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78 GS1000 Gas/Sputtering/Bogging when turn left.

  • Thread starter Thread starter getsum
  • Start date Start date
G

getsum

Guest
I just put the tank back on.

After a little throttle/choke I got the engine to run.
SOunded just fine....

I took it out on the road after it warmed up and it ran good.
I only ran it 5 minutes or so.

I turned around at an intersection "sharp U turn"
As I came out of the uUturn the engine started to bog/engine "popping sound once" / then it felt like it was not getting enought gas, but if I gave it gas it would do nothing.


I slowed down - got it in 1st gear stopped at a light , pulled off and ran it 30 yards or so in 2nd gear - idle down the raod....

After 30 - 40 yards the problem cleared up ..

What is it ???

I put a longer gas line on it - I am going to go trim it a bit ----

Call me if you have a chance ---

JOE --972 814 4131
 
Might have been just a glitch. I wouldn't worry about it unless it does it again.
Yes, the fuel line needs to be the right length and no partial kinks.
 
I have also had a similar problem after replacing a fuel line. You want to also make sure that the line always runs down hill to the carbs. Not sure why, but if it loops back up just a bit, it causes problems. Any chance you have an in-line fuel filter? They can cause the same problems, too.


.
 
Help -----

Help -----

Well - I went out and made sure that the gas line was not too long - it was looping back up ...

So I went and cut it down and now it is going downward.

ButI am still having the same problem.

The bike starts well - but after I make a left or right turn it bogs / backfires a little / and sounds rough.

The issues did not go away this time.
agfter idling around he neighborhood and all it still sputters/pops and rides rough.

Also --- I notice that the inline fuel filter It is "clear" stay about 1/2 to 1/4 of the way full
-----IS this a problem ?
 
Don't know about the fuel filter, except to say I suggest removing it. The stock petcock screen should remove any debris. If the tank is rusty/dirty, it should be cleaned and sealed. Fuel filters aren't needed on a correctly maintained bike and many times cause problems.
Your fuel flow problem shouldn't be related to the bars turning because the throttle cables and fuel line are on opposite sides of the frame. Even if something WAS momentarily pinching the fuel line there wouldn't be an immediate effect on flow since your bike will run fine for about 1/2 mile from just the fuel remaining in the fuel line and carb passages.
But the stalling/sputtering would be related to either closing the throttle as you turn and/or the float bowl fuel level changing as you lean the bike.
I'm guessing your float bowl fuel level is low at one carb or more. Only takes one carb to have your problem. If the level is low, the bike can run OK if level, but turning will change the levels surface angle and this will make it hard for the shorter pilot jet to draw fuel. Effect would be immediate.
Removing/installing the tank or ? could have stirred up rust/dirt particles and they could clog the float valve needle seat or any float valve screen your model may use. This could cause slow fuel flow into the bowl(s). Particles stuck at the float valve tip/seat usually cause a fuel overflow problem that you can easily see coming out the bowls overflow line, the opposite of your situation, but that's not always the case. I've also seen valves get a burr on them and get stuck in the seat and lessen flow or stop the valve from sealing. I'd check the valves and any screens first. Also check the passage to the seat. If rust particles found, I suggest a complete cleaning of the carbs passages and repairing the tank.
If all are good, I'd suspect a sticking/incorrectly adjusted float.
Correct float levels are .94" I believe for your model. Did you check or adjust them?
 
Well-
After driving around the neighborhood on and off for 5 - 15 minutes at a time the problem did not go away ---
ACTUALLY - Now It seems worse.

The engine will not stay running.
When I turn it on - the engine sounds a little weak and weezy.

If you give it gas it will run bot it will eventually die and stop running.


ARGGGGGHHHHHHHH..

As for the bike --
It ran fine .
I took the tank to get all holes fixed and sealed .
All I have done is put it on the bike and put a new hose on it which now looks like it is getting gas to the carbs --

Got it back put it on and now I have these problems.

I am totally bumm,ed with this.
 
HELP is appreciated

HELP is appreciated

UPDATE------

as for the tank --- I had just gotten it back from the shop.
It was sandblasted/sealed/all pin holes welded / repainted/ new petcock from guy here on board. (Old one was extremely nasty and inside of throat was broken out)

OK - I went out and tinkered with it some more.
Noticed the inline fuel filter seemed to stay low and at times would be empty when it dies.

So I turned the PETCOCK to RES.

Now the inline filter seems to stay FULL and the FOR THE MOMENT "KNOCK ON WOOD" it seems to be running fine.

Now - I am guessing it is the Petcock - What do you think ???

Will leaving the PETCOCK in the RES position be any different than if it were in the on position ? (besides making sure I do not run out of gas)

Reason for asking is - It might be a week or so before I can get a new PETCOCK or have time to work on it.


Thanks for all the help my friends... I truly appreciate it.
 
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If the problem is directly related to the tank removal, then check what I posted earlier. Makes even more sense now that it's getting worse.
I always recommend removing the carbs because it's easier to work on them and you can check/adjust the floats too, BUT, you can check the valves and seats by just removing the bowls if you have the right tool like a stubby Phillips screwdriver for the stock screws. It's easy for me because I've done it so many times.
Put a towel down to catch things if you drop them. Don't mix up the valves and seats. Keep them as a unit. Be careful if any float tower pins are stuck in their holes. Don't break a tower with too much force. If stuck, I suggest removing the carbs to do a proper inspection/repair. Clean any valve screens. Turn the petcock to prime and rinse the passages out into a pan. Look up there with a light and verify the passages are clear. You WILL need some finger dexterity to re-install the valves, floats and slip in the float pins correctly when the carbs are on the bike. Don't bend a float.
 
OK. I made my previous post before I saw your latest one.
It could be because your tank level was low enough to need setting to reserve(?). The gas really sloshes around a lot in a turn.
Funny, because I thought about this at the beginning of your thread but figured you would check that already. Simple things are often taken for granted. With all the threads I've watched, I should know better by now.
Your stock petcock has two fuel towers. The taller one supplies fuel until approx' 1 gallon remains. Then you must select reserve on the petcock.
I'm guessing the bike will run fine now. :) I'm guessing the petcock is fine too.
 
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hahah I'm an idiot

hahah I'm an idiot

HAHAHAHAHA

I caught that idea onceI had it running ok while it was on RES..

I only put about 1 gallon of gas in it.

I eventually thought - the tower sticks up and that might have something to do with it when turning.

I am an idiot..
But hey- I can admit it.

DUH...
Thanks Keith
You the man.......

Iowe you a beer if you are ever in DALLAS , TEXAS.

It seems to be good for now.
I will put moire gas in tit tomorrow.

HAHAHAHA
I'm a smuck


But I am not going to get too happy until I actually fill the tank and it is running.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to the guys that helped me on this --

I put another 4 gallons or so in it - once it warmed up it ran fine..

(but in the back of my mind I keep wondering if anything is going to happen )

I can't sweat it till something happens though...

YOU ARE ALL #1

if ever in Dallas let me know - I owe you a beer.\\:D/
 
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