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2K rattle can primer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
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Guest

Guest
Okay been doing a search through previous post about a two part 2K rattle can primer. Thought I had booked marketed though guess I didn't. Anyone recall this a few months back? I haven't bee able to locate the thread.
 
rustybronco said:
http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=150&L=1
http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=331&L=1

A similar product should be able to be obtained from your local automotive paint store as well.

What do you have planned?
Click to expand...

Got a small problem with my ABS front fender, we had to take it all the way down to the substrate and now getting little fuzzies from the sanding. So took the fender over to a good body shop, (dude paints bikes as well) he said to use like a 120 grit sand paper to finish it and then use a 2K epoxy primer on it. He said that should smooth it out just fine.
 
Although I disagree with his choice of grit to use on ABS, be sure and follow the epoxy primer with a good build primer, block sand and it should be ready for topcoating.
 
rustybronco said:
Although I disagree with his choice of grit to use on ABS, be sure and follow the epoxy primer with a good build primer, block sand and it should be ready for topcoating.
Click to expand...

Actually, the 120 grit is to get the more stubborn painted areas cleaned off and quick once over everything else. I was thinking do that then use a 800 or 1000 grit to really finish it up. I mean the paint on this fender was really jacked up all the chips and peeling. So it really had to be taken all the way down.
 
try NAPA auto parts 'self etching primer" and you will most likely never use anything else.

To me, it is the king of spray bomb primers. made by martin-seynour
 
mrbill5491 said:
Actually, the 120 grit is to get the more stubborn painted areas cleaned off and quick once over everything else. I was thinking do that then use a 800 or 1000 grit to really finish it up. I mean the paint on this fender was really jacked up all the chips and peeling. So it really had to be taken all the way down.
Click to expand...

I understand your reasons, but when you use grit that course, you end up with some fairly deep scratches from the paper to have to get back out with finer grit paper later. I just creates more work for you. I don't think I'd go lower than 320 wet/dry paper to get the old stuff off.
 
Okay, painting just isn't my forte'. I can't stand the rasping noise and dislike the the time and process it all involves. My abilities are geared toward the mechanical part. If I had the money, some one else would be doing the painting and who actually enjoys that type of work lol.
 
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