3 rich plugs, white smoke/steam?

[Rein]

So I fired up the bike today, so excited that it fires up so quickly, and noticed something. The right exhaust pipe, after warming up, emits light smoke or steam. I changed the oil a few months ago, but I guess I could change it again. It's a very light smoking/steam, no dripping of anything.

Petcock is fine, so I don't think it leaked gas down to the oil.

Also, it seems like it's running rich. I've just been letting the bike idle for a few minutes each day, because I'm still waiting for the right cables and some mirrors before I go riding. Plugs 1,3, and 4 are black, and plug from cylinder 2 is light tannish brown. What should I do to correct it?

Also, after just starting and letting the bike idle for a few minutes each day, today, the battery died out. I've been starting and idling the bike for about 5 minutes each day, no riding, would that kill my battery? It's new, and an AGM battery, so the battery itself is fine.

My multimeter is shot, but I'll get a new one and test to see if it's charging, but last time I checked, the charging system was fine.

 

[almarconi]

Could be condensation in the exhaust system. Has it been raining in your area lately?

You should go through the stator papers and make sure your charging system is working. What's your voltage at the battery? the coils?

Where are your mixture screws set? Have you synced the carbs yet?

 

[Rein]

Could be condensation in the exhaust system. Has it been raining in your area lately?

You should go through the stator papers and make sure your charging system is working. What's your voltage at the battery? the coils?

Where are your mixture screws set? Have you synced the carbs yet?

You know, I was driving to pick up dinner, and that thought about condensation just popped into my mind. Yes, it has been, and it's on the side stand, so it makes sense that the right pipe would pick up some water.

Mix screws are set at 2.5 turns out. Carbs have not been synced yet, they were just cleaned completely, and I guess they do need a sync. I'm going to check the coils tomorrow after I pick up a multimeter. I did go through the stator papers a month and a half ago, and the bike was fine. I think I'll trim the ends of the ignition wires and get some fresh wire to test with. All cylinders are firing, all exhaust pipes are hot.

Although, I remember that the charging system on a bike isn't as powerful as a car, where it can be charged in a few minutes. I think my repeated starting of the bike, without riding it just killed the battery.

 

[81gs1100]

Although, I remember that the charging system on a bike isn't as powerful as a car, where it can be charged in a few minutes. I think my repeated starting of the bike, without riding it just killed the battery.

Check the break-even on the charging system, it should be at or above idle. Some weaker systems, or bikes with more assy. different wattage bulbs will have an affect on it. You might have to bump up the idle to maintain a positive amp to the batt.

An easy way to test this would be hook your multi-meter in series at the main fuse (pulling the fuse, setting, ADC, amps DC in the 20amp plug) Turn the key on, and it should show a negitive amp, start the bike and it should read positive Amps at idle. If not, see at what RPM the system breaks even and begins to charge. Set idle at that point, unless its crazy high. At that point you need to find the problem in your charging system.

 

[Rein]

Check the break-even on the charging system, it should be at or above idle. Some weaker systems, or bikes with more assy. different wattage bulbs will have an affect on it. You might have to bump up the idle to maintain a positive amp to the batt.

An easy way to test this would be hook your multi-meter in series at the main fuse (pulling the fuse, setting, ADC, amps DC in the 20amp plug) Turn the key on, and it should show a negitive amp, start the bike and it should read positive Amps at idle. If not, see at what RPM the system breaks even and begins to charge. Set idle at that point, unless its crazy high. At that point you need to find the problem in your charging system.

So if the idle has to be very high to maintain a positive charge, then there is a problem with my charging system? I think I just need to get it to 1200 rpms to get it to charge enough. I've set her at 1000 even, so that might have been less than what's needed.

 

[tkent02]

Why would you even start it if you are not riding it?
If you want to ruin the engine there are better ways to do it.

 

[Rein]

Why would you even start it if you are not riding it?
If you want to ruin the engine there are better ways to do it.

I've been doing small maintenance tasks in the last few days, like setting idle in accordance with the fuel mix screws. I've been learning to sync the carbs as well. Also had a new set of clutch plates installed, and checked to see if it engages and disengages correctly. Currently waiting on shorter cables, but routing the throttle and clutch cable to make sure they're fine (as far as idle) for now. I just tested the r/r yesterday and it's working fine. Hunted down an air leak the other day as well. Can't do those tasks without the engine running.

I live on a hill with plenty of breeze for the bike.

But thanks for the comment.

 

[Killer2600]

I've been doing small maintenance tasks in the last few days, like setting idle in accordance with the fuel mix screws. I've been learning to sync the carbs as well. Also had a new set of clutch plates installed, and checked to see if it engages and disengages correctly. Currently waiting on shorter cables, but routing the throttle and clutch cable to make sure they're fine (as far as idle) for now. I just tested the r/r yesterday and it's working fine. Hunted down an air leak the other day as well. Can't do those tasks without the engine running.

