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79 GS 550L Kukosan Points

  • Thread starter Thread starter byrdman76
  • Start date Start date
B

byrdman76

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Whats up guy's its been a while since I posted here but I am looking for some answers and you guys have always been my best bet

First off I have a 79 550L with the Kukosan points. The prices to replace this stuff is rediculous - denso equivalent is like a third of the cost. So im trying to see what options i have.

Can you switch the kuk points, condensors, and backplate out for the denso items? Is it worth it or would i be better off going the dyna route if possible.

Can you use the typical dyna 3 ignition on this bike? I have seen the dyna 2000 listed but its over 300 bones and not in my budget. the dyna 3's are on ebay for fess than 150.

Can I run 3ohm coils or do I have to keep with the 2.2ohm?

Is it better to run the 3.0 ohm coils with the dyna ignition vs the 2.2?

I have seen several coils on ebay, even a few late model bandit coils that look like they would work but the resistance wasnt listed. Is this possible and if so what other coils will work on these bikes.

The bike runs great going down the road but im always tweaking the ignition to get the motor from reving up when at idle. Most of the time its ok but at any time the idle speed will jump up to 3000 grand and stay there until I realease the clutch a little while in gear to settle it back down. I think its advancing some how on its own since the airbox, carbs, intake boots, valves, and head seem to be 100% straight - no intake leaks that I can find with accelerants. The set up on this ignition is pretty straight forward other than I have never been able to find out which direction that you are supposed to rotate the back plate once you have set the gap on the points. Most instructions just say rotate the entire assembly until the light flikers out - which way are you suposed to rotate it?

The coils measure out fine but if im going to replace the ignition i feel that i might as well swap out the coils and wires since they look like there the originals.

As always thanks in advance...
 
Also...

Also...

Can you hook a timing light up to this bike and check the timing once the bike running in order to fine tune it. I guess this would elimintae the possibity of me not manually setting it correctly even though the bike will run.

Whats the best way to test the Kuk condensors?
 
more info...

more info...

I was able to set the timing last night with a timing light. I set 1 & 4 and then 2 & 3. It actually was easier than I thought it would be. The timing was advanced at idle by about a 1/16th of an inch on both sides.

I rode the bike into work today and it actually ran smoother at the higher RPM's 4500-5000 seemed alot smoother. The motor will still rev every once in awhile at stop lights. Not everytime but it is still happening intermittenly.

I have done the following to the bike:

cremed the tank
cleaned up petcock
replaced fuel lines and filter
replaced fuel cap
dissassembled the carbs and cleaned (didnt dip them but every passage was flushed with carb cleaner and blown out with compressed air) set the float height on each carb, checked for leaking floats. I left the fuel pilot screws alone but made sure that they were not protruding through the holes in the side of the carb wall - also made sure that carb cleaner and air would exit the holes for the idle circuit. I replaced o-rings in the carbs as needed and bench sync'd the carbs before i reinstalled them.
replaced intake boot o-rings
cleaned and oiled air filter
checked and corrected valve lash
ohmed out the coils
adjusted RPM using highest rpm method on air screws
spark plugs are new and have been gapped and look pretty good.

I havent been able to hook up my merc sticks yet since there at a friends house and he is out of town. Could not syncronizing the carbs be causing the intermitten increase in idle?

I am starting to believe that the ignition is pretty solid especially after last night. even after riding the bike for a few miles the ignition was still dead on when I got back and threw the timing light on it.

Is there anything wrong with using a timing light to set a points style ignition? I see alot of guys speak of dwell but i think that is mostly pertaining to the point gap. Am I correct here?

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 
Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions????

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions????

Im kind of running out of ideas here...[-o<
 
Don't feel hated or anything, it just seems that nobody has any good info to offer on your problem. 8-[
 
I wish I could offer advice on the coils, but I have never taken that path.
I can say that using a timing light is absolutely the way to go.
 
Make sure you have enough freeplay in the throdle cable. Dyna III is the way to go for ign if you want to do away with the points. Personally the points work fine still using them on my 850 Timing light is the best way to set the timing
 
I knew someone would help me!

I knew someone would help me!

Thanks for the responses! :-D

I was hoping it was ok to use a timing light - it is alot easier than trying to set it with a test light.

Any ideas as to what may be causing the engine to rev up at idle periodically? What have most GS owners found that would cause such a thing.

The cable slack is about a 1/2" of throttle twist - if this is wrong please tell me what is correct.

Is the motor revving up on its own always from an intake leak? It usally happens when the bike is getting hot like when Ive ridden for 10 miles or more. Could the carbs somehow be causing this issue? Valves maybe being out of adjustment (I checked them on a cold motor and adjusted them as needed) Head gasket maybe - whats the best way to check for a head gasket leak?

Can you spray water on the motor to check for intake leaks? If not what is the best thing to use that is somewhat cleaner than WD-40, and less harsh than carb cleaner.


Thanks again for the help.
 
The throttle cable slack sounds fine.
A leaky head gasket would have consistent results, that is, it would always leak. I would rule that out for the moment. A compression check, BTW, would easily verify this.
You have adjusted the valves, which is a good thing.
Let's assume that there is not an ignition genie mucking with the timing after it warms up (fairly safe assumption).
That leaves the carbs. I suspect you are on the right track. As far as cleanliness, I would go with the WD-40 and then use a degreaser to clean up the mess afterwards.
 
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