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'78 gs750ec

allojohn said:
Ha! that's a bit harsh, LOL!
Click to expand...

It's true! GSR folks are CHEAP! Me too (sometimes).:o

Progressive front springs are tried and true. If those Works springs cost more I'd question the value.
 
Nessism said:
Just to make myself clear, I do NOT recommend using an easy-out. I suggest use of LH drill bits and progressively steping up the size until the bolt is cleared out. If necessary, a tap can be used to do the final clean up.

Easy-outs love to break off, and then they are almost impossible to drill out. Best to stay clear of them entirely unless you are highly skilled in their use.
Click to expand...
That's fair enough, hence why i said if you HAVE to use them, use the largest possible diameter one you can fit in there. and given the size of the bolt that's stuck, you can get a pretty big (and consequently strong) easy-out in there. Also i agree, the centering bit is very important regardless of what method is adopted.

I have to admit though, the left hand drill bits is a clever idea. He may find that a combination of LH drillbits & the freeze & release is enough to get that bolt stub out.
 
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Been looking at the All Balls steering head conversion and I need some clarification. It appears to need an alteration on the steering stem which would require a machine shop. What exactly is this alteration?
 
allojohn said:
Been looking at the All Balls steering head conversion and I need some clarification. It appears to need an alteration on the steering stem which would require a machine shop. What exactly is this alteration?
Click to expand...

Judging by the lack of posts elsewhere regarding this modification and the zero response to my question I will assume this is an unnecessary modification and stick with the loose balls!

The balls and the races looked perfect and were well greased when I took them out anyway.
 
Nessism said:
It's true! GSR folks are CHEAP! Me too (sometimes).:o

Progressive front springs are tried and true. If those Works springs cost more I'd question the value.
Click to expand...

Ikons are solid and perform well. They cost quite a bit less than the works shocks.

allojohn said:
Judging by the lack of posts elsewhere regarding this modification and the zero response to my question I will assume this is an unnecessary modification and stick with the loose balls!

The balls and the races looked perfect and were well greased when I took them out anyway.
Click to expand...

Not familiar with the All Balls conversion. If you have thesteering assembly apart you may consider a tapered roller bearing conversion. They last forever even under severe service.
 
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Thanks Rudy, I'll take a look at the Ikons.

On the steering bearing question I found the mod to fit tapered bearings info on the All Balls site, this is it.

pre79-steeringmod.jpg


On pre '79 models an undercut must be added below the upper bearing. Of all the retailers offering this kit, Z1 is the only one which mentions this.
 
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Had to beat the crap out of the fork seals to get them out. The replacement lower left leg arrived courtesy of AJ in Florida. And both inner legs were spotless, free of any chips, dings or rust. Ready give everything a good clean and insert the new seals.

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Rudeman said:
Ikons are solid and perform well. They cost quite a bit less than the works shocks.



Not familiar with the All Balls conversion. If you have the steering assembly apart you may consider a tapered roller bearing conversion. They last forever even under severe service.
Click to expand...

Thanks again Rudy, I thought the All Balls kit was the only one available for the '78 but after you posted I kept searching and found a tapered bearing kit from Sudco that will drop right in.
 
For those novice wrenches, like me, do yourself a favor and buy a seal puller for removing fork oil seals. I bought one, after I had removed two seals by brute force, because I needed the washer that sits under the seal from a third lower leg I had. It came out just like that and I wish I had bought the damned tool for the first two. Doh!
 
Finally got around to fixing the broken bolt in the head. As per instructions from Nessism & mike-s I heated the bolt with a blow torch and blasted it with Freeze Out (couldn't get hold of Freeze & Release).

I used a "QuikCenter" collar even though the cooling fins prevented it being centered perfectly over the broken bolt. I used a small drill first and progressively used larger drills working to get it centered on the bolt. I had hoped using LH drill bits might cause the bolt to unscrew but that didn't happen.

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All in all I'm chuffed to bits, this could have gone badly wrong but thanks to great advice (Nessism / mike-s) it's fixed.
 
Calipers

Calipers

Today I dismantled the calipers. I used the forum approved method (compressed air) and boy did it work well! I leaned over the rear caliper with the air hose to force air in and about half a second later the piston flew by my ear!

There was once brake fluid in here, no sign of it now.

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Looks like both the front caliper pistons need replacing.

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July update. Painted and rebuilt the front & rear calipers, rebuilt front & rear master cylinders. Polished the forks and inserted the new seals. Polished the engine casings. Replaced clutch springs.

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Put the inlet boots back on with new o-rings.

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Drilled out the swing-arm mount to 16mm, to take the '82 GS1100E aluminum arm.

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Dropped the oil pan for a look, just a thin layer of grime.

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Stripped the tank.

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So I'm ready to take the frame & tank to the powder coat dudes this week.

I was quite surprised how much light rust I found under what looked to me to be good paint, in four five random locations.

This week I'm working on the loom replacing all the bullet connections with insulated quick connects.
 
It came off in my hands, honest.....

Can I glue it back in there? What sort of glue?

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On another note, I dropped off the frame and tank with the powder coat dudes today. Dumped a ton of cash at Z1 for a pile of goodies. The build begins in 3 weeks.
 
I'm pretty sure it's just a press fit. I had the same issue, and gravity has held it in place since then (yes, I checked).
 
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