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79 GS1000 with CV carbs is this correct

  • Thread starter Thread starter bomber737
  • Start date Start date
Change the intake boot o-rings. They're just as apt to break off later as they are now.
 
FLHGSRay said:
Change the intake boot o-rings. They're just as apt to break off later as they are now.
Click to expand...

I agree. The trick to getting the screws out is to use a drift punch. Place the punch on the side of the screw head and give it a couple raps with a hammer. The issue is the head of the screw binding to the surface of the boot flange.

You might also want to invest in a set of Japanese Phillips drivers as well since none of the screws on these bikes are SAE. SAE drivers will just round out the screws.
 
:-\\\
blowerbike said:
you have to use a #3 Phillips ladies.
#2 just f*cks em up.;)
Click to expand...

What he said and if you remove the airbox, battery, rear wheel and pop out the inner plastic fender you can get at them with an impact driver and extension. It's easy.:-\\\
 
#3 bit/extension/racket/air racket if you have it.
shock em with a hammer against the extension/bit helps.
some times you just have to spin them out with a chisel....
its not like they have been in the same place for 30 years un-touched:rolleyes:
 
3 SAE Phillips will round them out. They are jis pitch heads. A 3 on an impact works most of the time, but still damages the screw. But if you think it doesn't make a difference, ...cause tearing the whole back of the bike apart to get at eight screws just sounds like fun. ..;)

The way I suggested earlier in the thread has worked well on eight or ten bikes I have had to do this with.
 
keman said:
I agree. The trick to getting the screws out is to use a drift punch. Place the punch on the side of the screw head and give it a couple raps with a hammer.
Click to expand...

I did this once on the tach drive screw on my Z1 and knocked a big hole in the head casting. Talk about a sick feeling. I had done it a hundred times before and have done it a few times since, but I do everything to avoid it now. Knocked a half-dollar size hole in it by the front cam and the tach drive and screw fell out on the floor. Bummer.
 
20+ years here on GS's..
plus a bucket of perfect phillips from engines i have busted apart.
the screws getting messed up are from the people using #2's on them.
anyways....people can do what they want as i don't get paid for information.:twistedevil:
 
Hi,

Might I suggest re-reading the "mega-welcome" and all of the information contained in the links therein? It could save you a TON of frustration. ;)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Well there you have it, I will be replacing the intake o-rings. Now to just get them off. I found a vise grip on the screw heads worked on the carb rack. I was also successful at getting them on of a GS850 I got running for a friend. I will be definitely going with new jets and a new air screw. I always replace those parts, it's just easier to start with perfectly clean. The float bowls had sludge in the bottom of them. It was like tar and the rubber stoppers were ruined. Another thing that got ruined was in these carbs there was a wire wrapped around the fuel needle seat. It seemed to hold the fuel needle from coming out of the to far. Can you still get these? I read the what not to do so here goes the refresh. While I have the GS experts looking at my thread, what is the correct float level setting for my carbs?

Thanks to all for your replies.
 
Here is the line to photos of my bike
s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd414/bomber737/Suzuki%20GS1000/
 
That is exactly the one I have and that is exactly what it looks like.
 
bomber737 said:
That is exactly the one I have and that is exactly what it looks like.
Click to expand...

Thought so, notice the CV carbs, new for that year, and if that's exactly what it looks like, you are a one very lucky man. Don't see too many from that year.
 
Thanks, I am really looking forward to getting it on the road. Got it for $40 bucks with 3700 miles. So I just looked at the Suzuki GS series carb specs from a previous post and I can't find my bike listed in there and the ones listed like mine with the 34mm Carbs have different numbers for the main jet, Pilot jet, and jet needle number and pilot air jet. What I have is a 107 main, 40 pilot jet, 5D50 jet needle and a 190 pilot air jet. The main jet could be a 107.5 but I really cant read the number that well due to the degradation in the brass. Any thoughts on this? Someone in a previous post told me that I had the correct ones for these carbs. It's not that I don't believe the post it's just me and my curiosity.
 
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That's when the original owner told me he purchased it, and no I am in the process of getting a title for it right now. The state of MN does not list the bike anymore so bonded title here I come.

IMG00010-20090818-1652.jpg
IMG00010-20090818-1652.jpg
IMG00011-20090818-1652.jpg
 
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bomber737 said:
That's when the original owner told me he purchased it, and no I am in the process of getting a title for it right now. The state of MN does not list the bike anymore so bonded title here I come.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't spend a nickel on it until I was sure I could license it in my name. But, that's just me. I won't buy anything without a title.
 
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