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'77 GS750 issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter rightious
  • Start date Start date
rightious said:
so i got my berrymans carb dip, but everwhere i read about it, it says not to leave anything in it for more than 30 min. i've heard you guys saying to leave it in for 24 hrs... are they just being over careful, or will if mess it up if i do leave it in for a long period of time?

i plan to clean them tonight.

:clap:
Click to expand...
24 hours is likely going to be NECESSITY if you want them clean for sure... 30 mins will clean off gunk, but not 30 years of varnished gas...
 
tkent02 said:
Opening the side panels on that airbox allows air into the carbs without going through the filter, I am sitting here looking at one. Without those covers, the filter is bypassed. The filter is on the large passage between the two levels, either level is open to airflow without the covers.
Click to expand...

right on dude, thank you. thats what im saying.

tkent02 said:
Mine have been in there a week now, they look OK. But it is Gunk, not Berrymans.
Click to expand...

so you think that 24 hours wont duck anything up? i was going to do it tonight, but i ended up going to the bar... the can says 30 min, i just want to make sure 24 hours wont do any harm, i.e. eat any aluminum or anything. if it wont mess anything up, then i'll let them soak for as long as necessary...
 
carb specs

carb specs

ok, so here's what i got:

1977 gs750
102 mains
15 pilot
my bottom screw is 3/4 out
my side screw is 1 1/2 out

i have used the search, but i get a couple different specs for it.
when i re assemble my CLEAN carbs, is this right, or is this off?

thanks peeps:pray:
 
rightious said:
so you think that 24 hours wont duck anything up? i was going to do it tonight, but i ended up going to the bar... the can says 30 min, i just want to make sure 24 hours wont do any harm, i.e. eat any aluminum or anything. if it wont mess anything up, then i'll let them soak for as long as necessary...
Click to expand...

Dipping a set of black carbs, it ruined most of the paint. So I left them in a week to get the rest of the paint off. Didn't hurt anything. Again, it's Gunk, not Berryman's.


rightious said:
ok, so here's what i got:

1977 gs750
102 mains
15 pilot
my bottom screw is 3/4 out
my side screw is 1 1/2 out

i have used the search, but i get a couple different specs for it.
when i re assemble my CLEAN carbs, is this right, or is this off?

thanks peeps:pray:
Click to expand...

That should be about right to get you started for a 750 with stock intake/exhausts.
 
to add to the specs of my carbs:

my clip is in the 2nd position.

i bought the berrymans 1 gal can of carb dip, so i can only do 1 at a time. i hope this makes the difference. i will put the muffler and air box back on just so i can get the rest of the dwindling season out of this beast...
 
hopefully someone is still following this post...

hopefully someone is still following this post...

so i dipped my carbs, re-assembled them with rebuild kits, bottom screw out 3/4, side screw out 1 1/2... i am having the exact same problems. when i rev it from idol, it boggs out. if i slowly bring up the rpms, then i can rev it up fine.

help!!
 
Did you clean/replace that airfilter? If so try opening up the side air screws some more - another half turn to start and see if that helps the bogging.
 
missing parts...

missing parts...

so i reassembled the slides with the needle, but when i took it apart, it didnt have a spacer or spring... after looking at the vm carb rebuild...http://www.thegsresources.com/files/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf... it shows the spring and spacer, if i do not have the spring, could that be my problem?

also, where does the spring go, i bought the rebuild kits and it came with an 'extra' spring that goes on the needle, does it go right below the clip?


thanks guys
 
I'm no expert, but when I pulled my carbs apart they had the fat spacer above the e-clip, the thin one below and the spring on the bottom of the needle as per http://www.thegsresources.com/files/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf.

To me the spring looked essential to maintain the needle in the correct position, as its the top spacer which dictates the needle height and the spring pushes up on it to ensure this.
 
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