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33mm smoothbores work on 79gs1000?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 79gs1000l
  • Start date Start date
They may be OK since your exhaust isn't too restrictive (holes in it?). My concern is the sizes that you list. Do these jets look like 1/2" long copper hex stock that have been drilled and tapped? They are not supposed to look like normal Mikuni jets. The Keihin jet numbers run smaller than the Mikunis for most applications.
 
I run 120 mains in 28mm mikunis with a warmed up motor. I would go for the smallest jets to start with. The motor they came off would have sucked rather hard!!

Good luck..if it is not fun it will at least be an experince.
 
I would wait till you get your megaophone v&h exhaust before you do the carb work or you will end up doing the job twice.Also if you plan on using the comp baffle they offer make sure thats in it when you jet. the comp baffle is louder but its a lower tone than most of todays 4 into ones and really makes a noticible difference in power. Ive been running that pipe on my bike for 16 years and it still looks good and runs awsome
 
Another not on the comp baffel--it makes low end run better. i have often used it when i became annoyed with the extra amount of throttle that i have to give the bike when taking off from stop lights
 
the jets are just over 1/4 inch and are round, they are tightened with a slotted screwdriver. Does the competition baffle come with the vance and hines 4-1 megaphone system. i don't want to move my foot peg or brake lever so i have to go with that system,(as far as i can tell). The only thing i have read about the baffle in this system is that it "delivers performance while meeting noise standards" is this the comp baffle or would i have to put one in? Would the comp baffle be a big improvement over the one it comes with? Also does any one know about the stock carb boots/manifolds? will the 33's fit into them? and when i put in the mains, smallest first, what should i look for as indicators that they are good, too big or too small.
 
The comp baffle does not come with the pipe. You have to order it seperate (part# 441364 from www.denniskirk.com about $26) When i jetted ,( and this could be bad advice I dont know) I started with the larger first. The reason for this was to rich wont hurt engine but too lean and you could end up with a melt down. Also if you get your new chrome pipe and go too lean with the jetting, it will turn the pipe blue and once its blue its hard to get it to look good again. You have to look at the color of your plugs after you have been running on the main jet for a little bit. also you want the inside of the exhaust pipe to have a gray color not black. If its a really light gray you might be on the lean side and if it is closer to black you are probally on the rich side same goes with the plugs the darker the plug the richer the mixture.I think you want a light graycolor after you have been running the bike on the main jet for a while (above 50mph on higway and you should be on the mainjet)
 
skip
thanks for the info on spark plug coloration it should come in handy. I know you recommend otherwise but I can't get the new pipe for a few months and I am just to impatient to wait that long to put on the carbs. so they are going on next week. when you jetted your bike did you just play around with the mains? are there other things I should adjust. the motor is bone stock if that will help any one with specific sizes of things I might need to check. I read at cope racing that 0.6 air correction jets(whatever those are) and a 0-6 needle jet are a good way to go on the 33's, any thoughts?
 
After re-reading all the previous post, I see your carbs came with jets that most likely wont get you in any danger of running too lean . You probably could start with the 130 mains if you are using the stock exhaust . i never had 33 smoothbores but i did have 29 smoothbores on my 860 cc kawasaki kz650 . You might have to adjust your slide needle height to get your mid range range correct. Iwould install the carbs with the 130's and see what you get .you can call mikuni's tech line ,tell them your bike and carb combo and see what they suggest.
dont be dissapointed if you dont see a big improvment in hp. remember you need three things to get more hp. more air in, more fuel, and more air out. The carbs and k&n filters will take care of more air in and more fuel but without the exhaust its got nowere to go.
 
I agree with you on the need for the new exhaust I just can't swing it right now. but soon.(relatively speaking) I would also like to have the head ported but thats a much later project. my question now is how do I adjust the slide needle height? can i do it with the carbs on the bike? and how would i know when it was "correct" The information i am getting from you guys is pure gold, i appreciate very much. thanks
 
Can you post a picture of your carbs? I was thinking they were the Keihin smoothbores because they generally came in odd-number sizes (31,33,37...) while the Mikunis were usually even numbers (except for the famous 29s). This would also let us be sure that we are giving you good advice as to needle changes (the method can be completely different depending on the carb type). Pull the top off one of the carbs and get a closeup of the mechanism inside, too.
 
I don't have a digital camera, my friend does so I will try to get his and post the pics of my carbs, if this helps you can see the ones I purchased at[/url]http://classifieds.internetvisionary.com/default.asp?action=addetail&adid=22898
 
I have got them on and running,I went and got some 115 mains the low end surprisingly is stronger than stock. the upper end is ok as long as i don't give it full throttle until 6,000 rpm. if i give it full throttle before then it just bogs. I am excited to get it jetted correctly because it does pull so well at 1/4 throttle. I get all excited to go but then i give it more gas and the power goes bye bye. also now that my air box is gone what do you do with the hose that went from the top of the cams to the airbox?
 
I would put the 130 mains in it and see how it runs. Check the plugs after a run and make sure that they aren't turning black. If it still stutters in midrange, then the needles probably need to be raised too. To do that, you need to remove those 2 screws down in the slide to get to the needles. Pull the needle out and move the e-ring down 1 notch on the needle. Replace the needle (any spacers too, same order) and screws. Do that for all 4 carbs. Run it again and check the plugs, there should be a big difference. Your carbs should be synched to your motor, too.
 
Don
When you say move the e ring down one notch that would bring the needle further out of the needle jet right? just want to make sure I am doing it right. The needle came out just as you described so now I am going to raise the needle putting less of the needle inside the needlejet.
 
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