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1983 GS550E, No igniter unit!

  • Thread starter Thread starter flyhunter3825
  • Start date Start date
I've also got this black/white wire with a female spade terminal on it that is wrapped along with the turn signal wires. What is it supposed to be for? Or does it just end?
 
You definetely need to go trough your entire harness and check the connections for ground and power. On my bike, even after restoring the switches at the handles, cleaning them on the inside, doing contact cleaner everywhere and essentially making sure it was all like it should have been, I was still measuring a .5 volts voltage difference from the battery to the items in the front of the bike. I did a simple addition by running a wire directly from the battery ground to the front of the harness. In a way think of it as "injecting" a good ground source.
My electrical has been alright, but I am getting really close to just make myself a brand new wiring harness.
But you should go trough that entire harness. Maybe while you are at it, do the relay trick for the coils.

Another thing to mention, on my bike the stock connectors used on the coils from the harness looked good, but I still had issues. After having to cut those out to fit a set of Dyna coils on the bike, the newly stripped wire had much better voltage than ever. So essentially rust develops at the base of the connectors and so that fisrt 1/8" of wire gets really bad.




flyhunter3825 said:
Alright, I checked the voltage at the coils. Its at about 9.88 volts. And my battery is at 11.86 volts. So I'm losing 2 volts somewhere. Now I know that's not enough for what is required but does voltage at my coils mean my igniter unit is working?
Click to expand...
 
Yeah old wires get that oxidation up into the insulation as well.
Not sure if this is a resistance problem.

The wires are in a miserable spot and they are of a fine gauge.
 
That stray wire comes out of the harness with the 2 wires that connect to the turn signal relay, right where the igniter is.

And thanks guys, this is really helping. This is my first bike I've ever owned & I've learned so much on these forums in the past 2 weeks. I really appreciate it :)
 
flyhunter3825 said:
That stray wire comes out of the harness with the 2 wires that connect to the turn signal relay, right where the igniter is.

And thanks guys, this is really helping. This is my first bike I've ever owned & I've learned so much on these forums in the past 2 weeks. I really appreciate it :)
Click to expand...


It flaps in the wind. It may be of use in another jurisdiction with differing lighting requirements.
 
I was in the same boat a couple months ago. Definitely soak all connectors for a couple hours to clean them. I used rust removal solution. I replaced all but a couple of my bullet connectors with spade ones. Crimped/soldered/dielectric grease.
I second taking the harness out. You never know what a prior owner did to the wiring. Piece of mind knowing you have good connections while driving down the road.
 
OK now an important update.

My spark moves when swapping the coil wire from 1-4 to 2-3
This would mean that the igniter is bad and or the signal generator is bad.

So the signal generator has proper resistance readings.

I dont know if this will fry a pulse coil but test for voltage on each coil and one side has .024 and the other has less.
like half or so.

So is it a dead or dying magnet? If I go crazy and swap the coils will by spark move?

I could buy and igniter I suppose. But damn EBay electrics are iffy propositions.

I think this problem was made worse by resistance in the ignition switch which I checked um a while ago and it was good.

Ultimately the question I am failing to ask is:

What voltage does the igniter expect from the pulse coils in order to produce a spark?
 
My voltage regulator resistance readings aren't matching the manuals specs. One, is this like the igniter where the manual isn't "bullet proof"? And two, are there any other tests I can do to check it?
 
The test in the manual on BassCliff's site dhould tell you how things stand.

Got it running yet?
 
Uhg, no. I still have no spark. Its gotta be my igniter. Will my bike still start even if the r/r is bad?
 
Should run with none. That would mean the battery would be constanly draining. Did yu check the readings for the RR in the Suzuki manual?
You mentioned checking the resistancereadings on the new ignitor. Have these teadings changed? If not it still should be good

Did you check and clean all the connections first?

With the igntion switch on do you get about 12 VDC at the coils?

My meds are kicking in and my lucidity is fading fast.

Comr guys step up and help this guy,
 
Ok, just wanted to make sure. Now I kno the ignition system should work without that. I checked the readings at home w 2 different meters & they were both different. So I brought it to the suzuki shop & they tested it. Said it was off. I'm going thru all the connectors & swapping bullet for spade & disassembling the multi pin connectors & dipping them in muratic acid. Harsh but it gets them brand new. And I'm still not getting the voltage to the coils. I have all the provisions to do a relay coil mod so ill be doin that this weekend.
 
What exactly does this dyna s thing do? Does it bypass the igniter so I wouldn't need one?
 
flyhunter3825 said:
What exactly does this dyna s thing do? Does it bypass the igniter so I wouldn't need one?
Click to expand...

Dyna sells aftermarket ignitions. Yes, they do completely replace the whole ignition system (except the coils - which of course you can replace if you wish). There are a few different models of Dyna ignition. The S is the cheapest, and has been intended to replace points systems. It also works to replace electronic ignition where the advance mechanism is mechanical. Starting in 81 I believe and ending in 83, the GS models were switched over from mechanical advance to an advance electronically calculated by the ignitor. There are Dyna 2000 models that have this functionality - they're significantly more expensive though!

The 550s got the ignitor advance after the 82 model year. So the Dyna S is not a direct replacement. Some have retrofitted mechanical advance onto these models to use the Dyna S (IIRC the Dyna back plate must also be modified), though the advance does not match stock. The Dyna 2000 pickups are not a direct fit for the 83-86 550s and their backing plate also must be modified. There's also the 750 retrofit. So there have been a number of creative solutions for bad ignitors, but nothing that's a direct bolt-on replacement other than a new or good used ignitor.
 
Any is there any tutorial that I can find for my bike? Or is it pretty universal through out? I wanna do this right and not end up with a parts bike. Which model would work the best?
 
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