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650's for a 450?

  • Thread starter Thread starter UncleMike
  • Start date Start date
Re: 650's for a 450?

The coils will work if the resistance between the + and - terminals is between 2 and 5 ohms. I cant tell from the pic what the mounting bolt hole spacing is, but it is easy enough to make a flat bracket to fit one end if need be.

Earl


UncleMike said:
These coils will work for my '81 450L, right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2468222727&ed=1080050178

I can't remember who, but a member of this site told me they'd be okay. Just thought I'd double-check before I slapped 'em on.

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
 
If you currently have two seperate coils they should work
 
UncleMike said:
How shall I test the resistance?
Click to expand...

any reading between the coil primary tabs (the + and -) on the end of the coil between 2 and 5 ohms is within normal service limits. Average is usually between 3 and 4 ohms. Set the meter on the ohm scale to 200 or if you have an X1 scale, use that one. Wiring harness leads to the coils should be disconnected during the test.

To check the secondary voltage, set the meter to the 200K ohm scale.
The meter probes are inserted inside the plug caps to touch the connector that normally clips over the top of the spark plug. Plug caps 1 and 4 are the left coil. Plug caps 2 and 3 are the right coil. Wire leads to the coils should still be disconnected for this test also. Any reading between 30-50K ohms is normal. If you reading is out of that range, I would replace the plug caps before assuming I needed new coils. You would need the NGK

I copied this from an advise from Earlfor.
 
I've never done this before. Never used a multimeter, although I now own a digital one. I assume the coils need to be on the bike, but if they're wrong, won't this fry my ignition?

I guess I just need a more simple, step-by-step explanation.
 
The coils do not need to be on the bike to check internal resistances.

Earl

UncleMike said:
I've never done this before. Never used a multimeter, although I now own a digital one. I assume the coils need to be on the bike, but if they're wrong, won't this fry my ignition?

I guess I just need a more simple, step-by-step explanation.
Click to expand...
 
But that thread is for four cylinder bikes. Wouldn't the process be different for my two cylinder? I just don't want to screw anything up.
 
Uhhh Mike, delete the part about checking the plug leads between all four cylinders. :-)

Earl

UncleMike said:
But that thread is for four cylinder bikes. Wouldn't the process be different for my two cylinder? I just don't want to screw anything up.
Click to expand...
 
Don't mean to sound like an idiot, but I really just don't know anything about this, and I'm scared to death of burning stuff out and/or electrocuting myself.

It really is possible to check the resistance on two coild that I have sitting here on my desk in front of me without putting them on the bike?
 
Yeah, you want to measure between the two spade connectors on the coil. If it doesn't have those you want to measure between two small wires. Set your multimeter to 200 Ohms (this means the highest number it can read is 199, it gives you better resolution for measuring than the 2000 ohm range). Keep your fingers off of the tips of the probes and connectors too, it will mess with the reading a little.

If you're really concerned about your decision it may be worth passing on them. Something else will come available.

Steve
 
Okay, the readings on the 2001 Suzuki 650 coils read at 4.6 and 4.7.


I also have coils from a 79 425 and they read at 4.7 and 5.0.

Now what?
 
Use the newer set of coils from the 650. They are within service specs for your bike.

Earl


UncleMike said:
Okay, the readings on the 2001 Suzuki 650 coils read at 4.6 and 4.7.


I also have coils from a 79 425 and they read at 4.7 and 5.0.

Now what?
Click to expand...
 
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