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79 GS1000 with CV carbs is this correct

  • Thread starter Thread starter bomber737
  • Start date Start date
B

bomber737

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I just started cleaning the carbs from my stock 79 GS1000 and all the parts diagrams I can find for a 79 show mechanical carbs. The ones that came from my bike are CV carbs. Did Suzuki put CV's on this year? What are the chances someone put different set of carbs on my bike? Did Suzuki change the carbs late in the model year to CV's. I am also looking for a rebuild kit for them. The vacuum needle has 5050 stamped on it and they look thick and not much taper. The main jet I pulled from them are 107's and the slow jet are 40's. Are these the correct jets for this bike? None of the rebuild kits have this main jet in the kit. The ones I have been looking at are for a 80 or 81, those parts match what I have.
 
Pretty sure those are the wrong carbs. I'm not an expert, but I did just do the carbs on my '79 1000. They were VM26's I think. No reason those won't work though, if they're the right size. You'll just need some help sorting them out. You've come to the right place. Just wait and someone will be along soon to help. Or fix you up with a set of the right carbs.
 
The change to CV was in 80.What is the date of manufacture?Past Sept or so it's a 80.
 
Either way, you do not need to buy "rebuild kits". 99% of the time all you need is a new set of O-rings, and new bowl gaskets. The o-rings can be found at cycleorings.com it's a full set of every o-ring you need exept the manifold to head o-rings that almost always need to be replaced as these are a major cause of air intake leaks. (the boots between the carbs and the head) you will need to order those too when you get the orings for your carbs.

Click the link in my Sig for a whole world of info including the carb tutorials you will need. Take no shortcuts, trust me on this.
 
Do us a favor in order to help you out. Look at the manufacture date (it'll be on a label on the steering neck behind and in-between the triple clamp) and tell us what it says. Or simply take a pic of your bike. If was built after august or September it's likely an '80 model that's been mis-titled as a '79.
 
Or another way to tell is to pull the ignition cover (small round cover on the right side of the engine) if it's got points, it a '79. If it doesn't, it's an 80
 
Above comments relate to a US spec bike.
 
Yes Ed is right(as usual).Surprising differences between US and Canadian bikes at times.
 
TheCafeKid said:
Do us a favor in order to help you out. Look at the manufacture date (it'll be on a label on the steering neck behind and in-between the triple clamp) and tell us what it says. Or simply take a pic of your bike. If was built after august or September it's likely an '80 model that's been mis-titled as a '79.
Click to expand...

This '79 GS1000EN has a manufacture date of August '78 on the frame steering neck sticker, a month or two older and it would be a Skunk.
100_1269.jpg
 
Whats that site with engine numbers..ozebook or something like that. wouldnt the engine number tell the year perameters???
 
Hi,

chuck hahn said:
Whats that site with engine numbers..ozebook or something like that. wouldnt the engine number tell the year perameters???
Click to expand...

Included in the "mega-welcome":

Suzuki Engine and Frame Numbers
http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/engine-nos/engnos.htm


Hey there Mr. bomber737, have a look at your other thread for lots more information. Welcome to the GSR.

As others have said, if it was built in late '79 it could actually be an '80 model. There can be slight differences between models shipped to countries other than the U.S.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks to all for responding. The side covers have the GS1000E badges on them just like the picture of the bike below. They look identical except mine is blue. I will post a picture of it on the day I brought it home. I am just getting done with a 2 day carb dip soak and an hour in my ultrasonic parts cleaner. So with the jetting difference mentioned I am going to figure it is a 80 E model with the smaller jets and electronic ignition. I know it has that. I don't think the intake boots have ever been replaced and they are still quite pliable and there is no cracking. I have a lot of experience with crappy leaky carb boots with my XJ750 Seca. I have a huge set of o-rings and I am already replacing them as I get the carbs put back together. I will go look at the neck today and post whats there tomorrow. Havin trouble attaching a picture.
 
You ARE replacing the intake manifold O-rings and bolts too, right?

Daniel
 
Ok Ill try that. I was hoping to not have to pull the boots. I am really leary of having the screws shear off and having to pull the head. I thought I would clean the carbs and put them back on without the air filter in place and see it it runs first. Prob spray carb cleaner around the intake side of the boots and see if it changes the way the bike runs. I am hoping they are still sealed and if they are not I can change the o ring out then. It will be just a matter of pulling the carbs again. like I said, the boots are not cracked and are still pliable. That is unless the concensus her is that I wont shear those screws. This is my first Suzuki, I just know what has happened with a bunch of the Yamaha's I have done in the past.
 
I'd do the oring on the boots now, while the carbs are off. For one, it will eliminate and issues you could end up looking for once ya get it all put back together.
For two, pulling the carbs suck.

The intake boots are indeed prone the bust lose. I like to hit em with PB Blaster several times a day for about a week before I even think about removing em.(I treat carb bolts and containing parts in the carbs the same way)
A good impact screw driver is a must. If ya dont have one, get one. A couple of assorted sized extensions might be required as well. Once ya get one screw out per intake you can rotate the intake to losen the other one.

You'll be glad you did it.
One of those "while you're there" kinda things.
Lots of that goes on with these bikes
 
With the airbox and carbs out of the way you should have enough room to use an impact driver. Lots of peole say to use some penetarting oil too. Ive never used anything except a rap or two with the impact and they screw right out. I would replace the old phillips head ones with allen heads too. Much easier to get a good snug torque when putting them back on...or if you need to take them off again in the future.
 
bomber737 said:
I thought I would clean the carbs and put them back on without the air filter in place and see it it runs first. Prob spray carb cleaner around the intake side of the boots and see if it changes the way the bike runs. I am hoping they are still sealed and if they are not I can change the o ring out then.
Click to expand...


You are following the trail of newbie mistakes...

Best read this... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=171846
 
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