2 regulators installed? Why me

[Nessism]

Triumph sells an adapter harness for installing a SH775 that costs about $10. Google search will turn up the number or search here.

I've got a good clean used SH775 that has been tested that's cheaper than that new one. Of course, nothing wrong with new parts.

 

[Gorminrider]

wow, open1mind. I'm astounded to see such a mess ..maybe I'm missing something in their logic but I don't think I'd puzzle long over what that could be...

Still, that doesn't mean those R/Rs are knackered. Possibly one by itself will work fine. twisted wires and electrical tape will do to test...but do attach those ground wires to a clean spot...

then, or really before the above, Check the AC output of your stator first(60-80VAC on each leg and very near the same on each) . If that's ok, I'd wire one of those in and see if you get charging voltage at the battery ....

 

[Steve]

Triumph sells an adapter harness for installing a SH775 that costs about $10. Google search will turn up the number or search here.

Or you can wait until that "Steve" guy shows up and give you the number. :-\\\

T2500676

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[open1mind]

So, never let it be said that I am too stubborn to take advice.
SH 775 ordered and on the way
Triumph connector ordered, hopefully will ship soon.
Some extra wire, bullet connectors, and battery terminal ring connectors either on hand or ordered
I will connect in the stator directly (not into the harness) per the coaching and diagrams offered up in this thread.

If the stock set up was still in place, I would have little/no anxiety about installing the new stator and RR. I DO have anxiety about removing the connections from the two RR's into the harness and getting those connections back in good order. This is going be an Advil day once I tackle it over the weekend.

I will post some pics once I start disconnecting the offending components. That will probably include some frustrated questions about the harness and getting it back together smoothly.

Thanks to all

 

[Steve]

While you are waiting, feel free to remove the two R/Rs. I still have my doubts about them both being R/Rs, though. Not sure if your bike is one of them, but some of the earlier bikes had separate R/ and /R, that is Rectifier and Regulator. The stock rectifier looks a lot like the combo R/R units of later years.

Just strip it down to basics. Leave the three stator wires flapping in the breeze. I have chosen to put mine in a 3-pin connector, others like to use individual spade connectors or even solder. Remove your two "devices". You should have a red wire that is fed by at least one of them. That wire is likely just ahead of the fuse box area, just behind the airbox. When you install your 775, connect the output to that red wire. Use whatever means necessary to route the three stator wires to the inputs. Make sure the ground is connected via whatever scheme you have chosen. The "single point" ground makes sense, as all the power and grounds go through just two common points. It is recommended to NOT connect straight to the battery.

It only looks like a mess now. Remove all the mess, you will see how simple it really is. :encouragement:

.

 

[Big T]

Yes, the 79 has the separate regulator and rectifier.
The Suzuki module is the stock regulator

 

[posplayr]

79 GS1000 SH-775 Modification with SPG

 

[posplayr]

Close up of just the R/R area.


(sorry for the crazy formatting inserted from WORD)
Summary:

1. For a conversion from the original separate Regulator and rectifier you want to remove or otherwise ignore any wiring not listed below. This is the circuitry shown covered with the transparent light blue boxes.
2. You should be aware of the basic flow of current:

• Heavy RED wire from the battery at BAT(+) to the main fuse location in the fuse box.
• 14 AWG RED from main fuse output to the “T” and on to the ignition switch

• 14 AWG ORANGE from ignition switch to fuse box for power distribution.
• None of the above should be modified

• Keep track of the RED wire that disappeared into the harness from the original #4 rectifier. This is now fed from the new SH-775 labeled R/R(+)
• 3. New wires to ensure the grounding is correct:

• A1/A2 – Bat(-) Run a wire from the negative battery terminal to the SPG (wire shown in light blue double line)

• B1/B2 – B/W(-) Ring lug. This is HARNESS ground and how the B/W ground wire currents return to the R/R(-). If the B/W with ring lug will not reach to you SPG location then you need to i.) Extend it to the SPG or ii.) Ground it to the frame (not preferred). (wire shown in light blue double line)

• C R/R(-)wire to SPG. SH775 ground through the SH-775 connector to the SPG (make this a 14 AWG wire less than 1 foot long. (wire shown in light blue double line)

• D FRAME ground to SPG. (wire shown in light blue double line)

• SPG can be literally located anywhere as long as it is within the 1 ft length of the R/r(-) wire C but not located at the battery(-)

• “T” is buried in the harness at the RED DOT.

• R/R(+) this is the remaining RED wire coming from your harness that went to the original #6 REG in the schematic. (shown as a dashed RED line)

1. 4. STATOR WIRES:

• 3 STATOR should be run direct to the SH-775 R/R without regard for any of the original wiring.

 

[open1mind]

Thanks

That will take some strong coffee and some study before I start surgery...

 

[posplayr]

Thanks

That will take some strong coffee and some study before I start surgery...

