• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

3rd header cold most of the time, but not always.

  • Thread starter Thread starter spadefoot
  • Start date Start date
OK, OK, I'm shamed! Once I get it back, I'll take a look at what it's doing and give it a try.
 
spadefoot said:
OK, OK, I'm shamed! Once I get it back, I'll take a look at what it's doing and give it a try.
Click to expand...
Me, I'd start with the carbs and be skeptical of all previous work on them. It's a pain to remove them, but once off, head to Basscliff's emporium for the carb cleaning lecture. Do it right or do it multiple times!
 
Well, I trust the friend that rebuilt carbs, he has a couple of old bikes (BMW and a Yamaha) that he's done carb re-builds on previously and they've been running for a years to decades. The cleaning by the local shop, I can't vouch for one way or the other, but it wasn't running right before I took it in, so his cleaning can't be the problem (thought it certainly wasn't the solution). Seriously folks, I'm just not going to work on the carbs. I know that's breaking rule # whatever about buying an old bike and not expecting to work on it, but I must admit, I am over my head. My friend that did the rebuild won't talk to me about the bike anymore, he's mad I bought a 4-cylinder (against his recommendation), and has washed his hands of it.

Once I have it back, I'll come back with some kind of description of the symptoms, and maybe I can pick the brains here.

Thanks!
 
I stripped my carbs right down to their component parts (all 4 apart) I now need to do these valves.
Anybody got some info/archive stuff on how to do em, only ever done locknut type?
 
It's all on BassCliffs site

a factory manual for your 78 plus a tutorial on how to measure and change shims
 
Hi,

I'm not sure who's thread this is any more. But I know one thing, if you don't fix your bike you can't ride it. To Mr. spadefoot and Mr. cockneyrick, this should get you started in the right direction.

Anyway, let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Try this from another post;

If it is oil fouled you may have a bad valve seal or a stuck oil ring. if it is sooty black it may be choke plunger leaking ????
What plug does it foul ? If it is # 3 it hooked to the petcock so that could be a problem ???

Last edited by SqDancerLynn1; 04-27-2011 at 05:43 PM.

Also, if it was a coil or condensor or points, you'd a pair of plugs not firing so I'd say it is a fuel issue or maybe a bad lead from the coil to the plug. Cap connection at the lead can be sketchy. Try unscrewing the plug cap, cutting an inch off the wire and rescrewing the cap on to make sure the connection is sound. keep us updated

spadefoot said:
I have an 82 gs650gl, that's I can't get to idle and seems to be having trouble getting the 3rd cyl to run. With full choke, it starts quickly, and most of the time clombs to about 200-2500 rpm and never moves past that, will die quickly if I let off the choke. Occasionally, I can get ti rev up to 7k or so, and then I can get it off the choke, but I have to stay on the throttle or it'll die. It seems like, on the occasions that I can get the RPM's up, that the 3rd cyl is running, otherwise, the header from #3 is cold (eventually it gets a little warm, but that's just conduction from the block, I'm pretty sure). 2 years ago, a pretty knowledgeable friend rebuilt the carbs and it ran fine the past two years, this year, when I pulled it out from storage, I have this problem with the #3 cyl. I've replaced the coils and the plug cables, swapped plugs, no avail. I pulled the drain plug for #3 and there was fuel in it. Anyone have any suggestions besides taking the carbs off and going through them again? Please?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
In my case I have all new:
Plugs
Taylor Leads
Dyna coils
Dyna S Ignition

And it fails to fire on 2# unless revved when it comes to life?
 
My brother had a 1980 gsx1100 that had number three running colder than the rest.l checked it and checked it again and l was convinced it was the carbies. Then l realised that the fuel tap relies on vacumm from number three cylinder for the tap to work corectly. the rubber gasket must have been faulty causing that cylinder to run richer which means it was running colder . l blocked the hose from number three and then left the tap on prime and number three cylinder came up to temperature.l replaced the fuel tap with a new one and it was all fixed.
 
Not that problem as I am using a slave tank with direct feed?
 
I checked the compression on the bike tonight, I got (approximately) 145, 125, 125, 145. From reading on the forum it sounds like anything over 120 is OK. I still can't get the 3rd cyl to run reliably. I'm getting spark, and the plug is wet w/ gas when I pull it.
 
OK, so, tonight's good news: Cyl 3 Decided to start operating! To be honest, I'm not sure what happened. The last week, I took the carbs and airbox off and re-installed the filter box ( and filter) that was supposed to be there. After I got that back together, I could get it to idle by turning the idle adjustment screw up to what should have been a pretty high setting, but only resulted in the 1100 rpm idle I sort of expected. Tonight, I got it warm and idling, then sprayed a little starter fluid around the intake boots, and discovered that I hadn't tightened one up quite enough (cyl 1, not #3 that's been be-deviling me). So, I tightened that up, then re-did the squirt check, no change in idle. On the off chance that I had a cracked boot somewhere in the rack, I started bumping the side of the rack with the heel of my hand to see if it produced anything odd. Suddenly, the idle zoomed to about 4k and stayed there. I let it go for a little bit, gave it a little throttle to see if it would drop back down, but it stayed up there at 4k. I then adjusted the idle screw back to what would be a more "normal" setting and got a nice idle of 1000-1100rpm with (wait for it) a hot 3rd header! I was so used to it being tepid, at best, that I nearly burned my hand. I ran out of shop time, so I couldn't experiment any more but tomorrow, if it'll still idle at that setting and #3 gets hot, I may be in business.
 
spadefoot said:
I started bumping the side of the rack with the heel of my hand to see if it produced anything odd. Suddenly, the idle zoomed to about 4k and stayed there. I let it go for a little bit, gave it a little throttle to see if it would drop back down, but it stayed up there at 4k. I then adjusted the idle screw back to what would be a more "normal" setting and got a nice idle of 1000-1100rpm with (wait for it) a hot 3rd header! I was so used to it being tepid, at best, that I nearly burned my hand. I ran out of shop time, so I couldn't experiment any more but tomorrow, if it'll still idle at that setting and #3 gets hot, I may be in business.
Click to expand...

Never under estimate the effectiveness of a BUMP!!!

A bit of a tip on testing the temperature of headers - have a spray bottle handy and spray water on the headers to see if they are all hot, if so the water evaporates off straight away.
 
Thanks for the tip on the spray, never even thought of that!

So, it ran well enough to ride it up to the local inspection place to get it inspected, but it's bogging down at low RPM's. Once the RPM's reach about 3k, it sort of "comes alive" and it's fine from there on out.

Still carbs, I'm guessing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top