I live on a hill with plenty of breeze for the bike.

But thanks for the comment.

Adjusting the mixture screws or syncing the carbs require a properly warmed up engine which is best done with a quick 10 min ride. If the bike can't be ridden you definitely need a good size fan that can simulate the airflow that you'd get with an actual ride otherwise you'll have hot spots and cold spot in the engine that won't be there during actual riding. Course you need the fan during the tweaking to keep the engine from overheating too.

Just for future reference, bikes (old and new) don't charge the battery at idle. They either slowly discharge or break even, mainly due to the draw of the headlight and the small size of the charging system. If your bike is in storage that long I'd recommend a battery tender to promote long battery life and keep your bike able to start each time you crank her over for a quick run.

 

[Rein]

Adjusting the mixture screws or syncing the carbs require a properly warmed up engine which is best done with a quick 10 min ride. If the bike can't be ridden you definitely need a good size fan that can simulate the airflow that you'd get with an actual ride otherwise you'll have hot spots and cold spot in the engine that won't be there during actual riding. Course you need the fan during the tweaking to keep the engine from overheating too.

Just for future reference, bikes (old and new) don't charge the battery at idle. They either slowly discharge or break even, mainly due to the draw of the headlight and the small size of the charging system. If your bike is in storage that long I'd recommend a battery tender to promote long battery life and keep your bike able to start each time you crank her over for a quick run.

Like I said, constant breeze for the engine without it overheating. It's the rainy/windy season here, so for once, it's fairly cool in the mornings.

So my suspicions were confirmed about the charging system. Multimeter tests on the stator and charging system are fine.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I am going to agree with you and say that constant starting and idling is probably what killed your battery. It DOES take a little longer to recharge, and the battery is under the most strain obviously at cold cranking/start up. 5minutes of idle is NOT good for the bike, as evidenced by the steam (thats water condensation burning out of your pipes.) it doesnt get warm enough to boil the condensation out of the oil, and that is essential to keeping the motor and oil in good condition. If you're not going to ride it, and youre not actually working on it, dont start it. The fuel wont go off that fast, and you are actually doing more harm than good.

 

[Rein]

I am going to agree with you and say that constant starting and idling is probably what killed your battery. It DOES take a little longer to recharge, and the battery is under the most strain obviously at cold cranking/start up. 5minutes of idle is NOT good for the bike, as evidenced by the steam (thats water condensation burning out of your pipes.) it doesnt get warm enough to boil the condensation out of the oil, and that is essential to keeping the motor and oil in good condition. If you're not going to ride it, and youre not actually working on it, dont start it. The fuel wont go off that fast, and you are actually doing more harm than good.

So it's condensation in the oil or the pipes? I would think it's just in the pipe, since only the right pipe has steam.

Like I said, I've been starting it to check electrical (r/r), the clutch, and the throttle cables. I haven't just started it and let it sit while I go off somewhere else. I've fired it up a total of 3 times (since the valve adjustment), first to check if my valve adjustment did anything, then the next day to check the fuel mix screws and set the idle, then the next day to check my new clutch, and sync the carbs. During all that, I've been hunting down an air leak, which I found on the second day while setting the idle. I'm pretty sure you can't check the r/r, set the idle, or find an air leak with the engine off. Damn those silly little retainers things in the airbox! I hate getting those in place!

I hardly think starting the bike a total of three times, and idling for a combined total of 10 minutes over 3 days to adjust what I mentioned is going to damage the motor.

 

[TheCafeKid]

And LIKE I SAID starting the bike and NOT LETTING IT GET TO OPERATING TEMP is bad for it. Water collects in the motor. Its called condensation. Yes, the steam coming from your pipe was probably just what was in the pipe. But when you dont let the oil get hot enough (operating temp) to boil the water out of it, its not good. You've basicly just circulated water thru your motor. The amount of times youve done it? prolly not going to hurt it, but its not a good practice to fall in to.

 

[Rein]

And LIKE I SAID starting the bike and NOT LETTING IT GET TO OPERATING TEMP is bad for it. Water collects in the motor. Its called condensation. Yes, the steam coming from your pipe was probably just what was in the pipe. But when you dont let the oil get hot enough (operating temp) to boil the water out of it, its not good. You've basicly just circulated water thru your motor. The amount of times youve done it? prolly not going to hurt it, but its not a good practice to fall in to.

From what I read, I thought you meant that 5 minutes was too much or too long, as opposed to not long enough to get to operating temp. I think that's where the confusion is, at least for me. I don't intend to make it a regular practice, more than anything, I wanted to hop on and take off, but not before getting everything in top shape.

 

[tkent02]

Just fvcking ride it already.