79' 1000S self cancelling bypass mod

[rustybronco]

I know you weren't being derogatory Chuck.

Just to re-iterate a point. Mr Robert Barr has a working picaxe solution. Wallogreen has a ?P based version as well. Norm K posted up a workaround for these as did Cal-Zero, myself, and a few others. There are solutions out there already.

Any who, I just finished boxing up two of the TSCU's and they'll be in today's post.

 

[chuck hahn]

And if Duaneage needs a speedo , I have set of like new guages I can put on lend so he can hook one up to a drill and use the reed switch to simulate the actual spinning like when riding.

I will PM him to ask if that will be of use to him as well.

 

[posplayr]

I know you weren't being derogatory Chuck.

Just to re-iterate a point. Mr Robert Barr has a working picaxe solution. Wallogreen has a ?P based version as well. Norm K posted up a workaround for these as did Cal-Zero, myself, and a few others. There are solutions out there already.

Any who, I just finished boxing up two of the TSCU's and they'll be in today's post.

Yes this is not rocket science, and there are reasons why even people that already have done it don't offer their solutions to the rest of the board. While , can't speak for everybody, based on my own experience, I will guess here it is not worth the expense, effort , trouble and thanklessness to offer the results of their efforts. It is not worth these costs because there is just NO demand in terms of Unit price and volume.

Observing the plight here, and in a weak moment, I offered a proposal to produce 10 DIY units as a "bridge" proposal between what had already been accomplished with the objective of getting people something they could use and integrate without having to build from scratch. My other objective was to not loose any money on something I did not even need or want as well as avoid having another draw down on my available time doing installs and customer support. Even that proposal did not generate ANY interest although it did draw animosity and thinly veiled assertions of profiteering. That abuse wore my generosity thin and I have with drawn the offer.

I am however glad that the group is attempting to find a solution, and I had bowed out of this threat to let the inevitable take it's course.At this point Duanage has proclaimed he will deliver a solution, time will tell. I doubt it as I don't think he is qualified to do anything other than muck with an old one and figure out how to make it work again. But the problem with that is the mechanics of removing all of the potting.

You best solution would be to go begging to one of the people that have already done this and try and secure one of their solutions to see if you can even reproduce what they have done. That is the bigger issue for people, despite Duanage's boasting (of finding a solution) something that he has quietly chosen to ignore.

In summary, this is a joint learning experience for the people participating in this thread. You will get a better idea of what it takes to do design and produce something and probably have a greater sense of amazement (as I do) at how China can produce such a spectrum of electronics products at low cost than even the cost of parts that can be purchased here.

 

[posplayr]

Jim, I just noticed the patent you referenced in your above post#56 used distance to cancel the signals. The ones used on the Suzuki's 1st gen TSCU's used a set amount of time.



You had me all giddy over seeing that schematic you attached, until I read the details.

Darn...

If you think somebody is being derogatory look no further than thyself. It is coming through load and clear to me. :|


But now to worry feeding back to your just makes me "giddy" all over.

I'm done with this thread as I was a week or so ago, you called me back.

 

[chuck hahn]

Jim...I can only speak for myself and seeing I have classic bikes that are rather unique in that the 78 1000E was made that way for only 1 year and the Cooley is in the same catagory, I personally dont want something that cant fit in an original case and look absolutely correct.

Can I cut a harness and wire in two relays so at least they will make both signals blink..yup. But thats not the intended outcome here. Least its not for me.

Its about period correct RESTORATION and not bypassing or hacking into it "just to make it work"..that wont cut it.

 

[rustybronco]

Jim, good luck in whatever you do.

 

[posplayr]

Jim...I can only speak for myself and seeing I have classic bikes that are rather unique in that the 78 1000E was made that way for only 1 year and the Cooley is in the same catagory, I personally dont want something that cant fit in an original case and look absolutely correct.

Can I cut a harness and wire in two relays so at least they will make both signals blink..yup. But thats not the intended outcome here. Least its not for me.

