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Konnick
Guest
At anything over about 3000 rpms I can't get into or out of 2nd gear. 79 GS850G
Any estimates on repair costs on a synchronizer?
Any estimates on repair costs on a synchronizer?
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There are no synchronizers, these are constant mesh transmissions.
You could have a problem with a shift fork, maybe something to do with the shifter parts hidden under the clutch, it's hard to tell from here. Can you describe a little better what happens when you try to shift?
You could have a problem with a shift fork, maybe something to do with the shifter parts hidden under the clutch, it's hard to tell from here. Can you describe a little better what happens when you try to shift?
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Konnick
Guest
If I am running less than 2500 rpms it's all fine. Anything over that and I can't even force it into second from first. Also have the same problem shifting from second to third. After third gear it seems to be fine.
I rode it around last weekend and after a stretch of highway miles it shifted fine. Maybe after it warmed up but that doesnt really make any sense does it?
I rode it around last weekend and after a stretch of highway miles it shifted fine. Maybe after it warmed up but that doesnt really make any sense does it?
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matt1100
Guest
Gotta be the clutch
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Konnick
Guest
I just got the bike a few weeks ago. It seemed to be working fine then. I only remember one time when it was hard to shift into second on the test drive.
Then the problems started this week. At first it worked best (into second) if I put foot pressure on the gear and then depressed the clutch. It seems to have gotten progressively worse.
I had problems last week but on the two long rides I took, by the time I did my turn around It was shifting fine. In fact my buddy and I switched bikes for the ride back and he didn't have any trouble at all.
Then the problems started this week. At first it worked best (into second) if I put foot pressure on the gear and then depressed the clutch. It seems to have gotten progressively worse.
I had problems last week but on the two long rides I took, by the time I did my turn around It was shifting fine. In fact my buddy and I switched bikes for the ride back and he didn't have any trouble at all.
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Konnick
Guest
The previous owner said it was due. I changed it yesterday.
Castrol Actevo x-tra 4T.
10w40 part synthetic.
http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-10W40-Actevo-X-tra-Motorcycle/dp/B0050J4IR2
Castrol Actevo x-tra 4T.
10w40 part synthetic.
http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-10W40-Actevo-X-tra-Motorcycle/dp/B0050J4IR2
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Konnick
Guest
To support my local family-owned bike shop that I've been buying tires, helmets and gear from for years? Rather than buying from wal-mart?
Yes. I did get my moneys worth. Thanks for asking.
Yes. I did get my moneys worth. Thanks for asking.
Cannot be the clutch, a lot of people never use the clutch to shift, it works just fine with or without.
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Konnick
Guest
Do you think it could be the blend? Should I stay away from blends too? I know not to use full synthetic.
I was just wondering if maybe you had put an energy conserving oil in, but I believe that would make the clutch slip
It could be a number of things, I'd start with an easy one by pulling the clutch cover and checking the end of the shift shaft for alignment, then checking the parts on the end of the shift drum.
After that , pull the motor, flip it over and take off the bottom case. Check the drum, forks and fork shafts.
Check out this fiche
http://www.beavertonmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
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240punk
Guest
Have you tried shifting without the clutch? Same problem?
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MisterCinders
Guest
Not to hijack, but I see this non-clutch shift referenced all the time. Is this as simple as just shifting? Is there some other part to the technique?
Dogma
Forum Sage
It's called speed shifting, and may have another name or two. Some people are convinced it will destroy your transmission. Some entertaining flame-wars, actually. Done properly, it's quicker than the clutch, and just as smooth. Done wrong, you'll embarrass yourself at best. At worst, you force the shifter and bend a fork, or grind the shift dogs.
It's easier to learn on the up-shifts. Pre-load the shifter, be careful not to use more force than usually necessary for a good, positive gear change. Roll off the throttle until the gears are unloaded. The pre-loaded lever clicks into the next gear and you roll right back on the throttle. Practice it using the clutch at first. As you get yourself trained onto how much you need to roll off the throttle, shifting quicker and quicker, you'll find you can use less and less clutch, until you're not using it at all. Downshifts are similar, but less forgiving. You don't need to do it to be cool or anything, but it would be a handy skill if you ever break a clutch cable without a spare.
It's easier to learn on the up-shifts. Pre-load the shifter, be careful not to use more force than usually necessary for a good, positive gear change. Roll off the throttle until the gears are unloaded. The pre-loaded lever clicks into the next gear and you roll right back on the throttle. Practice it using the clutch at first. As you get yourself trained onto how much you need to roll off the throttle, shifting quicker and quicker, you'll find you can use less and less clutch, until you're not using it at all. Downshifts are similar, but less forgiving. You don't need to do it to be cool or anything, but it would be a handy skill if you ever break a clutch cable without a spare.
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MisterCinders
Guest
Yeah. I have never tried it since it seems like something that could be a disaster. Would be useful if a cable went though. Thanks.
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Konnick
Guest
Actually, I was able to get it to shift by revving it up mostly like you were talking about. I just didn't realize that was what I was doing. I will take it out tomorrow and pay more attention.