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1983 GS450L - Just died on the way work to work this morning.

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bccap said:
I replaced my r/r with an Electrosport and it is just fine but there are many alternatives
Click to expand...

How did you adapt the connectors on the Electrosport regulator? Or how would I do it for the Electrosport or Rick's model?
 
incarceration said:
How did you adapt the connectors on the Electrosport regulator? Or how would I do it for the Electrosport or Rick's model?
Click to expand...

The Electrosport is plug and play. It also is larger than the original for better cooling so you may have to do some fiddling. Mine wasn't too bad. As for ones with different wiring, there are several threads on that, just do a search. Several of our more frugal members like to use used Honda r/r's and there is a list somewhere for that as well. Again a search should find it. Use the advance search feature and search by titles. Might be something on Basscliff's site as well. Good luck.
Geez I'm starting to sound like Ed.....:eek:
 
bccap said:
The Electrosport is plug and play. It also is larger than the original for better cooling so you may have to do some fiddling. Mine wasn't too bad. As for ones with different wiring, there are several threads on that, just do a search. Several of our more frugal members like to use used Honda r/r's and there is a list somewhere for that as well. Again a search should find it. Use the advance search feature and search by titles. Might be something on Basscliff's site as well. Good luck.
Geez I'm starting to sound like Ed.....:eek:
Click to expand...

Did yours look like mine? With the very wide and narrow black connector?
 
Yeah...More or less. You just plug the wires into the appropriate slot on that box that is snapped on to the bottom of the regulator. It's also a good idea to run a separate ground wire from one of the bolts to the negative terminal of the battery. Below is the Electrosport recommended for your bike. You can save yourself some money if you check out that list,and look on ebay, and search out the way to wire it.

http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/suzuki/gs450-82-88.html?pt=regulator-rectifiers
 
I just checked the stator with the motor running, it never broke 55VAC going ~5000 RPM with any of the 3 combinations of checks.

Also never was within spec of 0.5 and 2.0 OHM, was around 0.3 and 0.45 OHM

Is it safe to say the stator is toast?

I'm thinking of replacing the stator first (if it is confirmed bad) and then seeing what happens before getting a VR\R but I don't know. I would like to just buy both and replace both and be done with it. Especially if the stator is bad, it doesn't seem smart to leave the old VR\R behind, might do something to the new stator.

Here's a cheaper place of the same one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-SUZUKI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c9dd3dfd&vxp=mtr

Here's the stator:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121159326354

Any tips on replacing the stator? Or is it just remove the SUZUKI branded side piece and swap them out? I have a feeling it's going to be a nightmare lol
 
Stupid yes\no question:
When I take off the cover on the side, where the stator is, is there gonna be any kind of fluids coming out? Or is it dry in that cavity where the rotor and stator are?
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Assume there will be oil
Mine is oil bathed
Click to expand...

Is that in the same bath as the engine oil? If so, I'm assuming I have to put more or all oil back in as if I were changing the engine\trans oil (~3qt)
 
I would put it on the centre-stand and go from there
Some folks place a small block under the left side pad but I think thats a bad idea

I would consider draining the oil to a clean container then refilling as need be.
 
Left side pad?
I need to do a full oil change to change my stator? Seems odd lol, but what do I know.

Thanks for the help guys. I just ordered a new stator and VR\R, should be here middle of next week, if not sooner.

I'll post back when it's all here.
 
OH, yeah that sounds like it's got bad written all over it
 
I am running into snags along the upgrade\replacement process.

1) I have a bolt that snapped off and absolutely refuses to come out; it's stuck outside of the shaft hole about 1\4 of an inch
a) i used a dremel and notched out a place for me to put a large flat head screwdriver in the shaft, didn't work
b) i tried using vise grips, didn't work, just slipped\turned on the shaft
c) i've shot PB blaster all while doing the above 2
d) going to get a small butane torch and try to heat it up and cool it a few times and see if it releases that way

2) I have the ESR130 model Electrosport VR\R and the wires are Y, Y, Y, R, BLK - what do I wire the 3 yellow leads to on the old wiring? The old wiring has RED, RED\WHITE, BLUE\WHITE, YELLOW, and 2 Black that are in 1. Does it not matter which is in what as long as the ground and red (presumably hot) are matched?

