't worry as I get older it happens less and less!
 
Joe, Paul Cashio builds a MEAN starter!! You need to weld the starter clutch & be done with it. It is harder to start when hot because everything is expanded & sealed up better. More compression hot than cold. Do you have a mechanical advancer? Do you have a Dyna 2000 with a start retard?
Call me at 714--356-784 five if you have questions or need help. I have been building these for a LONG time.
Ray.
 
I have a 26 gallon and I've gotten stuck on a few. Had to go to a shop and use theirs which are closer to 100. I see a sixty at HF.

More then likely it's not the 26 gallon compressor but the impact gun you're using. I picked up a used Ingersoll Rand 231C a few years back and have had very few instances where I couldn't remove something.
 
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