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77 Gs 750 carb woes

  • Thread starter Thread starter lwhite
  • Start date Start date
I think you may well be right, the new replacements are the same as my other 4 GS's, with 'O' rings & grooves. I originaly stated they were Suzuki, but on inspection, they only have 'made in japan' on them, obviously an inferior part.
 
lwhite said:
I think you may well be right, the new replacements are the same as my other 4 GS's, with 'O' rings & grooves. I originaly stated they were Suzuki, but on inspection, they only have 'made in japan' on them, obviously an inferior part.
Click to expand...
The ones in your pic' look like the groove was filled and then sanded or something.
Anyway, be sure to apply some hi-temp grease to the new o-rings and torque to about 6 ft/lb. Over-tightening just crushes them and shortens their service life.
Let us know how it runs.
 
Well, i've just recieved the new replacements, they have a groove (like my others) & O rings, I spoke to Suzuki, & apparrently, the very early 750's had these non 'O' ring inlets, but they soon changed them for this later type, mine ARE genuine, i've just found tiny 'S' logo on them.
Just fitted them, it starts & runs much better, got to get it sorted now!
newnold2ic.jpg
 
Ahhhh, thats more like it. :-)

Earl

lwhite said:
Well, i've just recieved the new replacements, they have a groove (like my others) & O rings, I spoke to Suzuki, & apparrently, the very early 750's had these non 'O' ring inlets, but they soon changed them for this later type, mine ARE genuine, i've just found tiny 'S' logo on them.
Just fitted them, it starts & runs much better, got to get it sorted now!
newnold2ic.jpg
Click to expand...
 
since the "O" rings were leaking and probably had been for some time, I suspect "sorting out" would be a carb synch. :-) :-)

eh ehe hehehhe

Earl

KEITH KRAUSE said:
Glad to hear the bike's running better. What needs "sorting out"?
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
since the "O" rings were leaking and probably had been for some time, I suspect "sorting out" would be a carb synch. :-) :-)

eh ehe hehehhe

Earl

KEITH KRAUSE said:
Glad to hear the bike's running better. What needs "sorting out"?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Go to bed Earl.
 
Yeh, its running better, but its still crap! That what I meant by 'sorting out'.
I,ve put the air-box & filter back on, Choke out, starts instantly, & runs fast just like my 2 1000's & 1100, I can push the choke to just below halfway, & rpm's drop, any less choke & it dies, even with a warm engine, it won't start at all without choke, i've tried with all the slides 'bottomed' as far as they will go, as per instructions, no different, tried lifting them all in sync a bit, won't run at all. I feel sure that once (if) I can get the revs down, i'll be able to tune the carbs, but at the moment, whatever I seem to do, it will only run from 2000-5000 rpm on the choke position alone, touch the throttle & there's a big induction roar & it dies.

To give you an idea as to what I have, start your cold engine on full choke, then imediately open the throttle, it dies with induction roar, right?Thats what I have!
 
On my 79 750E (same setup as yours), I found the optimum pilot fuel screw setting was 1 1/4 turn out. Pilot air screw was 1 3/4 turns out.
Float bowls set to 25 mm. (yeah, I know 25mm is beyond the book range)
I found hard starting and need of full choke was eliminated by having a higher fuel level in the float bowls, hence the 25 mm setting.

Earl


lwhite said:
Yeh, its running better, but its still crap! That what I meant by 'sorting out'.
I,ve put the air-box & filter back on, Choke out, starts instantly, & runs fast just like my 2 1000's & 1100, I can push the choke to just below halfway, & rpm's drop, any less choke & it dies, even with a warm engine, it won't start at all without choke, i've tried with all the slides 'bottomed' as far as they will go, as per instructions, no different, tried lifting them all in sync a bit, won't run at all. I feel sure that once (if) I can get the revs down, i'll be able to tune the carbs, but at the moment, whatever I seem to do, it will only run from 2000-5000 rpm on the choke position alone, touch the throttle & there's a big induction roar & it dies.

To give you an idea as to what I have, start your cold engine on full choke, then imediately open the throttle, it dies with induction roar, right?Thats what I have!
Click to expand...
 
Should be spot on. Those were for my bike with stock pipes and airbox/filter and 102.5 mains.

Earl

lwhite said:
Thanks, I'll try those settings, (tomorrow)
Click to expand...
 
Hmmm...What I don't understand is you say the bike has been through this "start up after storage" routine many times and had no problems.
The carbs wouldn't lose their adjustments (floats/fuel& air screws/synch) from sitting. Only thing carb related would be old fuel varnishing up the jets/passages. You say you've cleaned them completely. You also say you've bench synched correctly.
So what your bike is doing is showing fuel starvation. Caused by either poor vacuum or lack of fuel.
Did you check out my bench synch instructions in my earlier post? Is that how you've done it?
 
earlfor said:
Should be spot on. Those were for my bike with stock pipes and airbox/filter and 102.5 mains.
My mains are 105, & according to suzuki, thats what they should be.
I can't really do anything until the weekend, as its dark when I get in from work, & the lighting isn't good enough to 'tinkle' with the screws in the garage, i'll look at it outside in the UK's awful winter daylight this weekend!!
Click to expand...
 
No way

No way

earlfor said:
Sounds like the carbs are badly out of synch.
Click to expand...

It is impossible for that to work, it simply can not be done like that.
 
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