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1983 gs750es Push start doesn't work, no spark on spark plugs but everything works

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Hey there guys need help with my bike, it's a 1983 gs750es.

Let me tell you how it all began. Two weeks ago I went for a short ride, bike ran well, when we got back my bike just suddenly died, everything was working lights horn everything but it won't start, I can hear the starter motor trying to turn but that's it, so we thought meh the battery must be bad and needs replacing, so for the mean time we charge my battery for a few hours, the following day we connected the batter and the push start doest work, so I was like what the hell is going on here, checked all the fuse and none was popped, so I just jump the starter relay to check if it will start and it did, so I thought the push start might just needed some cleaning so I went on my, I notice the bike is not running like its supposed to it's weak the fastest I can run is 35mph so what the hell is going on I kept thinking why untill I reach my girls place then we had rain for a few hours and my bike was outside, when I was about to go home the bike won't start even if you jump the starter relay, check the fuse again non was popped check the battery it's still good, removed one spark plug grounded it to the cylinder head and jumped the relay, starter motor works great but no spark check all spark plugs all has no spark and this plugs are just a month old, plug the boot with a screw driver no spark, I had to have my bike tow back home.

When I got back home cleaned the push start button and kill switch, got a new battery, replaced the starter relay just to be sure, double check headlight, dash, horn and signal lights are working, tried to jump the starter relay again to see if it will work now guess what nope

Saw trick checking if electricity is flowing to the ignition coils, so I tried that, so I put a wire on the plug that you connect to the coil and hover it a few mm away to the cylinder head, no spark, I haven't checked the stator and the igniter unit but from what I'm seeing could it be its the igniter unit that's the problem? Or there's just a grounded wire I'm not yet finding?

Any help would be great guys I love this bike
 
run a ground wire from one of the selinoid mounting bolts directly to the battery negative
 
Eidollan,


Good that you checked for spark.

Do you have a volt meter to use ?
Check voltage at the org/wht wire at the coils. Report to us.

.
 
Eidollan,


Good that you checked for spark.

Do you have a volt meter to use ?
Check voltage at the org/wht wire at the coils. Report to us.

.

I do have an old volt meter not sure if it's still working but I will check and will let you guys know

Thanks
 
run a ground wire from one of the selinoid mounting bolts directly to the battery negative

After doing that what should I be checking for? Liek should I try starting using the push button or should I check if there's gonna be spark?
 
THere is something I am not understanding about your description.
Maybe my misunderstanding is related to what you mean by
.....
.................................... and the push start doesn't work, ......

You mean pushing the bike in gear then popping the clutch (what I thought "push start" would mean).....
or ... you mean pushing the starter button...?
 
THere is something I am not understanding about your description.
Maybe my misunderstanding is related to what you mean by


You mean pushing the bike in gear then popping the clutch (what I thought "push start" would mean).....
or ... you mean pushing the starter button...?

Yeah sorry about the Confusion been awake for more than 24hrs when I posted this so my mind is kinda loopy... Yeah I mean pushing the starter button.
 
.
.
.. Yeah I mean pushing the starter button.

Oh....

If the solenoid doesnt even click:
- Do you know about the clutch interlock switch? Need to hold in the clutch lever (even if in netural), and teh cltuch swtich needs to work. THE swtich can be adjusted some by loosing mounting screws (dont dissassemble, lots of little parts to fly out) and moving forward or back. If you want to bypass the swtich (I suggest not) you can find the connectors in the wiring, disconnect and plug the two in bike harness together.

- Other problem could be the ground on the battery box (that others have mentioned without describing). THe soloneoid is grounded thru its mounting to the battery box, but sometimes the battery box is not well grounded. Is suppose to be a blk/wht ground wire from the bike harness at the solonoid mounting bolt, but sometimes that blk/wht wire is not a good ground, so many folks sugest adding your own ground wire there. (could test this if had a working meter).

- On the solenoid, see the little wire that is soldered to a connection there? Try jumping 12vdc to that to get the solenoid to kick in. If it doesnt, then either the soleoind is not working or the soloniod mounting is not grounded.

(THis discussion is about the "push button" not operating the starter. THe "no spark" is a complete other discussion.)
 
Hi, hopefully you can get your bike running soon. Like Redman said, you have two problems. About the no spark, again like Redman said , I would remove the tank and confirm +12 V ish at the orange/ white wire at the coils, red lead on O/W wire , black lead on the battery - with ignition switched on. This reading should be only a little lower than your battery voltage. If you have no or low voltage, you will have to trace the problem back. This will be easier with the tank off. If you don't see anything obvious check the ignition switch and kill switch for voltage loss/ drop. If your readings are good (+11.5 V) and up, I would got back to getting the starter button working it's easier to check for spark with a working starter or you don't feel like removing the tank , you can work on the starter problem first and maybe the beast will start. Good luck
 
Oh....

