• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

78 gs1000 carb question

  • Thread starter Thread starter kranker1450
  • Start date Start date
K

kranker1450

Guest
I have a 78 gs1000 with a stock motor and exhaust. I am going to be rebuilding the carbs and I am going to change the stock air filter to pods. The question I have is do I need to put a dynojet stage one kit in them or will the be okay.

Thanks for the help Krank
 
Last edited:
VM carbs don't really need a kit, since all the necessary parts are available

Why the pods with a stock exhaust?
 
Thanks for the help guys.

Where would be a good starting point for jetting?

Big T, I just dont have the extra cash right now for the exhaust also. And I really don't like the stock filters. Since I had the carbs apart to clean them I figured it would be a good time to put the kits in..

Is Z1 the best place to get the dynojet kit.

7981GS, I will be upgraded the ignition on it also as soon as the funds allow it. What system would you recommend for it. I would like to have something that has a rev limiter in it as it will be ran down the 1/4 mile.

Thanks Krank
 
Last edited:
If I can make a suggestion it would be to wait until you can buy a quality pipe to better match the increased flow of the new pods. Also, if the pods are not K&N that can complicate the jetting. It may seem convenient right now to change just the pods but keep in mind a stage 1 kit isn't designed for pods only (correct me if I'm wrong) and a stage 3 kit is for BOTH pods/pipe. The stock pipe and pods are a poor flow match. Jetting issues are almost built-in. The restrictive pipe will eliminate much of the gains of the pods.
I can help you with jetting if you install a pipe and a stage 3 kit or if you choose to use separate jets because you can't afford or find a DJ stage 3 kit. The kit gives better results though and more often than going with separate jetting parts.
If you insist on re-jetting just for pods then I'll suggest a main jet increase of 4 to 5 full sizes (20 to 25). Your stock mains are 95. So I think a minimum of 115 is needed and a maximum of 120. I'd probably try 117.5 and be right in the middle. This suggestion is largely based on DJ's stage 3 kit that supplies a main jet equivalent to a 130 Mikuni main. DJ and Mikuni size their jets differently but the supplied 138 DJ main is approx' the same as a 130 Mikuni. So you have an increase of 7 full sizes (7 X 5) to go from a 95 to a 130. That's for both quality pipe and K&N pods. So I'd say 4 to 5 of those sizes increase would work for just pods though you have to keep in mind the advice above is based on using K&N pods. As always, test to see what works. Test the mains at full throttle.
Then you'll need to richen the jet needle positions. That's the most work on your carbs and you need proper fitting tools and basic knowledge to do it right. Also, to re-jet correctly, you need to bench synch the carbs slides and then follow that with a vacuum tool synch. Whenever you disturb the VM slides you must re-synch. Getting the jet needles right the first time is difficult and because you're using parts that are a poor flow match you may have more trouble. I'd allow one full richer position for the pods only. That means raising the needles by placing the e-clip one position lower on the jet needles (position 4). I doubt you would be rich but you could still be lean and have to make further adjustments. You have to test to see. For the jet needle, ride at a solid 1/2 throttle position, chop off, and note performance/check the plugs.
As for the pilot circuit, you MAY be able to simply richen the circuit by turning the pilot fuel screws (underneath/engine side) OUT a little. Maybe 1/4 additional turn to start. Test at minimal throttle openings (cruise around town) and note performance/check the plugs. Do what the plugs/performance say. If necessary, you may need to increase the pilot jets to 17.5.
Lastly, I suggest you remove the two floatbowl vent lines and leave the ports open to breath. This is suggested in the DJ jetting instructions. If you leave them on it can compromise bowl venting and the result is fuel starvation at various levels depending on crosswinds, etc.
I'd wait but that's up to you. Also, no matter what you decide, I'd replace the manifold o-rings while you have things apart. They're inexpensive but if the manifolds still have the stock Phillips screws they can be difficult to remove. Use an impact driver and a GOOD fitting bit. Then replace them with Allen bolts. Coat the new o-rings with some hi-temp bearig grease to help them last and torque to about 9 ft/lb is plenty. More torque just flattens the o-rings and they tend to crack sooner.
 
Last edited:
I agree, wait until you get the pipe before you go thru rejetting

Buying a stock air filter in the meantime is cheaper than having sets of jets you won't use again

Again, you carbs don't need a DJ kit. Bumping up your main jet and raising the needle generally does the trick
 
what kind of pipe upgrade is required for the stage 3 jets with pods?
 
Thanks Keith for the great info!!!! I was going to go with a pipe and new pods but the cash fell through. I will hold on to the dj kit until I have the other parts and take your advice on just re jetting and needle adjustment. Where would be a good place to get the jets?

Thanks krank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top