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2 regulators installed? Why me
- Thread starter open1mind
- Start date
Phase 2- trying to avoid sparks
Phase 2- trying to avoid sparks
OK- am at the point stator installed, SH775 mocked up and ready to mount on panel, triumph part ready with bullet connectors installed, and a fully charged battery.
My first/next step is to try to do a test start by hooking up the applicable leads in the correct spots per the Nessism diagram. I'll get to putting dielect grease on the connections, cleaning up all of the grounds and likely going to an spg in the next chapter.
For now, I am just trying to sort out the "orphan" wires that dont connect anywhere because of the last butcher job. It SEEMS from the Ness-esque diagram that I can connect one of the orphans (RED) to the SH775 hot lead. I dont say it on the video, but i do know that the 3 stator lines connect into the SH775 and I have it set up and ready to do so.
Here is a vid that tries to describe my next step. Does that red lead that I point out a minute or two in look like the connection per the diagram? Hope this makes sense... and thanks to all for your patience.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-MxqF_foxs&t=24s
Phase 2- trying to avoid sparks
Forget how it's wired now, just rewire it correctly. There are dozens of threads on this in the archives. Look up some of Pos's threads and if they are too complicated use the one posted below. Oh, and you need to rev the engine up to 5000 rpm in order to check charging voltage. Don't check at idle.
SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr
OK- am at the point stator installed, SH775 mocked up and ready to mount on panel, triumph part ready with bullet connectors installed, and a fully charged battery.
My first/next step is to try to do a test start by hooking up the applicable leads in the correct spots per the Nessism diagram. I'll get to putting dielect grease on the connections, cleaning up all of the grounds and likely going to an spg in the next chapter.
For now, I am just trying to sort out the "orphan" wires that dont connect anywhere because of the last butcher job. It SEEMS from the Ness-esque diagram that I can connect one of the orphans (RED) to the SH775 hot lead. I dont say it on the video, but i do know that the 3 stator lines connect into the SH775 and I have it set up and ready to do so.
Here is a vid that tries to describe my next step. Does that red lead that I point out a minute or two in look like the connection per the diagram? Hope this makes sense... and thanks to all for your patience.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-MxqF_foxs&t=24s
While you are at this stage, I recommend pulling the back off the fuse box and checking the solder joints.
This is a known problem with these fuse boxes.
All of the red wires should be hot. Check your continuity on that one back to the battery positive. That size red wire runs from the fuse box to the ignition switch. A slightly larger gauge red runs from the battery to the main fuse in the fuse box. A much larger gauge wire runs from the battery to the solenoid
The green/white wire is the stator loop that goes to the handlebar switch. It's probably been mentioned to bypass this wire, so, yes, it's an orphan
Do you have the wiring diagram for this bike?
This is a known problem with these fuse boxes.
All of the red wires should be hot. Check your continuity on that one back to the battery positive. That size red wire runs from the fuse box to the ignition switch. A slightly larger gauge red runs from the battery to the main fuse in the fuse box. A much larger gauge wire runs from the battery to the solenoid
The green/white wire is the stator loop that goes to the handlebar switch. It's probably been mentioned to bypass this wire, so, yes, it's an orphan
Do you have the wiring diagram for this bike?
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If you would simply recognize that there is a standard convention for wire colors and if the wires are stock then they follow that convention and you can find them on the schematic I already sent you (see lower left hand corner).
For example it would appear that the two wires coming from under the tank are the Yellow with Black tracer (Y/B) and Black with White tracer(B/W). BTW a tracer is a thin stripe.
It is almost impossible to determine the colors of your wires from this video and it all remains a great mystery.
However the three wires you pointed out are probably:\
- The RED goes to the "T"
The other two are abandoned stator headlamp loop wires (forget about them once you confirm the colors).
They are probably :
- White/Red (W/R)
- Green/White(G/W).
You can follow both of these from the R/R connection area to the headlamp switch.
Finally that Black with white tracer (B/W) ground wire for the dyna-S shoudl go to the SPG or any point on the frame if you are not going to do that.
Please note that on the whole bike (and any other GS for that matter) if you see B/W it is a ground that I have referred to as harness ground.
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I do have a diagram and factory manual, along with the one posted by posplayr. It shows the W/R wire as going to the ignition switch, and the G/Y wire as going to the oil pressure switch. That is what has been driving my concern- could I really just leave them orphaned and tape them off?
I have some other questions that I may correspond with Posplayr on separately before flipping the switch... but I definitely will try to test resistance/Ohms before hooking up the battery as suggested.
I have some other questions that I may correspond with Posplayr on separately before flipping the switch... but I definitely will try to test resistance/Ohms before hooking up the battery as suggested.
Just circling back to the group with a "thank you". I am now charging within spec, and after fixing an oil leak (my fault) from the stator cover the bike is fired up. A few side exchanges with Posplayr helped me to sort out the previously butchered wires and get the SH775 connected ok- and yes, I did elect to do a single point ground. Worked out well, and not too much extra effort since I had everything pulled apart anyway.
