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4-1 questions

Big T

Big T

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I have a 79 GS 1000 that I'm upgrading to a superbike replica, which is appropriate as it was a Vintage racer

It has what is supposed to be a Yoshimura race header on it. The header obviously had some air leaks, as it spits and pops on Decel.

I took it off today and found the sleeve cut on the pipe is really long. So long that it extends almost an inch past the header

fridge012.jpg


The #3 pipe has been bashed in and poorly repaired. It has a small leak

fridge009.jpg


So it's off to the welder to close those holes and the ones around the rear bracket.

My questions are,

Should there be a gasket where the header and pipe join?

If so, where do I find the high temp material?

Anyone ever pulled out the dents? Or pounded them out from the inside?
 
Most headers I've seen don't use a gasket.

I experimented with popping out dents in a header by pressurizing the pipe with compressed air and then heating the dented area with an oxy-acc torch. Was able to work out some of the dents but can't recommend the method per say.
 
Nessism said:
Most headers I've seen don't use a gasket.

I experimented with popping out dents in a header by pressurizing the pipe with compressed air and then heating the dented area with an oxy-acc torch. Was able to work out some of the dents but can't recommend the method per say.
Click to expand...

Hey BigT!
Check out this advice from djcrow22 that I received regarding the dents in a system I picked up from rover. He suggests using water, and freezing it to expand the pipe...click on his link in this thread below, and you'll see how he did it. I'm going to try it on mine when I get it!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1054681#post1054681

Jeff (teet)
 
Last edited:
That split is too long; I had to do the same thing recently as I could not get a mid off of the header. I had it rewelded together.

I have don a repair like your PO did to fill a dent. Not the greatest, but you can use a high heat metalized epoxy filler to fill in some of the rough stuff.

If you really know what you are doing those dents can be cut out straightened and rewelded in. (I have see pics)

You might have some success with one of these. Last time I was at HF they were out but I have the next two sizes up. This will not work in the bend.

I would get those sandblasted as they seem to have alot of scale.

This stuff is a little tricky to work with, but if you repaint with high heat paint it is better than trying to fill with excess paint. It will fill pin holes but you need to sand blast first to get it clean.

http://www.por15.com/FIRE-SEAL-2000/productinfo/FS2/




http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37352
 
teet said:
Hey BigT!
Check out this advice from djcrow22 that I received regarding the dents in a system I picked up from rover. He suggests using water, and freezing it to expand the pipe...click on his link in this thread below, and you'll see how he did it. I'm going to try it on mine when I get it!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1054681#post1054681

Jeff (teet)
Click to expand...

I recommend against this method. The ice will expand in all directions, not just in the area where the dent is. You could very well split the pipe wide open. Not worth the risk.
 
Unless you can plug the pipe , i dont think it works, i tried it on a Yoshi pipe and it did not do squat. I filled the pipe and stood it into a large freezer. Water froze but that was about it. Not sure where to get water tight plugs for the 2 1/2" collector???
 
Nessism said:
I recommend against this method. The ice will expand in all directions, not just in the area where the dent is. You could very well split the pipe wide open. Not worth the risk.
Click to expand...


So how did it work so well for him? I think it depends on each individual specific pipe..its overall condition, the amount and placement of dents, the amount of water used, how quickly freezing occurs, etc. I would think if you kept a close eye on it, it would still work. I don't think I'd try it on a $300 pipe...but a $20 pipe..why not?

I strayed off topic anyway..he was more concerned about the split..rightfully so.

Jeff (teet)
 
posplayr said:
That split is too long; I had to do the same thing recently as I could not get a mid off of the header. I had it rewelded together.

I have don a repair like your PO did to fill a dent. Not the greatest, but you can use a high heat metalized epoxy filler to fill in some of the rough stuff.

If you really know what you are doing those dents can be cut out straightened and rewelded in. (I have see pics)

You might have some success with one of these. Last time I was at HF they were out but I have the next two sizes up. This will not work in the bend.

I would get those sandblasted as they seem to have alot of scale.

This stuff is a little tricky to work with, but if you repaint with high heat paint it is better than trying to fill with excess paint. It will fill pin holes but you need to sand blast first to get it clean.

http://www.por15.com/FIRE-SEAL-2000/productinfo/FS2/




http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37352
Click to expand...

I'm waiting to hear back from Lee550, he has a blast cabinet and is branching into ceramic coating.
 
Big T said:
I'm waiting to hear back from Lee550, he has a blast cabinet and is branching into ceramic coating.
Click to expand...
I just did a Yoshi pipe with ceamic coating. Some tips:

1) Sandblast, then sand out the pits, then sandblast again until you have a uniform surface. The coating is thin and any imperfections or discontinuities on the surface will show through.
2) Use a spray gun.
3) Put on a coat just good enough to cover thoroughly - don't put on a heavy coat.
4) Bake at 500 for 1 hour (or higher if you have the capacity).
5) Admire your work. The finished results are amazing.
 
Hi Big T!

Funny how I notice this on the forum, but I don't have that cell phone with me, so you must have left me a message.

I can most likely just notch out that nasty looking weld, chop out a filler piece from another pipe, and sand the weld smooth. I can fill the notch too. Then off to the blaster here in town and then we'll shoot it with the ceramic coat stuff from columbia coatings. Go on their website and check out the colors. I did a pipe for Kevin and for Hammerhead. Kevin has yet to update me on the durability, but it looked really good when it came out of the oven!
 
LeeGS550E said:
Hi Big T!

Funny how I notice this on the forum, but I don't have that cell phone with me, so you must have left me a message.

I can most likely just notch out that nasty looking weld, chop out a filler piece from another pipe, and sand the weld smooth. I can fill the notch too. Then off to the blaster here in town and then we'll shoot it with the ceramic coat stuff from columbia coatings. Go on their website and check out the colors. I did a pipe for Kevin and for Hammerhead. Kevin has yet to update me on the durability, but it looked really good when it came out of the oven!
Click to expand...

Lee, Lee, Lee ( Big T paternal sound here)

You and your ever changing phone numbers. Yes, it has a VM on it.

Call me, I need this done before Shasta!!!!
 
Ok, but I still don't know what to do about the dent? It looks pretty big?
 
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