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1983 Suzuki GS 550 E @12,000 original miles

  • Thread starter Thread starter Schweisshund
  • Start date Start date
Not sure what the firing order is for your bike, honestly, but if you have some of the plug wires switched that would definitely cause a backfire. The factory wires on my bike actually have the cylinder number printed on a white ring around the wire, makes it really handy when I change the plugs.

I remember wiring up my F150 with the 351M one time. My nephew was helping and had removed several wires and couldn't remember which went where. I followed the firing order stamped in the manifold, going by the 1-3-5-7 on the left bank, etc. that I was used to. After scaring the crap out of both of us with a backfire out of both glass packs, I decided to go get the manual. Lo and behold, on the 351M, the cylinders are not stagger numbered like most engines, the left bank was 1-2-3-4, etc. I had the firing order right but the cylinder numbers wrong. Just goes to show how one simple oversight can lead to serious engine problems and a wasted afternoon (or longer).
 
Lol - I am using the wrong manual for my bike (GS650 1981-1983) mine is a 1983 GS550E and I am not even sure if the cylinders are staggered or if they go 1,2,3,4 or 1,3,2,4 or what.

As for the backfire on your 150 - I can relate - it sounded like a bomb had exploded in my garage when my bike backfired. I had a profoundly deaf friend visiting (not kidding) that was inside the house and felt it. :shock:

I was sent a very helpful link by another GSresources user and am downloading, I hope, the correct manual for my bike. :oops:
 
My hat is off to gsresources member melodicmetalgod - the link you sent me http://repairmanualclub.com was an absolute lifesaver. Because of the excellent illustrations showing the spark plug wiring diagram, I was able to see immediately I had leads number 1 and 4 confused.

To explain this more in depth - I thought the left coil was 1, 4 (from left to right) and the right coil was 2,3 (left to right).

it wasn't ....... its from left to right (spark plug wires exiting coil) 4, 1, 2, 3 for the 1983 Suzuki GS 550 E, ES and L models. The cylinders are from left to right 1,2,3,4

will try to put this in perspective the best way I know how

spark plug wires exit coils = 4,1,2,3
cylinders 1,2,3,4

far left coil wire goes to far right spark plug

If it is not placed on this order then you will hear a sound much like a 50 caliber desert eagle being fired right next to your ear.
 
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Glad the FSM is helping out. Remember that the FSM, Clymer and Haynes all have varying pro's and con's in terms of the information and presentation, so you would be wise to get at least one of the Clymer or Haynes manuals as well. I've got the Clymer and it's more slanted to the earlier models, so I'm planning on adding the Haynes to my collection as I understand it's a bit more relevant to the later models.

Best of luck!
 
disregard my last post - re: I had the connections on right the first time. I was looking at the diagram for the 1983 Suzuki GS 550 L and the wires are routed differently than the E model. Once again, the backfiring is present and it won't start. It smells like starter fluid and spark plug 3 and 4 were wet. I just replaced those champion spark plugs with the NGK's and will see if there is a difference in the morning. Does anyone know how to adjust the timing? I have the downloaded manual but its not very clear.
 
Are 3 and 4 on the same coil? You could have a bad coil, fairly common on these bikes. If they're not, then it could be the timing or bad CDI box.
 
3 and 4 are on seperate coils. I suspect its the timing too and have never adjusted the timing on anything ever. I have the timing specs in the manual I downloaded but I don't even know where to begin. The manual assumes I know how to adjust the timing and does not explain how to go about it. Maybe I am overlooking it.

Am I right to think BTDC means below top dead center? And what exactly am I lining up? the pistons in the combustion chamber? Do I have to remove the head gasket to adjust the timing? I have been searching the forums to find out how to do this.

There should be a new forum specifically related to "How To" (How to replace a tire, how to rebuild brake master cylinder ...etc.)
 
Actually, it's Before Top Dead Center, but you were close enough. Start a thread on timing your bike and you'll get plenty of help from these guys. I know that your bike is a bit different than mine in the timing department, so I can't help you there.

Is there anything in your manual on testing the CDI box?
 
On an engine that has adjustable timing, this is done by rotating the signal generator. So if you're adjusting a car's timing, you rotate the distributor, and if you're doing it on a GS motorcycle, you rotate the timing plate that holds the points or the magnetic pickups (if you have a model with magnetic pickups). You can't do this on your later model 550. If you pull the signal generator cover, you will find a steel plate held to the block by two screws, and this holds the two signal pickups. You will see a round signal generator that is bolted to the end of the crank, and this rotates as the engine rotates. To see it work, you can leave the cover off and crank the engine. This will help you understand how the signal generator works. To adjust the timing, you would have to be able to rotate this signal generator plate, but you can't.

The timing on the later 550's is controlled by the ignitor unit (often referred to as the CDI). This unit changes the advance of the spark depending on the rpm of the engine. If your ignitor unit and signal generator are working properly, your timing is set correctly.

Sorry if this is hard to understand. Its certainly hard to explain.
 
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Lee,

Thanks again for your input. I do understand what you are saying. I looked up everything concerning CDi and signal generators, rectifiers, stators so yes what you said makes sense to me and will do some more "bike surgery" this evening and follow your advice.
 
Pictures I have so far of restoration project

Pictures I have so far of restoration project

But you have to view them on my myspace account at the following link :

will repost the link - I messed up

I have some of my nighthawk there too
 
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Didn't know you have to be a member to view them

Didn't know you have to be a member to view them

will redo the picture thing using yahoo photo album ((((((((((((((coming soon))))))))))))))))))
 
I have been unsuccessful at having the stripped mixture screws backed out. When I cleaned the carbs I used a fishing line and cleaned them from the inside. Deepsea fishing line (thicker).

However, when the bike was first running (before I added the seafoam) it was set in that position.

I just tested the stator and it passed the test - click the link below for a photo of it (and the album has pictures of this bike) :

http://tinyurl.com/2j656k

The manual states that if it has trouble starting it is likely a result of these problems (copying verbatim):

Valve clearance out of adjustment ----but it was running before
Worn valve guides or poor seating of valves ----- pistons moved freely
Valves Mistiming -----???????
Piston rings excessively worn ------I hope not
Worn down cylinder bores -----way over my head
Starter motor cranks but too slowly -----not the problem


Under the carburator section it says if the engine is failing to start it can be related to these issues :

1. Starter Jet is clogged ----- will check again
2. Starter pipe is clogged ----- (where is that?)
3. Air leaking from a joint between starter body and carburator --- maybe
4. Air leaking from carburetor's joint or vacuum gauge joint ----?????
5. Starter plunger is not operating properly ----- ?????


I am still trying to discern what would be causing it to back fire and the spark plugs to get wet.
 
Valve mistiming would only occur if your timing chain broke or stretched (unlikely) or you've reinstalled the cams (very unlikely).

Don't know where the starter pipe is....but as far as the vacuum leaks it's primarily the intake manifold o-rings or the o-rings in between the carbs. Someone here sells the o-rings for about $12.
 
I am going to take the carburator apart (again) and clean it (again). \\:D/

happy happy joy joy.
 
Found the starter plunger (its where the choke cables enter the carbs). The choke is the plunger.
 
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