If the solenoid doesnt even click:
- Do you know about the clutch interlock switch? Need to hold in the clutch lever (even if in netural), and teh cltuch swtich needs to work. THE swtich can be adjusted some by loosing mounting screws (dont dissassemble, lots of little parts to fly out) and moving forward or back. If you want to bypass the swtich (I suggest not) you can find the connectors in the wiring, disconnect and plug the two in bike harness together.

- Other problem could be the ground on the battery box (that others have mentioned without describing). THe soloneoid is grounded thru its mounting to the battery box, but sometimes the battery box is not well grounded. Is suppose to be a blk/wht ground wire from the bike harness at the solonoid mounting bolt, but sometimes that blk/wht wire is not a good ground, so many folks sugest adding your own ground wire there. (could test this if had a working meter).

- On the solenoid, see the little wire that is soldered to a connection there? Try jumping 12vdc to that to get the solenoid to kick in. If it doesnt, then either the soleoind is not working or the soloniod mounting is not grounded.

(THis discussion is about the "push button" not operating the starter. THe "no spark" is a complete other discussion.)

Yeah the clutch the clutch interlock switch has been removed long time ago bike runs even if you don't pul the clutch... I'll check the other things you mentioned thanks man let you know what I get
 
Here's what I got when I checked the leads from the ignition coil

url]
 
Here's what I got when I checked the leads from the ignition coil
. . .]
Does meter zero out? (ohm scale like shown, touch leads to each other, does meter go to zero? can adjust to zero?)
 
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Does meter zero out? (ohm scale like shown, touch leads to each other, does meter go to zero? can adjust to zero?)

Yes it does... Omg the wiring of this bike is a mess I just notice that some wires are connected to some wires that it shouldn't, I think I got to get a new wiring harness for this bike or get a wiring diagram and rewire this bike ugh I hate rewiring lol
 
Does meter zero out? (ohm scale like shown, touch leads to each other, does meter go to zero? can adjust to zero?)

I think I just found the issue, my stator is grounded. While getting my head how I would clean up this mess of wires, I just thought of checking the condition of my stator... And I think I found the issue. I zeroed my multi meter put it on ohms lowest setting, put the lead to the yellow wires from the stator put the ground from my multi meter to the ground of the batter guess what it has connection to each and every wire, check if the wires of the stator has continuity and there is for some reason I decided to open my stator cover and check the ground there and its grounded

url]


I guess its either time to replace the stator or rewind it and check if that fixes my issue
 
Good to hear your getting somewhere. Too bad about the stator , I was hoping it was something simple. If you have not read the stator papers, I would suggest it. There is a lot of excellent info. Does the stator stink and insulation look burnt ?
 
Yeah I know, I was hoping it would be just simple but yeah it's always never simple lol... Thanks for the suggestion I'll check it out
 
ah.....
we seem to have three conversations going on here, and getting confused between them.
Talking about ignition system, talking about charging system, talking about using meter.

Stator problem will effect battery charging system, and not directly effect ignition not sparking.
(well unless battery voltage is way low).


FOr the no spark condition: first measure voltage at the org/wht wire at the coils. If that is low, well, then need to find why.
If it is low at coils because battery voltage is also low, well, then need to check the charging system.

For the no spark condition: can measure the ohms of the coil(s).
(I thought that is what you were doing in your photo.)
 
ah.....
we seem to have three conversations going on here, and getting confused between them.
Talking about ignition system, talking about charging system, talking about using meter.

Stator problem will effect battery charging system, and not directly effect ignition not sparking.
(well unless battery voltage is way low).


FOr the no spark condition: first measure voltage at the org/wht wire at the coils. If that is low, well, then need to find why.
If it is low at coils because battery voltage is also low, well, then need to check the charging system.

For the no spark condition: can measure the ohms of the coil(s).
(I thought that is what you were doing in your photo.)

Checked the voltage on the org/wht wires it didn't read nothing also the ohms shows nothing OL
 
I'll let the spark alone for now, i want to focus on the start botton, I want it to work first before moving to the others... So far here's what I have done, I traced the wires from the kill switch and start button, no melted wires or anything wires are fine, checked push button for continuity, if not pressed no continuity if press I has continuity same with the kill switch, traced the wires again going to the starter relay check the continuity all good but I still decided to replace the starter relay, still no response from the start button like there is no power, traced the wires again that goes to the igniter unit wires seems fine checked for continuity, none, but I'm not sure how to properly check that, decided to check the ignition switch, when I turn the key everything on the dash lights up everything works so I'm assuming there's no problem with it except for the start button, the safety switch on the clutch has been disabled so the bike would start even with out pulling the clutch, but I'm not sure about the side stand if the bike would start even if the side stand is down but I tried having it down and up still no response and the side stand indicator on the dash doesn't go away all I know it would go away when the engine turns over.

I'm checking the wiring diagram for the 1983 gs750e and I'm seeing a gr/ylw wire that has a starter disconnect switch that runs from the starter button to the starter relay but when I search for that on my bike I can't find it
 
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