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79 GS1000 - sudden loss of power & backfire

  • Thread starter Thread starter whiteboyslo
  • Start date Start date
ok, i'll start looking into the ignition system. i suppose the quick and easy thing to do would be to check out the points/condenser and eliminate that first. cheaper anyways.

also, i got a little confused on all the lines underneath the tank last night. i have one vacuum hose that was hooked up to the petcock. it runs down to the carbs right next to the fuel line. i also have (2) hoses just hanging off the carbs, one on each side. do these get hooked up to anything?

Mike
 
Two hoses you refer to are breathers and don't get hooked up to anything

Great thread here, I am in similar waters. Hang in there - the guys on this board are your saving grace. Once you figure this out the satisfaction is immeasureable and will put a perma-grin on for days.
 
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ok. thanks!

i may hold off on doing much more to the bike right now. i have an appt to have the bike looked over by the head mechanic of a local dealership who does work on the side in his house. i may have him tear down the carbs and rebuild them because i'm not comfortable with doing that. hopefully he can help me narrow down this problem as well.

i'm just stoked the compression test came back so well!

Mike
 
I just rebuilt carbs on my gs850.

DONT BE AFRAID to try this yourself!! it really isn't bad and it's fun to boot!!

The carb rebuild section on this board is the ticket - with that and the forum you don't need anything else save patience and courage.

You can do it man. Best way to learn.

Worst thing you can do is wreck the damn philips screws (or jets themselves but not as likely). A pro can do the same depending how bad they are jammed. Impact driver saves the day (ask me how I know)

I cleaned my carbs for about $65 including cleaner, new o-rings, and new socket-head screws to replace the philips. Other guys have done it for much less.

"Only thing to fear is fear itself" no kidding.

HAVING said this, please get advice from other more experienced members to confirm that you should in fact strip and dip the carbs. I don't want to point you in wrong direction if other probs exist (i.e. ignition). It sounds like you may have other gremlins to sort out before carbs. I just want to point out that you can do it yourself with confidence.
 
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well, from my readings, this is something that probably should be done on any bike after a while, especially if it's been sitting.

the previous owner got this bike up and running after several years of isolation, but he admitted he hadn't touched the carbs yet. even if it doesn't 'solve my problem,' it's probably a good idea.

i wouldn't mind doing it myself, but i'd rather watch someone do it once who knew what he was doing.

and yes, i bought an impact screwdriver last night. already stripped out one screw. won't make that mistake again!

Mike
 
i think it's the points on the 1-4 side. they don't look too good. ordering up new ones, and a condenser for good measure.

to clarify, i opened up the ignition side and checked out the points on 1/4. they looked clean and somewhat new, but since that bike never sees any outside environment or engine oil, looks can be deceiving. the contacts on the point aren't lined up with one another. you can see the mark the one is leaving on the other when it smacks it off-center. the magnet that rides on the hoodily-doo in the center is not all that worn, but what's really wierd is after i took the thing off, i could NOT get the damn magnet to ride perfectly flush on it once i tightened down the holding screw. it just won't happen, unless my point gap is supposed to be 1/4"!! looking at the backplate of the points, i think it's bent. did i do it? i dunno, but it needs replaced.

it's a start, and would explain why 1 & 4 look fouled while 2 & 3 look OK.

so, points, condensers, and go from there. maybe a coil, but i'll check 'em first by pulling the old switcharoo.

Mike
 
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back from the dead, in more ways than one!

so the bike and i spent some quality time together tonight. i started out by giving her a nice oil change. i used Valvoline 4-stroke Motorcycle 10W40 and an OEM Suzuki filter. good? oh, and i also replaced the drain plug with a magnetic one.

then i got to the good stuff. first up was the ignition work. i replaced the condenser and points for 1&4. i followed the procedure exactly as described for the Clymer's manual. went to fire her, and she didn't even try to fire. hmmmm.....

upon further investigation, the points for the 2-3 side didn't seem to be moving at all. perhaps i moved them the other day when i tore it all down? dunno. but no biggie. i had already bought new points for that as well, but felt i didn't want to tempt fate by doing more than necessary.

so, in went the 2-3 points per the Clymer's. still nothing. i hooked up the timing light, and i was definetely getting spark to the wires on all cylinders.

discouraged, i took apart my hack job of a fuel line/filter switch from the other day with some brand new 5/16" hose (no filter). she fired on the first try! i dialed in the timing (again, per Clymer's) and revved her up a bit. the hesitation is gone, and no pop.

a quick ride around the block says she's pretty much back to what i remembered. i have a new fuel petcock coming, as well as a fuel filter and other knickknacks. i hope to have her on the road by the weekend in time to do some riding with the folks.

thanks to all for the help! this definetely was a rollercoaster ride, but i'm glad i stuck it out.

Mike
 
Glad you have it running better. Fuel filters are nothing but trouble.
I still wonder why the dark plugs at 1 and 4 though.
 
i'm thinking it was from the crappy points for those cylinders. not sure, though.

the laundry list of stuff that needs done on this bike is quite long. next up is new front brakes (pads ordered this morning), a noisy clutch, and fixing the oil leak around the tach cable (which should be an easy job, but the screw holding it to the block is stripped. go me). then there's the cosmetic issues.......

Mike
 
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