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77 gs550 overcharging?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hell or high water
  • Start date Start date
Yes it should be fused on the positive side except using a 40A fuse on the Compu-Fire schematic would be the same as direct wiring given the wire size used on the Suzuki. A lot of damage could happen before a fuse of that size would blow. A25A fuse is more realistic. The Compu-Fire is capable of handling a lot more amperage then the system is designed for so a GS can't produce that type of power. Apparently some different bikes are wired that way but I imagine the Compu-Fire drawing is just a general schematic to show necessary power, ground and stator wire hook up. Jim explained that with the Suzuki wiring, doing it that way could result in bad results in some circumstances. I ran mine that way for a while and changed it back after reading his posts. It was a long time ago so you need to talk to Jim for the details.
 
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OldVet66 said:
Yes it should be fused on the positive side except using a 40A fuse on the Compu-Fire schematic would be the same as direct wiring given the wire size used on the Suzuki. A lot of damage could happen before a fuse of that size would blow. A25A fuse is more realistic. The Compu-Fire is capable of handling a lot more amperage then the system is designed for so a GS can't produce that type of power. Apparently some different bikes are wired that way but I imagine the Compu-Fire drawing is just a general schematic to show necessary power, ground and stator wire hook up. Jim explained that with the Suzuki wiring, doing it that way could result in bad results in some circumstances. I ran mine that way for a while and changed it back after reading his posts. It was a long time ago so you need to talk to Jim for the details.
Click to expand...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-Charging-System-Health&p=1138898#post1138898
 
I wired my bike like the popular way according to your thread posplayr, as I read your post my understanding is that if you split after the regulator output you are then wiring the r/r parallel to the run circuit causing current drop on the charging side and the run circuit side. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Because in parallel circuits current drops but voltage is constant... if I remember right. Will this cause an increased demand on the output of the regulator if say I run my lights on? Because the current is less? Sorry I'm just trying to understand the best I can. Thanks for all your guys help so far!
 
Read that link that posplayr posted.. it explains the advantage of wiring positive from r/r into original harness connection.
 
Hell or high water said:
I wired my bike like the popular way according to your thread posplayr, as I read your post my understanding is that if you split after the regulator output you are then wiring the r/r parallel to the run circuit causing current drop on the charging side and the run circuit side. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Because in parallel circuits current drops but voltage is constant... if I remember right. Will this cause an increased demand on the output of the regulator if say I run my lights on? Because the current is less? Sorry I'm just trying to understand the best I can. Thanks for all your guys help so far!
Click to expand...

It has to do with how much current runs through the fuse box. the "popular" way requires a higher fuse which means less protection when a short really occurs. Also the popular way the bike will quite instantly oif the main fuse ever blows (vibration or otherwise).

Nothing to do with stressing the R/R.


WIRING_COMPARE_3_zps591bfacc.jpg
 
Ah I see thanks for explaining that, I'll rewire it the original way to see if it makes a difference. I bought the r/r that was in the link for a genuine sh775. I verified the print on the back of the unit. So I'm going to replace the stator as well... I was looking at the one rmstator offers on their site. Any comments or suggestions on replacement stator?
 
Get a stator with heavy epoxy ; Electrosprt are generally heavy at least for the big bikes. Look at the pictures for your model.
 
So we addressed the stator and r/r issues, are there any opinions or suggestions on battery types? I've been useing gel type but I recently read they require smaller recharging current. Would it be safer to use an agm battery or a lead acid battery? Thanks again guys!
 
Ok so I verified my wiring job on the bike. Looking at the original wiring diagram one leg of the stator makes a loop through the light switch... I disregarded this in my loom and connected the three stator wires directly to the r/r. Could this be a potential problem? Surely that small run of wire would not create enough resistance to affect anything right? Otherwise I rewired the output of the regulator to both the battery and the main power to the switch like posplayr suggested. While I have the loom opened up I wanted to know if I need to rewire the weird stator loop through the switch.
 
Hell or high water said:
So we addressed the stator and r/r issues, are there any opinions or suggestions on battery types? I've been useing gel type but I recently read they require smaller recharging current. Would it be safer to use an agm battery or a lead acid battery? Thanks again guys!
Click to expand...

The lead acid battery will eventually boil over spewing corrosive yuk on your frame and swingarm. AGM are great batteries. Never had a gel battery so can't comment there.
 
The loop through the light switch should be abandoned permanently. It was only relevant for the old shunt R/R to disable a leg of the stator when the light was turned off to prevent overcharging. Not necessary any more. The output of the R/R should only be connected to the original connection, not both that and the battery. I have had good luck with AGM batteries.
 
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Gel batteries do very well for me; I'm slowly converting every bike over to them. I haven't had the need for AGM ones yet.
 
Sorry I wasent very clear when I said I rewired the bike. There was no wiring harness when I got the bike and all the used ones I found were pretty chopped up and I couldent trust them, so I wired the bike from scratch using the original wiring diagram for my my model gs. The original connections were not there, I had to make them. Here's the diagram I used. IMG_0232.jpgThe only difference is that I eliminated the loop and ran the three legs directly to the r/r.
 
Good Job. It sounded like you were saying you made a R/R connection directly to the battery in addition to your harness "I rewired the output of the regulator to both the battery and the main power to the switch". I didn't know you rewired according to the schematic.
 
Okay so doing a little internet surfing on battery's lead me to a new option. I found a lithium ion 8cell battery from ballistic that looked pretty sweet, my question is this. When they are discharged to far don't they catch on fire? I seem to remember back in my rc car days some lithium packs lighting on fire when discharged to far...it's been a little while though. Anyways anyone on here with experience on these battery's?
 
Some have but I wouldn't want to be sitting on top of one with a fuel tank. There are too many other options that have a lot more cranking power. If weight is a prime concern, you started with the wrong bike in the first place. Both AGM and GEL batteries can be mounted in any position. Personally I believe AGM is a little tougher for the application.
 
Fair enough, I'm not really concerned about weight at this point. I'm really just concerned with the reliability of the bike now. I've got it looking how I want but it's stranded me a few times and being my first bike it's kind of killing the enjoyment of the whole experience.
 
Next question and maybe a dumb one but how important are battery brands nowadays? Is a 100 dollar agm battery that much better than a 50 dollar one?
 
Hell or high water said:
Next question and maybe a dumb one but how important are battery brands nowadays? Is a 100 dollar agm battery that much better than a 50 dollar one?
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Not much. There aren't that many battery factories; globally speaking, and your 50$ battery could've very well come from the same factory as the 100$ one. Of course, there are quite a bit of other factors in play (for example, how long the battery was in storage before it got into your hands, etc. etc.), so don't disregard brands completely - but don't let it be the sole deciding factor as well.

IMO, the construction type (Wet, Gel, AGM) of the battery is more important.
 
So here's the old stator. Other than the wires being hard after they enter the case I dident notice anything wrong with it. Let me know if you guys see anything.IMG_0690.jpg
 
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