3) My stator has all white wires when my old stator had YELLOW, WHITE\BLUE, WHITE\GREEN. Again, what is the method of hooking this up properly?
 
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Just finished getting everything back together and tried to start it up and I just heard a loud click. I assume the starter. I hooked up a DMM to the battery posts and it was at 12.38VDC and when I hit the starter button it went down to like ~8.4VDC.

So the battery died over the week or so as i waited for the parts to come in
 
If you haven't done so already, rewire the charging system by connecting the stator directly with the R/R. The harness may melt down otherwise due to the dreaded headlamp stator loop. Bypass the factory harness and use spade terminals to connect the wires, or just solder them. Make sure your R/R is proper grounded too. Suzuki's R/R grounds suck on many GS's (not familiar with your particular bike though). You also might want to check for resistance in the power return out of the R/R. Look for Pos's test on Basscliff's site. Take your time to do this detail work up front, and it will pay off with a more reliable bike. Slam in the stator quick and dirty, and it may not last.

Good luck
 
Nessism said:
If you haven't done so already, rewire the charging system by connecting the stator directly with the R/R. The harness may melt down otherwise due to the dreaded headlamp stator loop. Bypass the factory harness and use spade terminals to connect the wires, or just solder them. Make sure your R/R is proper grounded too. Suzuki's R/R grounds suck on many GS's (not familiar with your particular bike though). You also might want to check for resistance in the power return out of the R/R. Look for Pos's test on Basscliff's site. Take your time to do this detail work up front, and it will pay off with a more reliable bike. Slam in the stator quick and dirty, and it may not last.

Good luck
Click to expand...


I haven't completed the install yet - it's sitting outside without a battery attached. Right now this is how it's all hooked up:

New stator in, 3 wires coming from that, ran up the side and behind the side panel and into the little black shroud and connected to the 3 bullet connectors (YELLOW, WHITE\GREEN, WHITE\BLUE.) From there I hooked up the new VR\R with the 5 wires (RED, BLACK, 3x YELLOW) with RED to RED, BLACK to BLACK, and 3x YELLOW to YELLOW connected to WHITE\RED, WHITE\BLUE, and YELLOW all that were apart of the long narrow black proprietary connector going to the original VR\R (I cut it off and attached spade connectors and shrink tubing over the connections.)

Here are some pictures I took along the way that may help with what I just said above:
http://imageshack.us/g/1/10317291/

So If I'm understanding correctly, you want me to basically bypass the 3 bullet connectors and hook them right into the same place I'm hooking up the WHITE\RED, WHITE\BLUE, and YELLOW spade connectors into the VR\R? What about the 3 bullet connectors on the new stator? I don't think those come off nicely without destroying the rubber covers :( lol Doing this will essentially eliminate the WHITE\RED and WHITE\GREEN switch\relay\connection\whatever, is in the wiring diagram I included in the album set in the above link with the bottom far left arrow.

Where on that diagram do you see a "headlamp\stator loop"?

And lastly, I have the ground wire going into the VRR hooked up to a second wire and an eyelet connector behind the left 10mm bolt that holds on the side panel that the electrical components are bolted onto (VR\R and Igniter.) You think that's sufficient? In the photo(s) you may see it connected behind the left bolt holding on the igniter but I moved it to a different, more solid connection to ground instead of having the panel as another medium for it to jump through.
 
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Connect stator wires directly into R/R (3 yellow wires). Bypass factory harness.

R/R ground to a solid frame point or the battery. Not to that flimsy electrical panel.

R/R power output feeds into factory harness (red wire) and to the fuse block. That's okay as long as there isn't too much resistance.

The stator loop business is where one leg of the stator travels across the harness and to the (now extinct) headlamp switch. This wire often overheats and cooks the harness in the process. BAD.
 
Nessism said:
R/R power output feeds into factory harness (red wire) and to the fuse block. That's okay as long as there isn't too much resistance.
Click to expand...
I haven't found any "fuse block" on this bike anywhere. I know of 1 fuse, and it's inline the positive post of the battery to the starter and other end leads over to the RED wire of the VR\R I believe.

What kind of resistances are acceptable?

Nessism said:
The stator loop business is where one leg of the stator travels across the harness and to the (now extinct) headlamp switch. This wire often overheats and cooks the harness in the process. BAD.
Click to expand...

Extinct?! Lol how in the world...?
 
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