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550 carb rebuild questions

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debby, I believe partsn'more sells (or did as of last summer) their version of a carb rebuild kit that includes the pilot screw o-rings. The rest of their kit includes the floatvalve/seat assy', bowl gasket, and top gasket. Everyone seems to have their own ideas of what should be in a carb rebuild kit. Each kit was something like $12. I did'nt read to see if you already bought some kits.
If you have a Vance & Hines or auto carb shop nearby, they may be able to help. If you are forced into using the old o-rings, teflon tape can help stop the leaking. Cut the tape to a 1/4" wide strip and give 2 wraps TIGHTLY on the threads. Be sure to wrap the tape in the right direction. The end of the tape strip should be pointing away from the direction you are tightening.
 
K&L rebuild kits for my 1981 550L's CV carbs included the pilot screw with the tiny o-ring/washer/spring. The kits did not include the o-rings for the tubes connecting the carbs: I bought these at an auto-parts store.
 
which pilot screw? The air screw? Those orings are available from Suzuki. The fuel screw on the bottom is a different matter however. Suzuki doesn't even have a part number for them. I like the teflon tape idea. I think that's what I will do.

Hey Keith, any ideas for gettting those intake screws out? There's just no clearance in there for an impact wrench or anything. The only way I can see to get them loose is to take the head off. Then I could put it on a bench and get a clear shot at those stupid screws. I'm not about to do that any time soon though. Blah.

Debby
 
"Intake screws". You mean the manifold screws, right?
With the carbs out you should be able use an impact screwdriver, unless yours has an odd shaped end that holds the bit. If that's the case, then you'll need a different driver or a longer bit.
 
yes, the manifold screws. Impact driver doesn't fit, even with the carbs and airboot removed. There's just not enough clearance in there. Frame tubes get in the way. Maybe a stubby screwdriver with vicegrips clamped on the shank will work...

Debby
 
OK. Just be sure to use the best fitting screwdriver you can. I can offer one tip that may help. If you have a small 1/4" or so piece of solid rod, place that against the head of each screw and give it a solid hit with the regular claw hammer, then try removing them. A solid hit may help loosen any corrosion on the threads and it won't mess up the heads unless you really wacked it. And if you have any damage to the heads already, a solid hit can actually help re-form a phillips head screw and offer a better bite. Good luck!
 
I got the manifold screws out!!! :D I used a variety of tactics. The impact driver got a few of them out. Needle-nosed vise grips (Earl's suggestion on another thread) got a couple more loose, and for the rest I just knocked them loose with a cold chisel. I had a small one at the bottom of the toolbox that was just right. They all had a lot of corrosion on the threads; I think that's what made them so stubborn. Now I can put in the new orings and some nice stainless allen head screws. :D

Debby
 
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