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78 US import in the UK R/R Quiz

  • Thread starter Thread starter Turbell
  • Start date Start date
Turbell said:
You've lost me .....? direct battery connection without modification?
I understand the not using the connectors as this makes the unit longer and harder to mount so I will forget them and just go with spades.
The Italian ebay units look good and also there is no import duty so they are now favourite, thanks.
New front tyre came today as well as headbearings , waiting on pads , so I think I have spent up for this month!
Click to expand...

If you follow the connection instructions in GS Charging Health then you would not use the harness provided by RoadsterCycle; It connects direct to the battery.
 
Sorry it was only the connectors I was thinking of buying, not the loom, now I have decided to go with the SH775, I will have to wait until I have got paid and see what has to go out and whats left for toys.....this wasn't in the budget, but I think its important enough to spend the extra for piece of mind.
 
Right, Gs back in one piece just about everything sorted just charging system to rectify ( no pun intended! )

If Mr Posplayr would be so kind as to cast his eye other these, I think it's fair to say I'm looking at a complete overhaul......

Basic test results...

Bench charged battery, fitted to bike and left 24hrs = 12.7V

Lights and Ign on = 11.8

Idle = 13.1

2.5k = 15.2

5k = 15.3

Everything off = 13.4v but 12.8v after ten minutes

Stator checks...

Between legs 0.9ohms apart from one 0.8ohms

leg to ground all open circuit

Between legs at 5k all combos 80v Ac

leg to ground all combos nearly 40v Ac

I had a big drop from batt voltage to the headlight loom of nearly a volt which I traced to the main fuse holder, and after that I went round and acid dipped all the connectors and washed/switch cleaned/WD40/petroleum jellied them all.
I have also ditched the headlight swith third leg and made a common ground.
The rectifier is open all ways and the battery is bubbling after the above basic test running time, i.e no more than 5-10 mins.
So I think it is safe to assume it's all trashed!
Partzilla is listing the SH775 on ebay and ships to the UK, you have to pay about $45 extra in charges and posting so that's not too bad, but I am not sure what to do with the stator a DIY rewind is attractive but if I can buy a known and recommended than I will probably go that way.

Any comments or advice gratefully needed.

Ryan
 
Your stator looks good, but your battery has been tortured, so there's too much drop with just lights and ignition on.
 
Ryan reading your numbers you are charging . But I also suspect you have original equipment r/r as it is over charging 0.75 v but within oem tolerances. For modern electronics like s775 it would be too high.

Yes the leg to ground tests indicate problem; either you did the measurement wrong or the stator is grounded at the neutral of a wye winding. You are the second person in ax many weeks that had the same measurement. I will need to think a bit more on it. Since your DC leg to leg tests show open one would tend go think as per design the stator is not grounded. However it is possible for the stator to be grounded at the center of the wye and still operate perfectly well. So the only question is why is it shorting at all?
 
Thanks for answers, but why is rectifier open all ways, I thought I should be seeing resistance between the legs, think I need to re read the checks for the rectifier and do the tests for that again.
R/R is OE with separate reg unit.
Am I safe to go with a Sh775 with my stator?
 
Your running test with 40 ac from stator leg to ground indicates that one of the stator windings or their common connection is not insulated adequately. Don't forget this is a no load test, when stator actually produces current, there are magnetic forces tugging on wires, plus the stator runs really hot- more current could be diverted to ground leading to more heat buildup. The SH-775 probably wouldn't be hurt by this situation, but it won't be doing its intended job since it can't "control" any ground leakage internal to stator.
I ran my previous stator (with a shunt r/r) for about 25 hours in this condition. It produced enough juice to keep my battery at 13.5 volts but was clearly suffering.
 
Grimly said:
I'm 90% sure that's a fake.
Click to expand...


Why? Are there alot of fakes out there? It is painted different but is it really worth painting a SHUNT R/R and calling it a SH-775?

He is not showing the numbers but he does have 100% positive reviews although it is not in a language I understand.
 
posplayr said:
Why? Are there alot of fakes out there? It is painted different but is it really worth painting a SHUNT R/R and calling it a SH-775?