Some double checking of wire routing and keeping an eye on voltage- but that will probably wait for the snow melt before I dive back in.
Now if only the VFR forums were as info packed. I am about to diagnose, troubleshoot and probably break my mint 86 VFR. That bike is also under-charging, and it is no joy to work on with the extra plastics and a V4 to work around!
Some double checking of wire routing and keeping an eye on voltage- but that will probably wait for the snow melt before I dive back in.
Now if only the VFR forums were as info packed. I am about to diagnose, troubleshoot and probably break my mint 86 VFR. That bike is also under-charging, and it is no joy to work on with the extra plastics and a V4 to work around!
Now I do....
Adding a couple more details, the three "spare" wires coming from harness after the stator switch with direct connection to the SH-775 were:
- Red wire connected to the "T" (this is was confirmed by isolating the circuit from main fuse to ignition switch).
- The White/Red (W/R) and Green/White (G/W) stator headlamp loop wires (now open and available for future use).
And finally the SH-775 is charging a little high 14.7V at 5K; you should keep an eye on this as discussed.
There's two good VRF forums I use for my son's 2002.
I'm pretty sure there's a write up on the electrical upgrades on https://vfrworld.com/ or https://vfr.bikersoracle.com/ or https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/
I'm pretty sure there's a write up on the electrical upgrades on https://vfrworld.com/ or https://vfr.bikersoracle.com/ or https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/
Yes, I am active on both forums. Just because this is a curious group, I will share some findings on the vfr...
Charges at 12.4 or so at idle, rising very sporadically to 13 at 5k rpms- but not smoothly or consistently. The volt meter jumps up and down a bit...
I have worked through the vfr version of the stator papers;
Stator definitely checks out ok
battery tests ok (new)
new mosfet regulator ordered
connections look awful--- take a look at the pic of the stator to RR connector!
Charges at 12.4 or so at idle, rising very sporadically to 13 at 5k rpms- but not smoothly or consistently. The volt meter jumps up and down a bit...
I have worked through the vfr version of the stator papers;
Stator definitely checks out ok
battery tests ok (new)
new mosfet regulator ordered
connections look awful--- take a look at the pic of the stator to RR connector!
Thats what the entire vfr community is using...
The FH020AA- recommended by this guy as part of a kit he sells by the dozens to vfr guys- who seem to have almost as much trouble as GS folks with charging.
http://roadstercycle.com/
Here's the part where I learn that it is much better than stock but not as good as the SH775 in spite of what roadster recommends. (PS- their diagram does not integrate the SPG, but based upon your coaching I was going to do that anyway!)
thanks
The FH020AA- recommended by this guy as part of a kit he sells by the dozens to vfr guys- who seem to have almost as much trouble as GS folks with charging.
http://roadstercycle.com/
Here's the part where I learn that it is much better than stock but not as good as the SH775 in spite of what roadster recommends. (PS- their diagram does not integrate the SPG, but based upon your coaching I was going to do that anyway!)
thanks
I tested and compared the FH20 (SHUNT) against the Compufire (Series) back in 2010 (IIRC) and I know who Roadster cycle is. Form and fit the SH-775 is virtually identical to FH20, so unless you are reving to 15K RPM there is no reason for the MOSFET shunt design.
What wires got smoked? VAC Stator wires or Harness Red/Black wires?
I'm assuming the connectors are fried becuase of normal operating conditions that will continue if not get worse from the FH20.
If you clean up the connections without changing stator or R/R does it still charge?
I would not trust this roadstercycle guy any further than I could throw him.
he is charging over $200 for a SH847 series R/R and doesn't even mention teh SH775 also series R/R and much cheaper.
He goes on to persuade people to use a MOSFET Series R/R because teh series R/R are too expensive.
he must have a $hit pipe of obsolete FH02's he wants to dump so he doesn't bring up the SH775.
Great guy; lying by omission while smiling to your face!!
he is charging over $200 for a SH847 series R/R and doesn't even mention teh SH775 also series R/R and much cheaper.
He goes on to persuade people to use a MOSFET Series R/R because teh series R/R are too expensive.
he must have a $hit pipe of obsolete FH02's he wants to dump so he doesn't bring up the SH775.
Great guy; lying by omission while smiling to your face!!
You're doing him a disservice - he's got the series SH847 up front and central on the opening page.
Yea and he says to buy the mosfet because tgd sh is to expensive
I am waiting for a few supplies before I can reroute/reconnect everything and see what is happening with the existing (stock) RR. Needless to say those connectors in the pics are head for the trash, not for cleaning.
I might find that the problem was those two connections, especially the pink one at the Solenoid. I have found a supplier to replace that pretty unique connector, and the other side of it which is at the top of the solenoid assembly. I may try to do something more custom depending upon what else I troubleshoot. Again, since I have torn apart, like my GS, I will replace the RR regardless- but it would be good to know where the problem was.
