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1983 Suzuki GS850 Cafe Racer Project

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dirty Deeds
  • Start date Start date
Thanks ^^

Still waiting on some parts, so I don't have any real updates at the moment.

ShadowFocus603 said:
Hate to say it but the first place to start is getting rid of those narrow cone filters and getting a proper set of filters from APE or K&N. Those filters more than likely have the same issue I saw with another similar set I got where the inlet is necked down where the rubber joins to the metal base of the filter. If the rubbers diameter is less than the outer diameter of the carb then you will see restriction. Then order Dynojet kit 3306. It's not just jetting you need. You also need the needles included in that kit. I have the same motor you do and that jet kit along with the APE filters is what I am running. Install the largest jets in the kit and set the mixture to the manual in the kit. I haven't had to touch mine since install. I think I am running a 17.5 idle jet.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, I'll check out the kit. Also the filters do not have that issue, I read about the issue and that was the first thing I checked when I received them.

DohcBikes said:
Not only will it cause overall restriction, often times the inner parts cover the air bleeds. This will make the bike virtually untuneable.

Rear tire is going to slam into the seat pan over hard bumps. One of the most common mistakes made by the new wave of builders.

You might find that clipons with no rearsets is very uncomfortable on long rides.

It does look good, but form follows function. Cheers and good luck with the project:)
Click to expand...

Hello! If the tire does rub on hard bumps, what do you suggest to remedy the problem? Also, I am looking at installing a rearset, as I have to agree, the clipons put you in very low position.

Thanks guys, constructive criticism is always welcome.

I'll keep you updated.
 
"Also, I am looking at installing a rearset......." Would the actual pass foot peg location be too high and back for you?...probably, but depending on your inseam/legs that would be an easy mounting place. Look on the inside of your oem pass peg brackets...you'll see the odd looking casting mark...a circle with a raised slot on it...that could be a half way point to mount to as well {btw- they don't exactly match so it's just a reference point}.
Problem is that no one makes rear sets for the G model shaft bikes...E's and S's sure, but the industry left us shaft guys out in the cold.
My suggestion is to find a rear set somewhere that has the pegs{folding or stationary}, style or color that you like, then you can make a plate to mount them in place of your oem pegs. Hardest part is two fold.....A} usable shifter and brake mounting hardware and B}a usable/comfortable foot peg location. Somewhat pic your body being frozen {bear with me here} - if you freeze your body, tilt forward and down to a new lower hand grip location, your feet should find a new upward and back location...should. I happen to have a 36" inseam, so my long legs will need to be somewhere other than in my armpits when I'm done......btw, I have the same problem as you but n '80 G that's in need of rear sets. Your year uses the aluminum foot peg brackets for passenger peg mounts while mine has a frame hoop with welded on pass foot pegs{for now - I've aquirred a pair of '82 G mounts like yours}.
 
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I like your build!
Because I prioritize improving performance, I suggest dumping those L forks because they slow down flick-ability.
Also get taller harder rear shocks to lift the back a bit, to increase handling speed.
 
Last edited:
Damn it!

Got the wrong parts in, now I have to wait again. I'm itching to get this project going again, it's been too long.
 
Dirty Deeds said:
IMG_20151220_150921.jpg
Click to expand...

I like it too, the best use of an L tank and the seat looks very nice and looks comfortable too. The L forks won't slow anything down if you used the same triple clamps which it looks like you did. The wrinkle finish is a nice touch, is it paint or powdercoat? One thing to think about with shock length, the driveshaft is happiest at a certain angle, hard to tell from here, but it looks like the swingarm is already angled down further that it was originally?
 
That looks about like stock rear end geometry for an 850. Being on the center stand with no exhaust, it looks a little unusual.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
...I suggest dumping those L forks because they slow down flick-ability.
Click to expand...

The difference, if any at all, is so tiny, 95% of riders will never notice the difference, especially on an 850 or 1100 shaft drive. Those bikes are FAR from "flickable", in any case...
 
Can anyone help me out?

I am looking for a positive connection for the RPM to complete the connection of my digital gauge. Does anyone know?
 
Dirty Deeds said:
Can anyone help me out?

I am looking for a positive connection for the RPM to complete the connection of my digital gauge. Does anyone know?
Click to expand...

Depends on the unit you have, but I have my Trail Tech Vapor tach lead connected to the '-' side of one of the coils. You can also try the '+' side, it seems to give a weaker, but less noisy signal.


Mark
 
Where did you get your seat from, and how did you mount it?

Really liking your build, and I'm impressed with the quality of your work!
Can anyone help me out?

I am looking for a positive connection for the RPM to complete the connection of my digital gauge. Does anyone know?
 
On my gs550, I added a chi-bay electronic tach/speedo unit.


To get the tach to work, I took the (-) side of the coil and tapped to the tach signal wire on the gauge. where the wire for the (-) coil and tach signal wire connected, I tee'd a 10k ohm 1/4 resistor to a 12v wire and everything started working.
 
mmattockx said:
Depends on the unit you have, but I have my Trail Tech Vapor tach lead connected to the '-' side of one of the coils. You can also try the '+' side, it seems to give a weaker, but less noisy signal.


Mark
Click to expand...

I have a ChiBay unit, and can't get it to work in any way shape or form. I can get it to somewhat work by wrapping the signal wire around one of the spark plug wires.

450cc_GS_espresso said:
Where did you get your seat from, and how did you mount it?

Really liking your build, and I'm impressed with the quality of your work!
Click to expand...

Thanks. I got the seat off of EBay. I have not mounted it yet, however I have two options, two bolts directly through the electronics pan and into the seat where the brackets bolt to the seat pan, or weld nuts onto the seat brackets and go trough the side of the sub-frame to the brackets.

I'll let you know how I did after I do it.

frankenwabbit said:
On my gs550, I added a chi-bay electronic tach/speedo unit.


To get the tach to work, I took the (-) side of the coil and tapped to the tach signal wire on the gauge. where the wire for the (-) coil and tach signal wire connected, I tee'd a 10k ohm 1/4 resistor to a 12v wire and everything started working.
Click to expand...

Can you post some pics or a diagram? This seems to be very interesting, thanks.
 
Soon Steve, soon.

Thanks for the link frankenwabbit

Found a good signal and here it is:

 
oh...btw...if you don't have a fuel sender in your gas tank and want that fuel level gauge to stop blinking...just connect the fuel sensor wire on the gauge to ground....if that doesn't work...you connect the fuel sensor wire to a resistor (forgot the value) and then to ground. Something like that.
 
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