He is not showing the numbers but he does have 100% positive reviews although it is not in a language I understand.
Click to expand...
Well, there are many sellers that attempt to pass them (MOSFET) off as series, by quoting the Polaris number, but this fly sod has taken it further by actually putting the SH-775 number on the end - the second link shows it. Only thing is, the typeface, and the lack of a Shindengen logo, or the other designators on the end, make it look like a screaming fake to me.
Why, it's almost as if some of these crafty sods read my observations on the matter and have tried to paint on some signage that would take in those who know no better. It would be a couple of years down the road before the stator gave up and the seller has your money, so he doesn't care, and best of luck trying to prove anything. These people aren't stupid (well, they are).

And for being worth it? Yes, if he's buying them in for a few bucks each.
 
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Grimly said:
Well, there are many sellers that attempt to pass them (MOSFET) off as series, by quoting the Polaris number, but this fly sod has taken it further by actually putting the SH-775 number on the end - the second link shows it. Only thing is, the typeface, and the lack of a Shindengen logo, or the other designators on the end, make it look like a screaming fake to me.
Why, it's almost as if some of these crafty sods read my observations on the matter and have tried to paint on some signage that would take in those who know no better. It would be a couple of years down the road before the stator gave up and the seller has your money, so he doesn't care, and best of luck trying to prove anything. These people aren't stupid (well, they are).

And for being worth it? Yes, if he's buying them in for a few bucks each.
Click to expand...
Your probably correct. If we have been getting the word on on the MOSFET and SHUNTs then perhaps they can't give them away. But I know there are other seller continuing to push them

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html

Given that R/R is painted makes it real suspicious.
 
Grimly said:
Well, there are many sellers that attempt to pass them (MOSFET) off as series, by quoting the Polaris number, but this fly sod has taken it further by actually putting the SH-775 number on the end - the second link shows it. Only thing is, the typeface, and the lack of a Shindengen logo, or the other designators on the end, make it look like a screaming fake to me.
Why, it's almost as if some of these crafty sods read my observations on the matter and have tried to paint on some signage that would take in those who know no better. It would be a couple of years down the road before the stator gave up and the seller has your money, so he doesn't care, and best of luck trying to prove anything. These people aren't stupid (well, they are).

And for being worth it? Yes, if he's buying them in for a few bucks each.
Click to expand...

I asked the Seller:

Dear dacarmotonapoli-2013,

? questo un Shindingen Sh- 775 ?
- posplayr
Click to expand...
This is the answer from the Seller.

Dear posplayr,

NO Shindingen
GOOD QUALITY
CORDIALI SALUTIDA PARTE DELLO STAFF DI DACARMOTOFIRMATO VINCENZO CARBONE
Click to expand...
 
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Ordered SH775 from Partzilla ?87 inc shipping and all duty, Electrosport stator ?88 from UK
Other than the three stator legs direct to the R/R is everything else just wired OE to start with, the R/R live goes into the loom unfused, but the loom is then fed from the starter solenoid fused,.....I know there is mention of adding relays and fusing individual circuits and of course the SSPB looks a worthwhile mod, but I want to walk before I can run, I have of course done the SPG.
Thanks in advance, Ryan
 
New Electrosport stator fitted, SH775 mounted under battery box on original regulator mounts ( just cut the spot welded plate in the middle that is raised and it will just splay out enough for you to bolt the SH direct, should get a little airflow, but if i'm honest a bit low and near to the rear wheel/possible weather if it was an all weather daily ride) also ditched the inline glass fuse and soldered in a new blade type.
All other connections twisted, soldered and heatshrunk and of course SPG on the original R/R mounting point.




New quick test results
Static ( charged batt) = 12.7
Ign and lights on = 11.9
idle= 12.7
2.5k=13.3
5k=13.4
rest=12.7
Looking at them I would guess the battery has lost its capacity, it's had a hard time as its been sat for long periods unused by the PO and when it has been run it was over frying it.
But it starts well, nice bright lights no warm connections, so I think I am safe to venture out on it and try shake the rest of the bike down, assuming I will do no damage to my new charging system with a borderline battery?
 
If you have a new stator and r/r and been attentive to the wiring the results are surprising. Sure the battery is a little low but not enough to account for 1.0v deficit at full rpm. I would go to the phase a tests snd measure voltage drops at 5000 rpm and go from there. If they are big fixed , if not looks closer at the stator
 
SH 775 from Polaris dealer here in UK price ?80 inc of postage but they say they cannot supply the plugs as they are attached to the harness they say.
 
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