Basically you shoudl start pulling back the electrical wrapping and follow the wires under the blue boxes. The wires will either go back to one of other of the R/R's or will disappear deeper into the harness. The only one to be concerned about is the RED indicated by the DASHED RED line.

The headlamp loop wires will be left as spare coming from the harness. There are unpowered when you run the stator direct to the SH-775.

The long run or RED and ORANGE wire is to show you how the battery voltage comes through the main furs, goes to teh "T" and then routes through the ignition switch before coming back to the distribution fuses n the fuse box. This is shown in my simplified diagram marked up from another factory diagram.

Go one wire at a time and go down the list.

As a safety check before you power anything up, run you ohm meter between the main battery terminals connector (NOT ACROSS THE BATTERY). You should have 10's of ohms of resistance and if so there is no short and you can safely hook up the battery.


If you want either the manual where i got the schematic or the powerpoint file where i modified it PM me your email address.

 

[open1mind]

So, I know some folks wanted to know more about how 2 regs could have possibly been left installed by a dealer, much less for the bike to still work/charge (marginally)
Unless I have my part numbers wrong, here is a pic of the Suzuki Reg that I pulled out of the bike tonight.

 

[open1mind]

And then on to the next mystery. This component was still installed on the panel, with an intact fuse in it--- but the red wire was snipped downstream and there was nothing at all connected to it. It certainly looks factory, and there is a nice clean cover on it, but it certainly wasnt contributing to the cause of advancing electrons in any way!

 

[open1mind]

So, I think I made some progress by removing the two R/R's and then also the Stator cover tonight. The first thing that I noticed is that the outgoing stator has 5 wires, and the new one is only 3. As I read the manual and all of the good posts here, the 3 is what we want, and I will hook it up to the SH775 only- as suggested.

That aside, I am still dreading getting the harness back to something sane and san-itary. There a few wires to account for. From the battery, the larger gauge red + line does go to the fuse box (seems stock and correct), so that is encouraging. From the fuse box, we have a red coming off it and going up into the harness connections along with the stock orange wires, but the red + does it in a clearly NON Stock way. The photo shows where that red connects in, and the "left over" wires from where I removed some the connections coming from the two regulators and the stator that was installed. I have some wiring diagram study to make sense of that, but thats it for tonight....
Thanks to all.

 

[tom203]

Ok, stator cover off....do you have the 18 pole stator?

 

[open1mind]

So I count 18 in the pic below, and in the one that I just received from Rick's. The pic is from right after getting the cover off the bike. Note the amount of gasket sealer. No extra charge for that, and least it never leaked!

 

[Gorminrider]

well, the picture is too small..but look, the original stator came with 3 wires and not 5. (sigh I was going to say that Hopefully these two extras aren't from a special stator with a high voltage coil intended for a Capacitive Discharge Ignition that has been fitted to your bike...it originally had points...)

Seeing as you already ran out and bought a lot of new stuff, I would not puzzle over the original separate Regulator and Rectifier connections and wiring unless you are really interested..Don't throw them away unless you are sure they are broken. They can be handy unless you are really short of a hoarder's shelf space...

So, hooking a new stator with correct number of "poles" to your new R/R should be easy peasy...as Posplayer said, I think, you should find some kind of red wire that "Ts" into that red wire from the fuse box that is on its way all the way to the key...(the key switched to ON sends Red's power to the orange which then sends it back to the fuse box to be distributed among the electrics..)

You could splice onto the red if it's a long enough stub OR unwind the harness tape and redo the splice OR you can just make a red wire to goto the same place that key-bound red wire comes off the fuse....

 

[Grimly]

Run a screwdriver around the inside of the rotor and count how many magnet poles there are.

 

[Rijko]

And then on to the next mystery. This component was still installed on the panel, with an intact fuse in it--- but the red wire was snipped downstream and there was nothing at all connected to it. It certainly looks factory, and there is a nice clean cover on it, but it certainly wasnt contributing to the cause of advancing electrons in any way!
View attachment 60235

That's an accessory box Suzuki built in for people that need an extra
power wire. You don't need to put it back.

 

[open1mind]

That's an accessory box Suzuki built in for people that need an extra
power wire. You don't need to put it back.

Thats was my hunch... and to spare parts heaven it goes.

The good news is that it clears up some space on the side panel. The SH775 arrived in the mail yesterday, and man that thing has some dimensions. Im not sure if I can fit it in the panel (now after removing the to RR's that were installed there), but we'll see. I note that others have installed it on/under the battery box. Could that be desirable? Sounds like it would be more likely to collect grime/corrosion than under the side panel...

We'll see....

 

[Steve]

So, I know some folks wanted to know more about how 2 regs could have possibly been left installed by a dealer, much less for the bike to still work/charge (marginally)
Unless I have my part numbers wrong, here is a pic of the Suzuki Reg that I pulled out of the bike tonight. View attachment 60233

If you can't get another picture with just the part number, can you at least type them in?
That picture is too small to read, and gets real grainy when trying to enlarge.

.