Its about period correct RESTORATION and not bypassing or hacking into it "just to make it work"..that wont cut it.

Chuck,
If you look at this auction you will see basically what amounts to my former plan. This device costs a trivial amount because it is coming from China, but something very similar could also be produced. It is a mini PCB that has wires soldered to it and shrink tubing shrunk onto it. The total length of the white shrink tubing is 2" and the width is 0.5". It is 0.25" thick.

You will note this is a complete PWM LED light controller with different light speed and flash modes. The TCSU is not more complicated that this device is executing.

There is enough volume in that OEM package to bore a small cavity on the unseen interior and epoxy something like this in. The wire connections would come right from the existing harness leads or the solder balls that already exist.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121279981184?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The board is one thing the handwork to install is something else.

If you want an Authentic reproduction of teh original circuit, then you will have to go the route that Kokar did for the 550 Ignitor, copy the original design with mostly he same design but some selected new parts and produce a circuit board for it that will cost several times as much to to mention the difficulty if not impossibility of cleaning out all the potting material in order to replace the full PCB..

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=182719


There is no point to any of that unless you are working for a museum.

 

[chuck hahn]

Im not working for a museum, but i got some nice bikes and I want them as they were from day one. I think its only appropriate to do so.

 

[posplayr]

Im not working for a museum, but i got some nice bikes and I want them as they were from day one. I think its only appropriate to do so.

Chuck,
I give up as I really have no idea what you are looking for and so forget my other recommendations except this last one, you should probably go get the OEM modules for $300 plus before they run out. It sounds like the onyl thing that will satisfy your requirements.
Jim

 

[chuck hahn]

Jim...Here was the orignal goal that was talked about at least a year ago.

Take an old one and get it unpotted so the components and pathways could be found and reproduce a board with modern stuff that would mimick the original design,,but be more reliable. And make the new component the same size to be stuffed into an OEM case..thus fixing the reason they fail and keep it looking like factory TSCUs.

 

[posplayr]

Jim...Here was the orignal goal that was talked about at least a year ago.

Take an old one and get it unpotted so the components and pathways could be found and reproduce a board with modern stuff that would mimick the original design,,but be more reliable. And make the new component the same size to be stuffed into an OEM case..thus fixing the reason they fail and keep it looking like factory TSCUs.

From all the discussion, I had concluded that attempting to extract a PCB that was epoxied into a original case was not practical without destroying that original case.

If you think that is still possible solve that problem first. The electronics would be easy after that.

However, mimicking and original design with modern stuff on the original sized PCB is an oxymoron.

 

[chuck hahn]

I should have said this then...figure out whats the weak link in the original design and get that rectified...THEN build the new board to the rest of the design. Better?

I have taken them out from the original case without destroying them.. Takes a lot of patience and a flat putty knife to drive in between the plastic and the epoxy stuff that its potted with..but it can be done.

 

[posplayr]

I should have said this then...figure out whats the weak link in the original design and get that rectified...THEN build the new board to the rest of the design. Better?

I have taken them out from the original case without destroying them.. Takes a lot of patience and a flat putty knife to drive in between the plastic and the epoxy stuff that its potted with..but it can be done.

It is probably solder break, and Duanage probably has a good chance of finding that.

 

[rustybronco]

I have taken them out from the original case without destroying them.. Takes a lot of patience and a flat putty knife to drive in between the plastic and the epoxy stuff that its potted with..but it can be done.

Chuck just to be certain on what you are saying. By driving a putty knife between housing material you were able to separate the board, potting material and harness, without damaging the plastic housing? Or did you destroy the plastic housing just to remove the innards?

 

[rustybronco]

Bump......

 

[Guest]

Bump......

Dale,
With all the "drama" here, aren't you glad I just gave you one that works!

 

[rustybronco]

Steve, why yes I am glad!

I've already sent Duane two of your old units for his perusal. Hopefully they'll arrive at his place today.

PM coming your way...

 

[chuck hahn]

Answered your PM dale.